TexasScott Posted June 20, 2011 Report Share Posted June 20, 2011 Hi all,I found this plan online at Wood Magazine and liked it for the fact it had a hidden compartment..The wood I used was Black Walnut and Tiger Maple..I think they go very nicely together..Its complete except for lining the bottom of the box and compartment with Felt..The Walnut inlay runs all the way around the main box..It is a result of a mistake I made trying to put splines in the upper 4 corners..Some how I had 3 splines at the same height on the box and 1 was 1/8" to low ..So this was the only solution I could think of to fix it..In hind site I'm glad I made the mistake as I like the inlay better than the splines..The top tray slides back and forth across the inside of the box and is removable..I finished it with a finish that Marc shows on his finishing CD..I used 1/3 Blo--1/3 Min-wax Gloss Poly--1/3 Mineral spirits...4 coats worth,I like it a lot as its very easy to apply and dries fairly fast... Scott Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PaulMarcel Posted June 20, 2011 Report Share Posted June 20, 2011 Nice recovery on the mistake and I agree it looks better than what I'd imagine it looks like without it. For the felt, you might find it easier to wrap a piece of cardboard with the felt and push it in. Maybe that's what you mean to do; sticking it to the bottom can be problematic and kind of a PITA. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
duckkisser Posted June 21, 2011 Report Share Posted June 21, 2011 very nice i always love boxes. and the miters turned out great i always seem to have a hard time matching mine up exactly. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PaulMarcel Posted June 21, 2011 Report Share Posted June 21, 2011 very nice i always love boxes. and the miters turned out great i always seem to have a hard time matching mine up exactly. hint: large chamfer bit Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
duckkisser Posted June 21, 2011 Report Share Posted June 21, 2011 hint: large chamfer bit i need more then that how to you set it up to you have to use a jig to guide it? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TexasScott Posted June 21, 2011 Author Report Share Posted June 21, 2011 i need more then that how to you set it up to you have to use a jig to guide it? I have never tried using a 45 degree chamfer bit before although I have thought of using one in the past..If I did use one I would make a sled for the router table with a hold down clamp or 2 and machine 1 chamfer on all 4 ends of the boards for your box..I would get within a 1/8" or so then add a stop block to the sled for the final chamfer and length your shooting for on the other end of the board.. Thats just how I would approach it..I will bet Paul-Marcel or someone else here would have a better technique than that,if you do I would like to hear about it.. Thanks for the comments guys,I appreciate it..Also the cardboard idea sounds great for the felt....I will give that a try.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PaulMarcel Posted June 21, 2011 Report Share Posted June 21, 2011 Sorry 'bout the teaser. You'll want a miter gauge or coping sled on the router table. Put the 45º chamfer on the edges. Those 45º edges will be more exact than most TS blade bevels. Give the boards a relief cut first, though, as in cut them at ~45º on the TS a little wider than your final dimensions. That way the chamfer bit is trimming. Also since you are routing end grain, clamp the board to your miter gauge/coping sled just as you would when doing cope-n-stick joints for a panel door. Also like c-n-s routing, have a small backer or you'll blow out a bit. Sounds like more work than it's worth, but it can make for a perfect match. DON'T try it without a miter gauge or coping sled to guide the stock through; it'll whip out of your hand. Exactly, Scott... you posted while I was editing Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
duckkisser Posted June 24, 2011 Report Share Posted June 24, 2011 Sorry 'bout the teaser. You'll want a miter gauge or coping sled on the router table. Put the 45º chamfer on the edges. Those 45º edges will be more exact than most TS blade bevels. Give the boards a relief cut first, though, as in cut them at ~45º on the TS a little wider than your final dimensions. That way the chamfer bit is trimming. Also since you are routing end grain, clamp the board to your miter gauge/coping sled just as you would when doing cope-n-stick joints for a panel door. Also like c-n-s routing, have a small backer or you'll blow out a bit. Sounds like more work than it's worth, but it can make for a perfect match. DON'T try it without a miter gauge or coping sled to guide the stock through; it'll whip out of your hand. Exactly, Scott... you posted while I was editing sounds great guys im going to find a video and give it a try.... i have made over a dozen miters on table saw and miter saw and they just dont cut it not tight enough. going to see if i can make one this weekend. not shure what you mean by a small backer but ill figure it out. im thinking you mean extend the miter gauge with wood so it covers the back of the piece im workin gon. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TexasScott Posted June 24, 2011 Author Report Share Posted June 24, 2011 sounds great guys im going to find a video and give it a try.... i have made over a dozen miters on table saw and miter saw and they just dont cut it not tight enough. going to see if i can make one this weekend. not shure what you mean by a small backer but ill figure it out. im thinking you mean extend the miter gauge with wood so it covers the back of the piece im workin gon. Practice makes perfect.. Yes,use a piece of scrap wood behind the board you are going to put a 45 degree angle on..That way you wont get any chip out since your cutting the end grain.. Scott Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sapele steve Posted August 1, 2011 Report Share Posted August 1, 2011 Scott: Very nice work! For my Jewelery boxes I head over to the local Framing Shop for the felt bottoms. They sell posterboard material that has different colors of feltlike padding already attached. All you have to do is supply the measurements and they cut it to the exact size. Then you can simply insert the pieces into the box draws. I always subtract about 1/8" all around so that the fit is not too tight. You can buy a whole sheet of the posterboard and cut the sections out yourself as it's much cheaper that way. In the end, it looks much better than felt over cardboard and is easier to work with. Just an idea for you to think about............Steve Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TexasScott Posted August 6, 2011 Author Report Share Posted August 6, 2011 Scott: Very nice work! For my Jewelery boxes I head over to the local Framing Shop for the felt bottoms. They sell posterboard material that has different colors of feltlike padding already attached. All you have to do is supply the measurements and they cut it to the exact size. Then you can simply insert the pieces into the box draws. I always subtract about 1/8" all around so that the fit is not too tight. You can buy a whole sheet of the posterboard and cut the sections out yourself as it's much cheaper that way. In the end, it looks much better than felt over cardboard and is easier to work with. Just an idea for you to think about............Steve Thank you for the tip Steve. .I am going to look into that..I will post back on how it worked out.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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