TransTint on light, unfinished chest doesn't take


klasker

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I have an unfinished chest that I want to stain with trans tint and cover with some poly.

However, when trying to get my "recipe" for a combination of amber and orange dye correct I found that my Trans Tint mixture just wouldn't stick onto the 220-grit surface of my test area. This was with 4oz of water and 20 drops of dye.

Looking online, I found that Trans Tint manufacturer says this:

On wood with very pronounced pores like oak and ash, you may notice that the pores do not accept dye and remain light. This is a surface tension phenomenon related to the inherently high surface tension of water.

There are a couple of options in dealing with this.

  • Apply a pigmented stain over the dye
  • Use a paste wood filler to fill and color the pores
  • Seal the wood, then use a colored glaze or stain to color the wood

Now, I'm new to this and I have no idea what type of wood this chest is made from. It's very light. I would guess oak. It was purchased at a unfinished furniture store. So, the first 2 options indicate using some other type of stain. The third option, however, may mean I can use a dewaxed shellac as a sealer first and then add my waterbourne dye solution or does this mean I simply can't use a dye like trans tint on this type of wood?

Thanks for any help!

Kory

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Question...are you spraying or brushing, you may want to try using denatured alcohol as your transfer agent, instead of water. If brushing/wiping the dye, you may want to consider a stain over the dye to help even things out. If you have limited finishing skills, dyes can be tricky...not impossible. Dye's need to be applied wet and fast.

The unfinished furniture store should be most helpful and tell you what kind of wood you have and typically sell dyes and stain for the furniture they sell. Don't be hesitant, contact the store.

Also, when using dyes, its best to make a tish weaker to dial in your color. Each coat of dye will take your darker. So maybe try 2 to 3 coats of the dye?

-Ace-

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I am wiping the dye. I think I have a handle on how to apply it evenly, but can definitely put a layer of stain or by applying multiple coats if it ends up splotchy.

I'll try the alcohol instead of water to see if that helps. Obviously, the alcohol will dry faster leaving me less time to even things out but I'm okay with that. Like you said, apply wet and fast.

Thanks,

Kory

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If the problem really is surface tension, you can eliminate it by adding a few drops of dish washing detergent to the dye.

Ummm...wonder if Transtint supports the dishsoap method? Just me.... but maybe the soap could cause a finishing problem?????

Got thinking on this....since you are wiping...test 50/50 water and denatured alcohol with the Transtint. May give you more open time to wipe.

-Ace-

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