sbarton22 Posted June 12, 2012 Report Share Posted June 12, 2012 What kind of finish would a fella use on this?? Waterlox is my best guess, but this doesn't have a glossy finish. How often do you think one would have to reapply a finish? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sbarton22 Posted June 13, 2012 Author Report Share Posted June 13, 2012 Over 50 views and no one has any ideas? Surprising. Usually, we have all sorts of opinions. I did find out it is mahogany. That surprises me because I would not have selected such an open grain wood for this task... especially since the end grain sits at the drain. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AceHoleInOne Posted June 13, 2012 Report Share Posted June 13, 2012 You want an opinion, here is mine I guess any finish will help afford some degree of protection. The problem with wood counter tops and vanity tops and in this case a sink!!!!!! In general, someone always gets careless with a wet bar of soap or a wash cloth. Prolonged moisture, especially trapped moisture can cause the best finish to break down. As long as you wipe up your spills and dry out the sink every time you use it, you should be ok, but for how long! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sbarton22 Posted June 13, 2012 Author Report Share Posted June 13, 2012 CPES Tropical Hardwood. Been there done that... And? Did you like it? did it break down quickly? Do you recommend it? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sbarton22 Posted June 13, 2012 Author Report Share Posted June 13, 2012 You want an opinion, here is mine I guess any finish will help afford some degree of protection. The problem with wood counter tops and vanity tops and in this case a sink!!!!!! In general, someone always gets careless with a wet bar of soap or a wash cloth. Prolonged moisture, especially trapped moisture can cause the best finish to break down. As long as you wipe up you spills and dry out the sink every time you use it, you should be ok, but for how long! Trapped moisture... good point. I really would like to test this concept out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PaulMarcel Posted June 14, 2012 Report Share Posted June 14, 2012 +1 to hhh's suggestion. I used CPES on a Sapelé vanity top (Mahogany family) and it hasn't shows a bit of trouble despite having more than enough standing water left on it overnight or longer. It's used to waterproof and rot-proof transoms on wooden boats. Search JamestownDistributors.com and you'll find some videos on its application and a whole series on restoring a wooden boat using it. Easy to apply, but it'll pickle your brain if you apply it without a good wind and respirator. On the vanity top, I didn't put any subsequent finish because it looked great once sanded at a fine grit; can feel the grain, too; nothing like 'bartop' 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wdwerker Posted June 14, 2012 Report Share Posted June 14, 2012 Another approach would be to oil it. Easy to scrub a stained or dirty spot and re- oil. The problem with any film finish is eventually it gets a nick ,ding or scratch that allows water underneath. Most bathroom sinks are just for brushing your teeth and hand washing. So it should act much like a cutting board. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sbarton22 Posted June 14, 2012 Author Report Share Posted June 14, 2012 I spoke to the guys at the rot doctor, who make a CPES. They suggested 3 coats of CPES and then apply a SPAR varnish to protect against that very problem of a nick or ding as well as preventing any UV greying of the CPES. Since a couple of you have tried it, does this jive with your experience? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PaulMarcel Posted June 14, 2012 Report Share Posted June 14, 2012 The CPES is like water so it soaks in deep. On the Sapelé vanity I did, pouring it on the top and letting it soak in had some find its way right through to the bottom. That said, it isn't a film finish: it soaks in deep. I've read in the past that after 2 proper coats, the item is considered waterproof, but a third for a sink (fourth?) would be appropriate insurance. The catch for a sink and Mahogany are the pores. The pores aren't filled in the process so they are great pockets for crud to build up in the sink, like soap scum. You'd want to consider filling the pores and top-coating with something like spar varnish mostly to try eliminating the deep recesses. The interesting thing about CPES is the slow cure rate; once you get your last CPES coat on and want to top coat, you do it before the CPES is fully cured and it will bond with the varnish to make it stronger. You might also look at JamestownDistributors for some of the other varnish products they have or call them; they likely have some that is made for the outside of the hull in salt water Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sbarton22 Posted June 14, 2012 Author Report Share Posted June 14, 2012 Jamestown Distributors is a good find. they are competitively priced and the videos are helpful. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dwacker Posted June 14, 2012 Report Share Posted June 14, 2012 Never seen a wooden sink. Are you thinking about building a similar sink? I wouldnt worry to much about the endgrain at the drain. The drain is just a solid tube with the plunger built in. Id probably worry about how to seal the actual glue up. Wonder how you would get a 100% seal on the glue line. Maybe a thick gap filling marine epoxy to glue the thing together? It is a cool sink. Don Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.