steam bending pine?


PA strawbale

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I really should be finish installing the baseboard at the doorways in our house. The walls curve into the door frame with about a 6" radius. The rest of the base board is pine, which is not good for bending, but I tried it anyway and was not successful. Any tips either for bending the pine, or a hardwood that would best match the pine (polyurethane, not painted finish), or a plan C that I haven't come up with?

Two other things I tried-- sawing slots on the backside of the baseboard, 80% through the half inch baseboard, every quarter inch. This bent a lot better, but I haven't found a good way to fill in all slots that are then visible from the top. The other thing I tried was planing the baseboard down to quarter inch, actually planing two pieces down to quarter inch, bending them, which went better than half inch, then sandwiching them together. They did not fit together so well and again it was the problem with the large visible crack between them.

This is not fine woodworking I know....

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I would disagree with you that it is not fine woodwork. Here is what I would do since you have already tried bending both with thin strips and steam bending (I would check your form if you are getting gaps as well as make sure you are bending both pieces at a time.) I would draw a circle that matches the radius of your curve or just scribe the curve of the wall on some scrap ply. Then cut some mitered pieces of pine that are thicker then a half inch. I would go 3/4" after this is complete glue them up and shape with a sander and hand tools till you have desired shape and thickness.

https://www.dropbox.com/sh/6oz3dhldz92mu2a/7dFaXfaXib

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I like Charles' idea.

A similar approach would be to make a bent lamination with several thin pieces of pine to match the curve you need. Whichever seems easier / more enjoyable to you. Also, the grain isn't going to match perfectly in either case, so think about which grain pattern you'd be happier with.

I think Charles' approach will "just work", because you don't have to deal with bending the wood.

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Soft woods don't steam bend well. I have seen jigs that have a thin piece of metal that supports the outside of the curve. This will allow for more compression on the inside of the curve. I also heard that the metal can stain your material if left in contact for an extended amount of time.

I would try bent lamination using 1/8" strips. Take a piece of 3/4" ply to use as a base for your mold. Cut two curves that match your walls and make sure they are wide enough that they wont flex but not too wide for a mess of clamps to grab onto. Rip some spacers to go between your two curves that separate them to the height of your base. Secure your spacers and curves then secure them to your 3/4" base plate. Bend the 1/8" strips around the jig and glue between each layer. Go with a test run to get a clamping strategy and count. You also may need a layer to act a a cawl to evenly distribute pressure and protect your pine from clamp marring. Leave your pieces long and route a matching profile on the router table with a starter pin installed. As far as cutting to length, I would either hand cut or set up a fixture to hold the piece at the miter saw.

Good luck to you and hell yeah its fine woodworking

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