suggestions for sanding pens

[new guy]

Hi,

I just turned my first pen and could use some suggestions on sanding. I have a set of the 9 micro mesh sanding pads.

After turning i sanded with some 180 and then then started using the pads. I got the idea it would be better for the pads if i wet sanded, so i wet the first pad and right away as i move across the bushing, i pick up some black stuff from the bushing and transferred into the open grain on the zebra wood and stained the wood. how do you usually sand these and is it better to use the pads dry? will the heat of sanding hurt the pads?

Thanks 

[JerrySats]

I sand pens to about 4000 depending on the wood . I don't wet sand wood at all , only acrylics .

[adambaum]

Depending on what type of wood and the finish I am going to use determines how much I sand.  I sand open grained woods to a higher grit than close grained woods.  Mainly because I get a better finish that way.  My finish of choice is CA so I generally don't need to sand above 800 or so before applying the CA.  I always apply a bit of Naptha or mineral spirits to the pen before applying a finish to get an idea of how it is going to look.  If it doesn't look glossy enough, I'll sand to a higher grit.  

 

Finally, depending on your method of applying a finish, you may need to sand the finish a bit.  I use the micro mesh pads for sanding the finish.

 

Adam

[sbarton22]

Well, I would say that you should stick to the basic rules of sanding. Start with the smallest grit that you think is required to remove the tool marks. Then progress through the grits without skipping any until you reach the desired effect.

 

One easy approach is to get a turner's set of sandpaper rolls. It has multiple rolls of various grits starting at 180 going up to 600. That's when I apply the finish. Like Adam, I would only use  the MM pads after the finish is cured.

 

I would also offer up that you pick to a regimen of sanding or applying finish and experiment with only one of the two until you are satisfied with consistent results. If you eliminate the variables, you can hone in on the best technique for your taste. If you are messing with too many things, it is harder to fine tune your technique.

 

Good luck!!

[BigE]

Definitely want to wet sand if you are using the micro mesh pads. Otherwise you'll melt them. Also, you'll want to sand to at least 400 grit before starting the micro mesh.

 

My regimen is that I final pass with the skew chisel to give a nicely polished surface, and then I start at either 150 or 220 grit. Then 320, 400. After 400 dry, I switch to 400 wet, and use boiled linseed oil as a lubricant. I go 400, 600, 1000, 1500, 2000. After 2000, I buff dry with a cloth and then apply whatever finish I'm using that day.

 

If I have an open grain wood, at 400 grit I'll apply either thin CA glue or shellac, and sand with 400 grit wet to build up a slurry of the CA glue (or shellac) to fill in the pores.

 

-Steve

[jHop]

I only use paper to sand before applying the finish.  Once the finish is on, then I go for the micro mesh pads.  I've only done them dry, but I have used them on acryllic and those circuit board pens (not exactly acrylic there...)  Those are the only two where I use the micro mesh without a finish.

 

I'd also set the speed of the lathe to middle speed until you get used to the regimen.  (And definitely follow instructions your first couple of times.  Check Woodcraft's online catalogue of instructions; you should find recommended approaches to finishing their products somewhere on the web.  Useful even if you didn't purchase the kit from them.)

[Chris H]

I would second jHop's reccomendations.  My understanding, and it could be wrong, but I think the micromesh is for sanding the finish smooth, not as much for the wood.  I can't imagine much difference between the 1500+ grit and 12,000 grit.  I typically take the wood up to 600 grit, then apply the CA, then Micromesh.  I always use water.  It keeps the pad clean and eliminates heat.  Heat + CA = a lot of swearing. 

 

I use regular sanding pads for the wood of the pens with pretty good results.  You will burn through a lot of paper if you are using standard sand paper.  So if you are planning to produce a reasonable amount of pens +10 or so, I would consider looking into sand paper designed for turning.  You can read up more on the differences, and order here. 

 

I have the 2" pads that I just hold (you can you a power sanding too) but I am stiill on my first set.  I have probably done 40 or so pens using Vince's pads.  I have maybe 8-12 bowls out of the same pads as well, and they aren't showing any signs of wear.  I just knock the dust off, and get right back to it.  When I was using the "Pro" grade paper from Home Depot, I was getting one or two pens per strip (I would cut sheets into 5-6 strips) especially at the finer grits.  The heat from the lathe, even at the slowest speed destroys cheap paper, and even cheap pads. 

[jHop]

One other thing to try is to shut the lathe off between turning and sanding.  (I don't always do this myself, so I'm not saying it's a perfect solution.)  But I have done this once or twice to verify that the object is turning out like I want.  (Sorry, I couldn't resist.) 

 

I check that I didn't skip a small gouge, no chunks, etc.  I also get a chance to wipe down the material with a cloth at a time when the piece will not rip it from my hands or suck me in.  It might help you when you want to avoid getting more stuff from the bushings.  The more experience I get, the less I do this step, so it might be something to do as a set of "training wheels."  It's also a safety factor for me, because I don't know how badly chipped some of my stuff is going to end up, and I hate getting splinters in my typing fingers.  (And since I've gone back to school, those get used a lot more.)

 

Not trying to toot my own horn (or hijack a thread), but I do have one tip for sanding in Highland Woodworking's online magazine.  I'm sure there are far more that are more experienced or better written, so I'd check with them, too.  Here is a link to their "Advanced Search" page for the articles, tips, and more.  Simply type in what you're looking for.  (I won't be gauche enough to link to my tip.)

[tim0625]

JHOP ....too much to search through not knowing the specifics. Mind giving us the link or reposting? After all, it is on subject.

[adambaum]

Ok, shameless plug. I blogged about my quest to make a perfect pen in April. A paragraph or two covers sanding.

http://woodintosawdust.wordpress.com/2013/04/22/my-quest-to-make-the-perfect-pen/

When I talk about sanding with the grain, I should have said that I turn the lathe off and manually rotate the pen after a few pases of sandpaper in the direction of the grain.

Adam

[calblacksmith]

I guess there isn't much to add to what has been said except to say how I do it.

I use a small section of a sanding belt torn into about a 2" x 2" square (used until it is worn out.... which is a long time, they hold up well) in 220 grit. I use it for final easing of the shape while spinning on the lathe. I then stop the lathe and sand with the grain using the same pad, this removes any radial scratches that may be on the body. After this, I remove the body sections from the spindle, then ease the sharp corners on each body section and reinstall on the lathe.

My finish of choice is CA, 4 layers then work through the grits in the micro-mesh pack, sanding wet. When removing from the lathe, ease the corners again as they could be sharp from the finish and assemble the pen.

 

These are what I have with me. Woods used are Cocobolo, Bocote, Carolina Cherry burl, Ebony and curly maple.