What would be the ramifications of building a bench this way?

[ChetlovesMer]

I saw another woodworker’s Roubo bench and the way he did it was to build the
top out of what looked like 10/4 Douglas Fir. Each plank was about 6 inches
high. But what he did was to laminate two planks together, so you end up with a
piece about 6”x4” by however long. He then edge glued 4 of these together. So
you end up with a top that is 24 wide by 4 high by however long.

 

It looked really nice. I believe the reason he did it that
way was to increase the yield from his 10/4 x 6” wide boards. Laying them on
their side, you get to use the entire 6”, instead of cutting off 2” to have a 4”
thick top.

 

So, my question is: What are the ramifications of building a
bench that way? Obviously now the work surface is now the sides of the boards
not the edges. But I was trying to decide if this would cause any issues long
term?  

 

[Bombarde16]

Short answer:  No, it shouldn't make a whit of difference.  If that's the stock you have and face gluing things together is the best way to turn them into a slab for the bench, rock on.

 

That said, I personally wouldn't do this unless it was the stock I had at hand and it was the only way to turn it into a slab for a bench.  Face gluing the boards as you describe introduces another round of gluing and jointing, almost like a cutting board but with the second step rotated 90 degrees.

 

Moreover, if you're using home center Douglas Fir, it doesn't make sense to try for maximum yield out of the boards.  Buy the biggest floor joists you can find (typically 2x12 in 16' lengths) and disassemble as best you can to minimize all the rampant defects in such boards.  Then stand them on edge, glue it once and be done with it.

 

As for the pile of leftover scraps and cutoffs?  Roast a few marshmallows as you ponder the economics of starting with better quality lumber for your next project.

[Eric.]

Ordinarily I wouldn't like that idea since he now has two big flat-sawn slabs (assuming the Doug Fir was flat sawn...which I'm fairly confident it was), and that would mean more potential for movement.  The more quarter sawn you can make your slabs, the more stable they will be.  But in the case of these benches, the slabs are four inches thick.  That's meat.  I'm not 100% sure, but my hunch is that the slabs may keep themselves in check simply due to their sheer mass.  Maybe I'm wrong.  Maybe it will become a giant potato chip eventually.  A Kruncher on steroids.  I doubt it.  And if you have problems in the future, whip out the number seven, or throw them through the planer, if you build the knock-down version.

 

That said, I agree with Rob.  Why use Doug Fir in the first place unless you're really strapped?  Too soft.  I built mine out of soft maple, and I'm kind of wishing now that I would have used HM or Ash.  The SM dents pretty easily.  I have to imagine the Doug Fir will dent if you look at it wrong.

[ChetlovesMer]

I'm not 100% sure he used Douglas Fir.

I didn't get to look at it for long.

I was more distracted by the slabs laying on it's side and I didn't ask about the material.

[CessnaPilotBarry]

Once you get to a certain thickness, some holdfasts don't work as well.

 

http://www.lie-nielsen.com/catalog.php?grp=1546

 

BTW.. Ash is awesome, and in some areas, cheap...

[Barron]

The Doug-fir should work fine. The hold fast might have issues, but just drill the underside with a 1" bit for the first couple of inches, then switch to 3/4" bit to complete the hole. Yes, the bench will collect dings and dents, but so what? It's a work bench and they will all go away when you flatten the top.

[ChetlovesMer]

I appreciate all the advice, guys. That's why I love this forum, everyone's willing to help. But this is NOT my bench. I was just struck by the difference in philosophy the builder employed. It made me think back to Frank Klausz's bench in which the lion's share is basically a large flat sawn slab laid on itside.

 

Yes, you are more likely to get additional dings and dents, but there is a school of thought on workbenches that states the surface of your workbench shouldn't be too hard, because you want bench to dent or ding rather than either the workpiece or (God forbid) the tool.

 

Once again, it looked like Douglas Fiir to me, but I'm not positive. I saw it at the Woodworking Show in Kansas City so maybe somebody else out there saw it too and can lend additional insight. After all, I'm no where near the smartest guy in the world. ... I think that's Marc, right?