What do you use for T&G?

[Nub Thumb]

I need a tongue and groove set-up. weighing my options but wanted to hear from experience. What do you use? Woodies? Old iron? New iron? The Veritas small plow is tempting because of the versatility, but it's expensive. I feel like if I had it, I'd use it for several tasks, so that's a big plus. I've never tried a combination plane, so no idea what I'd be getting into. Guess that's how you get into stuff in the first place. I've got my eye on an OLD set of wooden t&g planes that would be cool to have, even if I didn't use them. Really good price on that. Any thoughts?

[Nub Thumb]

Ps: no idea why I can't make paragraphs from this phone. There are paragraphs when I hit 'post'....

[wdwerker]

I have an old Stanley iron plane with a fence that swings so it cuts both. It works but it's a lot of work. I only use it for restoration type jobs to create authentic tool marks etc. otherwise it's just on display.

[Tom King]

Dedicated old wooden molding planes for me, when I happen to have the right size.  Multiplane (55) in a pinch if it's a one-off, but the iron hanging out in the air will never do as good a job as a molding plane with all the supporting edges.  I almost always need to finish with a shoulder plane when using a 55.

[Argus]

I've used 'em all at one time or another.

 

Here's a few basic tips....................

 

If you intend T&G jointing boards over about 1" thick (table-tops and the like) you'll need to use a combination of ploughs and rebates because dedicated T&G planes usually stop at about this thickness.

 

If you opt for the least expensive second-hand wooden variety, it's essential that they are original matched pairs and you don't mind honing the blades accurately square (especially the tonguing blade, as an imballance will result on a gap on one side of the board). Be prepared also to clean up the sides of the fences so that they align acurately. Once you have done that you will have an excellent set of tools that are a joy to use. Avoid buying marriages of a Tongue from one maker and the Groove from another - this will always give an uneven or ill-fitting joint.

 

Combination planes were intended for, and work best, on softwoods; I find that they can be difficult to control on hardwoods and woods that have a difficult grain pattern.If you intend to work in hardwoods, wooden T&G planes are better..... easier to control.

 

 

Whichever method you go for, always, always and always work your fences from the face side of the board and try to avoid complicated grain patterns. Straight grain gives a stronger joint and is much less work.

 

Good luck

[TerryMcK]

I have the Stanley #50 which has T&G blades. It's ok but has a steep learning curve. 

I've made a few T&G boards with it and produces fairly good results.

 

I also have a Record 044C plough plane (very nice) and a Record 778 rabbet plane (also fantastic) which can also be used to make T&G (albeit in more than one pass).

 

However, and I know you are asking about hand tools, I now just use a T&G router bit in the router table when I need some tongue and groove.

[Nub Thumb]

Thanks for the feedback, guys.  I'm waiting on a reply on the wooden set to make sure they are users.  They are for 1" boards, which is on the thick side of what I'll be doing, but I feel like I can keep them registered to one side and still be ok.

[Stephen Prunier]

If you work off of the same face with each board, the thickness of the boards won't be an issue. If you don't match the faces as you work, you may have issues with matching the thicknesses. I'm speaking from experience!!!