Help refinishing!


Mcmahill51

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Try cleaning with a barely damp rag or old towel on an inconspicuous area. You can spray a very mild cleaner on the rag to clean then wipe with a clean section of the rag. Do not get the surface wet ! Barely damp only !

They sell different colored markers and wax sticks (crayons ) for furniture touch ups. Start with a lighter color and practice in an inconspicuous  area.

If a rag dampened with denatured alcohol affects the finish then it's shellac. If you try laquer thinner and the finish wipes off cleanly its Laquer. It the laquer thinner makes the finish wrinkle up it is probably some type of varnish. Be very cautious in an inconspicuous place. 

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  • 2 weeks later...

I don't know if you can see this picture well, but this is a drawe bottom and the black looking stuff in the top corner is waxy and I can scrape it off with fingernail.

i also used some mineral spirits and the finish came off down to the stain.

the reason I asked about stain is there ate ares where the wood shrunk leaving natural colors at edges.

Again, thanks for every thing!

Scott

image.jpeg

Sorry, forgot to include picture of where I rubbed with mineral spirits!

image.jpeg

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A solid wood drawer bottom will expand and contract ,that's why it is floating in a groove and not glued in place. . Sometimes a panel can shift off of the original position and expose an unfinished edge.  I would still clean the piece with mineral spirits and a cotton rag , old tee shirts work well .

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Two things...

Steve is dead on. If mineral spirits is pulling that much off, wipe the whole thing. 

After you wipe that bottom, do a test. Get a rattle can of shellac and spray a test on the bottom. You may be surprised at how much color is still there and will pop with a top coat. The fact that the drawer bottom is finished is a huge plus in this case. 

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Scotch Brite and other brands of non woven abrasive pads come in different strengths . Green= very coarse Maroon= coarse Gray=medium White= fine

I have used a gray pad carefully or a white pad to scuff the old finish before recoating. 320 grit sandpaper works too but whatever you use be very careful around the edges and corners !!!!! It is very easy to sand through to bare wood on corners & edges and touching up those is difficult ! Wipe the whole piece carefully to remove dust before applying a new top coat.

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I mostly spray a water bourne finish that's usually just sold to pro shops. But lots of the guys here swear by General Finishes Arm-R-Seal, it's a wipe on finish oil & varnish mixture. Search ARS to see application tips or just follow the directions on the can.

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