duckkisser Posted October 30, 2013 Report Share Posted October 30, 2013 http://www.woodturnerscatalog.com/p/5/-/21/95/-/4816/Robert-Sorby-Pro-Edge%25E2%2584%25A2-Angle-Set is there a way that i can make this for free. seems like i could just measure and glue 4 blocks from the edge of my work table then use my wolverine guide to get the correct bevels. just dont know what the measurements are. anyone have any ideas? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hybrid-woodworker Posted October 30, 2013 Report Share Posted October 30, 2013 $24 seems a little high for a piece of sheet metal. I would just mak a block that fits between the base of the sharpener and the guide/rest. Measure angle of tool, adjust jig, measure distance needed and repeat for known angles. Extrapolate from there. Angles on turning tools don't have to be exact, they have to be what you like to use. BRuce 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
duckkisser Posted October 30, 2013 Author Report Share Posted October 30, 2013 thats what im going to do was just looking for is it 3" from the edge or 3 1/2". im guessing someone has done the work for me since everything has been done. dont want to spend a hour figuring out what 5 min on the computer could show me. anyone seen something that tells what the measurements are? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mikem Posted October 30, 2013 Report Share Posted October 30, 2013 Note that product is for use with another sorby product. Every sharpening jig is going to use a different distance to get the desired angle. When I used a honing jig for my chisels and plane irons I would initially use a protractor with to get the blade/iron set to the desired angle, then would make a mark on a block of wood. I had several of these going that I would reuse for each iron/chisel I had. For turning tools, while it is a little more difficult with the sharpening jigs and grinding wheel, you could use a similar process. Also, look at the manufacturers specs. I know with my thompson gouges he gave a recommended distance using the wolverine jig with the original varigrind, and I was able to make a stop block from that. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
duckkisser Posted October 30, 2013 Author Report Share Posted October 30, 2013 mike do you still have that information i lost mine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pghmyn Posted October 30, 2013 Report Share Posted October 30, 2013 Do you have a honing guide? If you can tell me the height of your honing guide, I can give you all the info you need. Its as easy as saying for a 30 degreen angle: Every 1.75" of height from the honing guide, the chisel must extend 3". It would be easier to draw a picture, but I dont have any paper at the moment. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
duckkisser Posted October 30, 2013 Author Report Share Posted October 30, 2013 https://www.google.com/#q=wolverine+sharpening+system&tbm=shop&spd=17013718504314566457 I have this tool for a sharpening its a one way vari grind so I am not use a honing guide I found this but it says its for a 8" wheel I only have a 6" grinder. anyone have an idea what of a better measurement http://www.thompsonlathetools.com/images/extra/Sharpening.pdf Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mikem Posted October 31, 2013 Report Share Posted October 31, 2013 8" vs 6" doesn't matter for distance. The difference is the 6" is going to create a bigger hollow grind. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
duckkisser Posted October 31, 2013 Author Report Share Posted October 31, 2013 thanks mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
calblacksmith Posted October 31, 2013 Report Share Posted October 31, 2013 It really does not matter what the angle is, if you are happy with what you are using, work backwards. Take a tool you like, adjust the grind rig to get the angle to match the angle on the tool then make a stop block at that distance. From that point on, you will be the same. When I bought the varigrind the video that came with it advised making a stop block for setting the tool. They advised drilling a 3/4" hole in a block of wood, 2" deep. Every time you then go to setup the tool, your distance is the same. That does not address the position of the pocket side of the rig. For that, you could make a collar like Eddie Castlin makes, he calls it the "accu-set" It is nothing more than a piece of tubing with a set screw in the side. Once you make your distance to the grinder from the pocket correct, lock the collar on the rod that fits into the base plate and you will always index to the same place. On his website, http://eddiecastelin.com/ he has instructions. http://eddiecastelin.com/yahoo_site_admin/assets/docs/blackhawk_instructions_073012.211123330.pdf For any depths stop to work, you need constants, the above setup will give you that and then when you change the depth of the jig on your tool, it will make predictable changes to the angle of the grind. He also gives templets to make your own angle setting guide for the pocket.http://eddiecastelin.com/yahoo_site_admin/assets/docs/hawkpattern.54183634.pdf I printed it out straight to a standard sheet of paper and the scale came out as close to perfect as it needs to be, less than 0.005" error over the 3" scale reference block. Simply cut out the guides, spray glue them to stock, cut and sand to fit. The work is done for you. Make several then set one for each grind you use, this will quickly locate the pocket for each setup at very little cost. Again, I am SURE you already knew about him but may have forgotten about his guides. I am sure you already knew this so if it doesn't help, sorry Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tpt life Posted October 31, 2013 Report Share Posted October 31, 2013 Do any of you make these jigs with a side fence for help aligning a blade that needs to be re squared or do you set by eye? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ozwald Posted October 31, 2013 Report Share Posted October 31, 2013 Personally I use Nova's system. I really don't care what the measured angle is, only that it works correctly. Skews - adjust base plate to the correct setting, put the sled on top & both skew/bevel angles are perfect. Parting tools - no sled, I drew a line perpendicular to the wheel on the base plate. Set the base plate & done. Roughing gouges - use the center of the sled, set base plate, done Scrapers - just like the parting tools only ignore the line (unless if it were a square nose, then I'd just use the line... don't have one of those yet) Bowl gouges - remove the base plate. I have a little mark on my bench next to the jig to keep the amount of prodruding steel the same (just like the stop block, but I use the edge of the bench & a line). Set the angle of the pivoting jig & the length of the bar, done. I have all the numbers either memorized or written down for the tools I don't use/sharpen very often. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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