sunadmin Posted January 11, 2014 Author Report Share Posted January 11, 2014 I'm using Kreg screws and all kreg clamps etc. Don't get me wrong I've made tons of stuff using the thing but as I try and get better accuracy I notice it bothers me more and more. The porter cable one looks really sharp. Not looking to get into the cabinet business but I do build quite a bit of stuff and I have an extensive "honey do" list sitting here on the bench. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dwacker Posted January 11, 2014 Report Share Posted January 11, 2014 This is the unit I am referring to. Not sure if it's "norm approved" however.http://www.portercable.com/Products/ProductDetail.aspx?ProductID=17120 This one used to be sold by PC years ago and the one I had.http://www.castleusa.com/products/tsm-11/ This is the one I have now.http://www.kregtool.com/Electric-Foreman-Prodview.html Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dwacker Posted January 11, 2014 Report Share Posted January 11, 2014 It's not a production minded solution, but I stick a K body clamp across the joint and lock it down tight. The clamp across the face can keep it flush but it doesn't stop the piece from moving backwards as the screw is trying to get started. It's pretty similar to the kreg clamp that goes into one of the pocket holes. If you give the glue a few minutes once it's clamped then it really can't go anywhere. You don't need the clamp to hold the joint together. Start your screw hit the reverse on your gun then hit the forward all in one motion without letting go of the trigger. Once you get the hang of it no more joint pushing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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