dwacker Posted January 6, 2014 Report Share Posted January 6, 2014 So can you give me the run down on how to build out from the face frame? I cut all my stiles and rails. Then dado starting with the stiles I dont know why. Dados run the full length of each board. 10mm in from from the outside edge, bottom rail rabbeted flush, top rail depends on screw locations can be inside or outside offset some contractors like the screw above the cabinet hidden from view. Pocket hole face frames together dados are now blind. Meaning the vertical dados do not run into the horizontal. This is the spot people get hung up they want to take a chisel and knock out the blind section and try to make a plywood box fit in that tight ass dado. Its not going to happen dont even try. They figure out that this doesn't work and this is why you see so many short cutting it. Dapper your deck (bottom) and top and it will all slip together like you greased it up. A dapper is nothing more than a notch named after a Her-Saf machine. You do not need the machine really its just a router. I just cut them free hand with a dado on the table saw while its set up, not the safest use a router. Here is what the tool looks like. http://www.hersaf.com/shop/index.php/action/item/id/12/ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pghmyn Posted January 6, 2014 Report Share Posted January 6, 2014 I cut all my stiles and rails. Then dado starting with the stiles I dont know why. Dados run the full length of each board. 10mm in from from the outside edge, bottom rail rabbeted flush, top rail depends on screw locations can be inside or outside offset some contractors like the screw above the cabinet hidden from view. Pocket hole face frames together dados are now blind. Meaning the vertical dados do not run into the horizontal. This is the spot people get hung up they want to take a chisel and knock out the blind section and try to make a plywood box fit in that tight ass dado. Its not going to happen dont even try. They figure out that this doesn't work and this is why you see so many short cutting it. Dapper your deck (bottom) and top and it will all slip together like you greased it up. A dapper is nothing more than a notch named after a Her-Saf machine. You do not need the machine really its just a router. I just cut them free hand with a dado on the table saw while its set up, not the safest use a router. Here is what the tool looks like. http://www.hersaf.com/shop/index.php/action/item/id/12/ Any plans on ever making a short/sweet video on this process? Would be a great video to watch. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom King Posted January 6, 2014 Report Share Posted January 6, 2014 Whiteside makes nice router bits that fit plywood close enough to exactly that you can just glue them on. I don't build many cabinets, but make the face frames with mortise and tenons, then cut the dadoes with a Po'Boys track for a router. Then build the boxes. It may not be the most efficient, but it works for us. Only if we are doing a long run, like cabinets we did on a 30 foot wall, will be bother to use a dado blade on the table saw. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sunadmin Posted January 6, 2014 Author Report Share Posted January 6, 2014 PB: I created a couple more views. I mocked up the dado'd face frame. The only way I could think to support the bottom panel would be a small cleat underneath with the sides being supported by dado's in the side panels. I assume the back could have a cleat also. I guess if you wanted to you could dado the front support into the face frame with a router. With this dado on the face frame option I'm not seeing any way to join the face frame pieces together? Would it just be glued and clamped since the dado on the sides is mechanically taking all the torque from the door? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dwacker Posted January 6, 2014 Report Share Posted January 6, 2014 PB: I created a couple more views. I mocked up the dado'd face frame. The only way I could think to support the bottom panel would be a small cleat underneath with the sides being supported by dado's in the side panels. I assume the back could have a cleat also. I guess if you wanted to you could dado the front support into the face frame with a router. Take off the cleat and rabbet the front rail change the depth of the dado to 5mm. As drawn your just making it harder by having different panel widths. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom King Posted January 6, 2014 Report Share Posted January 6, 2014 If you're buying plywood from the big box stores, here Lowes has a better quality 3/4 Birch than Home Depot does. The stuff at Lowes has more plys, and is almost as good as Baltic Birch. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sunadmin Posted January 6, 2014 Author Report Share Posted January 6, 2014 Something like this? Measurements could be off I'm not a sketchup expert. Tom: We have a menards nearby and they have good B2 and the way they store it the stuff comes out dead flat and the ends aren't all chewed up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dwacker Posted January 6, 2014 Report Share Posted January 6, 2014 Something like this? Measurements could be off I'm not a sketchup expert. Tom: We have a menards nearby and they have good B2 and the way they store it the stuff comes out dead flat and the ends aren't all chewed up. Good now you see that blind dado? This is the spot you need to dapper on your deck plywood. Your only going to use one pocket hole screw on each corner obviously. Once you get the hang of it, its easy. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sunadmin Posted January 6, 2014 Author Report Share Posted January 6, 2014 So the bottom face frame rail gets one pocket screw on the bottom inside under the bottom panel? The bottom panel will have a small notch in the front what about the back? Full length dado? My Sketchup pocket hole is pretty boss if I do say so myself:) When you say one pocket screw on each corner are you talking about on the face or the bottom panel? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rodger. Posted January 6, 2014 Report Share Posted January 6, 2014 Just started following this thread. I am also very interested in how particle constructs his cabinets! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chuck Melton Posted January 6, 2014 Report Share Posted January 6, 2014 Count me interested as well. I have a lot of cabinets to build once my skills are up to the task and I would have built them incorrectly. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
G S Haydon Posted January 6, 2014 Report Share Posted January 6, 2014 Just screw them together, all that joinery! :-). 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mikem Posted January 6, 2014 Report Share Posted January 6, 2014 +1 On hearing how PB does it as well. I can see kitchen cabinets in our future. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sunadmin Posted January 7, 2014 Author Report Share Posted January 7, 2014 We are working through it. Im trying to put it together in sketchup as we go. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dwacker Posted January 7, 2014 Report Share Posted January 7, 2014 So the bottom face frame rail gets one pocket screw on the bottom inside under the bottom panel? The bottom panel will have a small notch in the front what about the back? Full length dado? My Sketchup pocket hole is pretty boss if I do say so myself:) When you say one pocket screw on each corner are you talking about on the face or the bottom panel?Your back is easy no joinery just run zip-r's every 130-160mm. Ill get you some screen shots tomorrow. I think part of our system is up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sunadmin Posted January 7, 2014 Author Report Share Posted January 7, 2014 I promised my wife cabinets 8 years ago. I have been told time is up. Are ziprs code for screws? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dwacker Posted January 7, 2014 Report Share Posted January 7, 2014 I promised my wife cabinets 8 years ago. I have been told time is up. Are ziprs code for screws? Zipr-r are a brand of screw made for the job by hafele. You can use spax. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sunadmin Posted January 7, 2014 Author Report Share Posted January 7, 2014 Perfect those are sold at fastenal, just happen to have one just up the road. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sunadmin Posted January 7, 2014 Author Report Share Posted January 7, 2014 PB were you able to get those detail screenshots? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dwacker Posted January 7, 2014 Report Share Posted January 7, 2014 PB were you able to get those detail screenshots? Not yet been waiting all day to get a cat scan and eeg. I didn't think this was going to be an all day adventure. Ill pull something from the library when I get back. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dwacker Posted January 7, 2014 Report Share Posted January 7, 2014 See if these help Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dwacker Posted January 7, 2014 Report Share Posted January 7, 2014 Those are lame in low res I'll see what I can do they look great on a giant sized mac. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sunadmin Posted January 7, 2014 Author Report Share Posted January 7, 2014 they are an attempt at least. I think if the rendered wood wasn't on they would be crystal clear. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
G S Haydon Posted January 7, 2014 Report Share Posted January 7, 2014 Not yet been waiting all day to get a cat scan and eeg. I didn't think this was going to be an all day adventure. Ill pull something from the library when I get back. Hope you're ok dude! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sunadmin Posted January 8, 2014 Author Report Share Posted January 8, 2014 +1 one on the health check out Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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