Applying stain to large furniture project

[russjohnson]

I have a large bed I've been working on for my son and I'm coming close to completion of this project. That said because it is so big is ok to apply stain using a brush or should I stick with applying it using a cloth? The stain container states both are acceptable methods of applying the stain. The sample pieces of the stain I did was with a cloth but it feels like it would take forever to do using the cloth.

[PaulMarcel]

For a large surface where keeping a wet line can be difficult, I'd consider spraying it. Evenly spray it, let it sit, then wipe off the excess.

If you don't have spray equipment, there are other options:

If you are using a water-based stain, you can pre-dampen the surface with water. Just enough to know it got dampened; you aren't looking to saturate it. This slows the surface drying giving you time to keep a wet edge. I recently used some terry cloth wrapped staining pads from, of all places, Harbor Freight. 8 to a package. I really liked how they put down a water-based stain for me. Saturate the pad with water and squeeze it out a couple hours before you want to use it. You want it damp, not dripping. This keeps it from absorbing a ton of stain and wicking the water out of it making you spread a dry coat. I'd use this over a cloth; cloth doesn't hold nearly as much stain and folds in the cloth put it down unevenly.

For gel stain, you pretty much have more time to apply it since the gel holds enough "moisture" (solvent emulsion) to keep it from drying before you get back to the wet edge.

For oil-based stain, I don't have a good suggestion. The above suggestions are all things I've used successfully for large surfaces (in the dry hell that is Arizona). I haven't used an oil-based stain on a large surface.

[AceHoleInOne]

Try something like this, a latex paint type or a staining pad. Has a wide surface and gets product on fast. Not sure if your working water-based or oil based? Just make sure if using oil-based that the pad can handle the solvents in the oil. Water-based stains do dry fast, some finish companies offer extender to put in the stain for longer working time.

Hope this helps.

-Ace-

[ncapper14]

I can't say I've ever done this with something as large as a bed, but I've done tables before using oil-based stains and a brush. I always use the OCS stain line by Woodwright...they have a pretty good working time for larger projects like that and I've never had anything come out blotchy using them.

[russjohnson]

Thank you all for the comments. I'm thinking of using a large natual brush since I'm using an oil-based stain. I'm going to look into the pads suggested by Ace. I'm going to do it on a piece of scrap.

[jimi1283]

I just did a small table with gel stain, using rags to apply it. If I had to do it over again though, I would have applied the stain with a foam brush and removed it with cloth, since it was somewhat difficult to get an even application in the corners where the aprons hit the legs. I always seemed to take too much off when removing it, so after the second coat I had to do small touch-ups in all the corners to make sure the stain was even. I actually painted it on with a foam brush and left it on to dry since it was such a thin coat. For large, flat surfaces though, rags are the way to go since you can put a lot on and take a lot off quickly.

Here's the table btw, still working on the top (butcher block):

[AceHoleInOne]

Using a dry paint brush (dry brushing) on those tough areas, works great to even your stain application. Works really nice on raised panel doors, blending the stain in.

Since gel stains sit on top of the wood, I find gel stains work best applied with a rag and worked into the wood.

-Ace-

[russjohnson]

Do you think these sponges would work with Oil based stain. I saw them and they looked like a cool option.

If you are using a water-based stain, you can pre-dampen the surface with water. Just enough to know it got dampened; you aren't looking to saturate it. This slows the surface drying giving you time to keep a wet edge. I recently used some terry cloth wrapped staining pads from, of all places, Harbor Freight. 8 to a package. I really liked how they put down a water-based stain for me. Saturate the pad with water and squeeze it out a couple hours before you want to use it. You want it damp, not dripping. This keeps it from absorbing a ton of stain and wicking the water out of it making you spread a dry coat. I'd use this over a cloth; cloth doesn't hold nearly as much stain and folds in the cloth put it down unevenly.

[PaulMarcel]

Do you think these sponges would work with Oil based stain. I saw them and they looked like a cool option.

Well, I haven't used them with an oil-based stain yet though I'm pretty sure they would work very well. I used one again last night to stain two big boxes; it was a water-based stain and went down quickly with completely even coverage... no lap marks.

I actually don't stain that often and have normally chosen General Finishes water-based stains. One exception was a gel I needed for a color match/blotch control. Knowing how that went down, I'd say the pads would work well for even application.

I think there is still some reason to lightly dampen the outside cloth with your solvent to keep it from wicking too much stain. I keep mineral spirits in a squirt bottle... squirt each side and get to it.

Let us know how it worked.

[bbast]

You can look at the Old Masters stains, they give you a fairly good working time.

[Rick LoDico]

I just stained a large free standing cabinet this morning. I used a foam brush and a rag with no problems. I applied the stain about a sq ft at a time and rubbed it in with the rag. There was no running or pooling of the stain.

[iSawitFirst]

You should be fine using a brush to apply with and a cloth to take it off. Take time to plan your staining strategy and make sure you have all your materials ready to go before starting. Including extra rags and gloves for when you tip over the can of stain.

Sage advise.