Domino 500 - chair build

Recommended Posts

Hi all.

Lumber is here from bell forest (beautiful). 220v outlet to be installed this week for the new tablesaw (love the 15% off Powermatic sale!).

And, been playing with my new Domino 500 all weekend (in my 15m windows of free time).

So I'm thinking the Domino will be a confidence booster for my first build, but had some quick questions.

1. Has anyone tried this guild build with a Domino?

2. I'm guessing with the 500, the big 10mm x 50mm dominos (rows of 2 or 3) will be the main floating tenon joinery - 28mm per board depth. Sturdy enough for this chair?

3. With Mahogany, should I use the wider mortise setting on one of the boards? (manual recommended this for harder woods)

4. And lastly, any potential pitfalls for which to look out? Been scratching my head a bit over the angled tenon in the front leg joinery.

Thanks all. Any feedback would be appreciated. I'll be sure to document my build, catastrophic mistakes and all :).


  • Like 1

Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites


Double and triple checked my measurements on the side legs, since I'm not cutting the one-piece tenons. Almost screwed up the angles about 5 different times - thank god for scrap test cuts. So easy to goof up when that mitre gauge comes out.

I only get about 30m in the shop per day, if that, but it's good to know I made some progress tonight.


Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

Nice progress especially for 30 minutes.  Sometimes it takes me that long just to decide what I want to do next!

Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites


Side legs curves cut and sanded. Every day, a bit more progress.

Plus, a great excuse to buy an oscillating spindle sander (which in my head, I always seem to say with a snagglepuss accent).

Tomorrow, I break out the flush trim bit and the turners tape (smash cut to me with a mahogany board taped to my beard).


Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

Second leg copied, and cloud lifts added. Couldn't help but notice that the cloud lift curve was the same size as the flush trim bearing. Is that by design?

The 2" flush trim bit is officially my new favorite toy (23000 rpm take your face off toy)




  • Like 1

Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

Side legs complete

Feels good to have completed a portion of the project and I had quite a few takeaways. Just in the side legs alone, it was my first time using:

- my new tablesaw

- mitre gauge angled cuts

- mahogany

- flush trim bit on my router table.

- turners tape

- osc spindle sander

Learned a lot and am pleased with the result.


Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

Great start on the Chair. It's always fun to use/have new tools!


I'm a turner (90% of the time) and  didn't know that Double-Sided tape was talked Turner's Tape.

Funny that tuners call it Double-sided Tape and Flat Work Woodworkers call it Turners Tape. haha


Learn something new with every post.

Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

Leg Details:

Holy %#*^. It worked!

I thought the odds were stacked against me...

- My router never comes out of the router table

- the plunge stops have been disabled

- I don't have a 1" bushing

- I've never used the router in 'handheld' mode

To make up for the lack of bushing, and since I already built the jig, I used a couple 1/8" shims and double stick taped them to the inside of the jig, only touching the plywood (see photo). To my surprise, first try and it worked. I jumped up and down like Tom Hanks in Castaway when he finally creates fire. I CREATED G & G LEG DETAIL!!! (Scrap photo attached)

One side rode just a hair deeper, but sanding cleaned it up to make both ends of the taper even. Still, I wonder what the culprit was for that. Maybe my jig isn't completely flat.

I still don't understand the bit in the video about the 2nd clamp only grabbing the rail sides to keep the other end of the jig from rising. What am I missing? Seems the jig comes off the table regardless?

Also. since I had several hours in the shop today, I knocked out most of the apron. No bandsaw. So I used the tablesaw. Cuts were true, so no need for jointer between cuts. I did however get a bit carried away with the glue....( see messy photo).

The angle on my mitre guide would up being about 40 degrees.

I'd love to use my planer to clean it up, however I don't trust it enough to not to bite the ends a little....which sucks. It's a nice piece of machinery (12" Makita), but I don't have confidence in it. I'll likely spend some time with the ROS instead.

Going to need a shot of courage before routing the detail on the actual legs ( 8 times).....I think I'll go out and buy a 1" bushing first.






Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

Is it a chair yet?

Tis a fine barn, lad, but tis no chair.

Bit the bullet and went with my modified jig, to accommodate my lack of a 1" bushing. I fixed some of the inconsistency by sanding the top of the jig flush. For the record the modification was as follows:

2 shims 7/32" thick by 3/4 wide by (the length of the jig hole) - double stick taped on each inner side.

My taper shim was also 7/32" thick.

Total router bit depth measurement was 11/16" ( no plunge, just started it on the high end).

Give me a 1/8" cut that tapered about 4 inches to flat.

Routed all 8 leg details, which was easily the most stressful part of this build yet. Put the apron through the planer too...came out beautiful. My fears were for not.

Using the domino for the joinery (this week) has given me the luxury of not committing to a any certain side of the legs just yet. It's nice to be able to dry fit with double stick tape and clamps to see what I like best.

Modifying the jig to fit my equipment was the most fulfilling part of this build yet.




  • Like 1

Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

Back slats done! (but for the notch)

My front and back brace boards were pretty warped. Bell Forest's customer service took care of me. In the meantime, I skipped ahead to the back slats. Little by little...


Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

We have joinery!

After making about 5000 test mortises with the Domino, I finally put the rubber to the road with the front and side legs. The 17 degree angled cutoff scrap pieces from the side legs were perfect for making my test cuts.

Used the 10x50 tenons for the side leg/front leg joinery. 3 total, with a 2 domino thickness spacing in between. Pencil guide lines used for all cuts. Retracted the dog paddles on the domino, as they really get in the way.


The mortise depth in the plan calls for 1 1/8 inches.  With the 10x50 domino tenon, I get just shy of 1 inch penetration with ~3mm of expansion room on each end of the floating tenon.  Hopefully, there's no major loss in structural integrity.  I'm no engineer, but my assumption would be that the 3 tenons are applying upward force to six different (strong) surface areas, equally disbursed within the legs.  Coupled with the joinery in the rest of the design, it should support my 150lb frame just fine!


For the record, I used the "tight fit" setting for all three (six) mortises.

More photos on next post.




Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

Apron joinery complete. Since the plan called for a 3/8" mortise for the apron, I used the tiny 4 x 10mm dominos. Lined up 4 in a row.

If the plans didn't also call for the 2" screws, I likely would have used 2 rows of 4 in each apron side, but this should work just fine.

Lined up the back slats just for fun. Starting to look like a chair!




Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites



Starting the upper back brace/arms and it looks like the half lap is pretty necessary - I don't think I could get away with domino joinery there.


Can a (lot) of passes suffice on the router table with a 1/2" bit for the half lap.  Or will I run the risk of small 'ruffles' (can't think of a better term) because of so many passes?


Thanks - it essentially determines whether I need to purchase a dado stack.


Of course, if the upcoming Morris chair requires a dado-stack....maybe it's time to buy one anyway.


Thanks all.


Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

Lower back brace complete

Took some time off of this project to work on a few others. Happy to be back to it.

The bevel was a challenge, because I don't have a bandsaw. I did come up with a solution, however, using my table mounted jigsaw.

With a thin scrap board double stick taped to the edge, and some test cuts, I could run the tilted piece across the table to achieve the desired angle (see pic) It made me happy to come up with a solution - I'm learning that adaptability is a big part of woodworking, but also quite a fulfilling aspect.

Lots of time measuring and marking lines to get the dominos just right, but they came out great. Used 10x50's. (Pic attached).

Time for the arms and upper back brace. Here we go.






  • Like 1

Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

Half laps complete - and check out my attention to grain selection on the arms. the bottom of the arms...


Ah well. :)


Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • Who's Online   3 Members, 0 Anonymous, 241 Guests (See full list)

  • Forum Statistics

    Total Topics
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    Total Members
    Most Online
    Newest Member