Finishing Cherry


haverlad

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If you want to match the cabinets in the photo you will need to use a spray stain to get an even color. I would suggest a trip to a quality finish supplier like sherwin williams, rodda............... Rather than fiddle with make shift methods your better off just getting a matched spray stain and be done with it.

I am completely fine with going with a high quality spray stain.  Do I need to do a seal coat to control blotching?  Do I apply before or after the spray stain?  I typically use Sherwin Williams T77F57 HI-Build med rub precat lacquer.  Would you add transtint to that if I don't get as dark of a color as I am looking for? 

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I am completely fine with going with a high quality spray stain.  Do I need to do a seal coat to control blotching?  Do I apply before or after the spray stain?  I typically use Sherwin Williams T77F57 HI-Build med rub precat lacquer.  Would you add transtint to that if I don't get as dark of a color as I am looking for? 

 

No spray stains don't blotch nor do they need any make shift methods to control blotching. The depth of color is controlled by you so you don't need to tint your top coat. Go to Rodda or Sherwin williams and have them mix a a can of lacquer stain to match the color you want. Set your gun to a very fine mist and practice on some plywood scraps. If this build will be in a kitchen or bath it should be coated with a vinyl sealer prior to top coating if not then just your lacquer will work.

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Excellent. We have sherwin williams but no rodda. Do you have a recommendation on a vinyl sealer?

 

Personally I just use vinyl sealer on anything sprayed with lacquer. Lacquer has almost no moisture resistance without vinyl. Its not expensive and sands great so its just one of those might as well do it sort of things, pays off in the long run. Its a must in kitchens and baths.

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PB if you glaze, do you put a thin coat of lacquer on before the glaze process, then more lacquer, then sealer?

 

Depends on the stain used. With lacquer stain there is no need to seal before the glaze It has enough solids to seal itself. With other stains if your going to use vinyl then I would just use the vinyl because its cheaper, it doesn't take much to seal in a stain. 

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I forgot to mention I am after a natural wood tone so no prestain would be applied. If thats the case would ypu shoot clear lacquer before glaze? Or would that be a dumb idea altogether, glazing without stain?

 

If thats what you want then its not a dumb idea. Yes seal first with lacquer or sealer.

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Personally I just use vinyl sealer on anything sprayed with lacquer. Lacquer has almost no moisture resistance without vinyl. Its not expensive and sands great so its just one of those might as well do it sort of things, pays off in the long run. Its a must in kitchens and baths.

PB - I stopped into sherwin williams and they said they have a mineral spirits based wiping stain and a xylene based wiping stain. Is this what you were talking about or something else? Do you have a part number I can reference so I make sure I get the right stuff?
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PB - I stopped into sherwin williams and they said they have a mineral spirits based wiping stain and a xylene based wiping stain. Is this what you were talking about or something else? Do you have a part number I can reference so I make sure I get the right stuff?

I can't remember the Sherwin Williams product number I quit using them years ago. Their employees are idiots. Check to see if you have a SW commercial store close to you they will know what they are talking about. Below is the Rodda product I prefer.

post-5350-0-77551000-1429364956_thumb.jp

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I can't remember the Sherwin Williams product number I quit using them years ago. Their employees are idiots. Check to see if you have a SW commercial store close to you they will know what they are talking about. Below is the Rodda product I prefer.

attachicon.gifimage.jpg

PB - I talked to the guys at PPG in town and they said they do have a lacquer stain in their Gemini line but they are limited on the colors.  Are you familiar with that product at all?  Do you think I could add transtint or anything else to it to darken it to the espresso look I am after?  Here is what I believe they might be talking about. 

 

http://www.gemini-coatings.com/index.php?architectural/products&product_id=5

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PB - I talked to the guys at PPG in town and they said they do have a lacquer stain in their Gemini line but they are limited on the colors.  Are you familiar with that product at all?  Do you think I could add transtint or anything else to it to darken it to the espresso look I am after?  Here is what I believe they might be talking about. 

 

http://www.gemini-coatings.com/index.php?architectural/products&product_id=5

 

:) Tell them you want clear and you want them to color the stain to match. They should have 844 and just don't realize they can color match.

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I can't remember the Sherwin Williams product number I quit using them years ago. Their employees are idiots. Check to see if you have a SW commercial store close to you they will know what they are talking about. Below is the Rodda product I prefer.

attachicon.gifimage.jpg

 

This is true.  The people at the SW retail stores are mostly 17 year olds who work there for the fumes.

 

I have had mixed luck at the commercial stores.  In the entire chicago area they only have one store that will tint lacquer on site (that I know of).  I think they call it a "product finishes store."

 

I have given up on SW.  I have found a local indepenent commercial finishing store that is helpful.  See if you can find a place like this in your area.

http://reliablefinishingproducts.com/about/

 

I do think some of this is due to state EPA laws (at least this is what SW told me).  The store must be equipped with the proper ventilation systems to mix lacquers and other solvent based finishes.  Maybe that s BS, I don't now.  

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