Finishing Cherry


haverlad

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I am new to the site and apologize if there is already a thread on this topic but I couldn't find a forum search feature.  I am working on a cabinet project, using cherry.  I have some both some lighter and darker mixes in the wood and am wondering if it is possible to use a finishing method to get them to look similar in color at the end.  I was thinking maybe dye in the lacquer might be my best bet but wanted to reach out for opinions. 

 

Second question is whether anyone has suggestions on plywood to use for sides, backs, etc.  I like the lighter look inside of the cabinet but would like the exposed sides to have the same color/look to the cherry face frames and doors.  I am less concerned with matching the grain than the color. 

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==>I couldn't find a forum search feature

It's the rather large box in the upper right corner -- marked 'Search'

 

==>if there is already a thread on this topic

I suspect there are between 250 and 1000 threads on finishing Cherry...

 

Here are the first few results:






 

Pay attention to posts focusing on 'sap' or 'sapwood'.

 

good luck

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Welcome to the forum!

 

Have you considered buying some cherry plywood? I'm using it on a project I'm currently building and have been pleased with the results.

 

When building with cherry - which is my favorite wood - I always use Charles Neil's water based blotch control. I've never been real concerned with the color variations of cherry as it will all darken with age. Personally I'd NEVER stain cherry.

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Definitely give thought to blotch control like was stated above.

My blotch control method is to sand up to 1000gr then apply whatever finish warmed in a warming plate. It has always worked for me on small projeCts. Haven't tried it on anything bigger than a bread box though.

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I am not very familiar with shellac but it looks like adding transtint to sealcoat and using as a toner might be a good option.  My question is am I better off staining first to achieve a color that is somewhat close and then applying the toner or only using the toner and apply until I reach my desired color and then lacquer?

 

This is the kind of color I am looking to achieve or close to:  http://www.shilohcabinetry.com/gallery/images/28.jpg

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I am not very familiar with shellac but it looks like adding transtint to sealcoat and using as a toner might be a good option.  My question is am I better off staining first to achieve a color that is somewhat close and then applying the toner or only using the toner and apply until I reach my desired color and then lacquer?

 

This is the kind of color I am looking to achieve or close to:  http://www.shilohcabinetry.com/gallery/images/28.jpg

 

Can you spray? 

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Yes

 

If you want to match the cabinets in the photo you will need to use a spray stain to get an even color. I would suggest a trip to a quality finish supplier like sherwin williams, rodda............... Rather than fiddle with make shift methods your better off just getting a matched spray stain and be done with it.

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==>This is the kind of color I am looking to achieve

You can go a couple of routes...

 

One way is an involved schedule including a seal coat or two, an equalizer, a barrier coat, tint coat or three... some more stuff, then a glaze... It's what I do -- it works. It's also what's done at the industrial level... You can find quite a few schedules published for Cherry.

 

Another is the what PB is talking about...I haven't done this method, but I know it also works...

 

Of course, Cherry's an expensive way to get there... You could go Maple and end-up at the same point for about 50% of the cost... Just something to think about...

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it works. It's also what's done at the industrial level... 

 

 

 

Yes and no. Not nearly as many steps. This color is easy on cherry its just a standard flat line spray stain over aged cherry. If it were a glazed finish it would be flatlined with the aged cherry as an "equalizer" no seal/barrier coat. The stain has a high level of binder so its not needed, the glaze goes right over the stain wiped back and finish coats are flatlined.

Aged cherry undertone with something like espresso top stain then top coated. Personally I think it would look better with something like Valspar zenith WB cherry spray stain seal coated with zenith WB lacquer glazed with zenith espresso powder glaze. That will get you very close in a home shop.

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==>This color is easy on cherry its just a standard flat line spray stain over aged cherr

Good point... I've used the schedule about a half dozen times to take Maple to aged cherry -- I personally wouldn't color Cherry other than to equalize panels... A lot of folks like the aged Cherry look, but don't want to aford Cherry stock... The Maple to aged-Cherry schedule I use has eight or nine steps, but again starting with Maple... There's a schedule for M->C in CN's new book that get's there in about four steps, but I've never tried it... On the long schedule, the extra barrier coats are really to lock-in color coats to prevent scuff-sanding screw-ups -- and you're right, the pros really don't need it... But even if you could get the schedule down to four or five it's still more steps compated to what you suggeted...

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Most commercial cabinets even solid cherry are stained. One it expedites or stops depending on what is desired the the aging process. Secondly it prevents localized sun damage or color change from a window that would otherwise change the color in a localized section of the cabinet work.

 

Cherry made to look more like cherry is a little bit of an odd animal. Green dye stain sprayed under the final cherry spray stain nets good results without the mess of doing a full flush on the flatline.

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==>Cherry made to look more like cherry is a little bit of an odd animal.

:)

 

Although, I do equalize large Cherry projects -- especially glue-up panels with sapwood involved...

 

Not really its just plain smart, its called CYA. :) You don't want to sell a 35K kitchen and have a window change the color on only half the cabinets  right down the middle and get sued.

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==>its called CYA. :)

That’s experience talking… I only think about UV when nut-wood pieces are headed to Florida --- but I’ve never thought about it for cabinets… And, of course, Cherry cabinets are the perfect case...

 

 

Which reminds me, I can’t source UV additives for my go-to cat lacquer – they say it’s become too expensive for my small orders (now, if I want 100 gals...).  I’ve got a large refinish project (for me, that's anyting over 5gals) this summer where UV will be an issue… Any ideas?

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Which reminds me, I can’t source UV additives for my go-to cat lacquer – they say it’s become too expensive for my small orders (now, if I want 100 gals...).  I’ve got a large refinish project (for me, that's anyting over 5gals) this summer where UV will be an issue… Any ideas?

 

Chemcraft but I think the smallest size is going to be 5 gallons. Most of their lacquers have uv inhabiters. Airguard is a nice spraying finish.

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Thanks. I figured it was going to be a 5gal min - wich is good, because I probably need around 5gals. My pressure pot doesn't agitate and figure I should upgrade on the back of this project... Looking at the small Binks in stainless. Any thoughts?

 

 

BTW: sorry for the hijack... Unfortunatly, none of the antiques I'll be refinishing this year will be Cherry, so can't even get cover there... :)

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Good point about liners... What about the Binks in general -- I've used their guns, but never their pots... I've got an Apollo now, but want agitation...

 

I would look at CA if I was shopping. We have a CA 55g mixer and it works well, haven't heard any complaints anyways. I had the little 2.5g bottom feed once upon a time and it worked great.

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Found a decent looking kit – CAT, 2.5g, B-out, PTFE coating, 2 Regs, air agitation and a 60pack of lingers… Looks perfect – found it for $699 – looking for a local dealer…

 

 

Thanks.

 

 

 

 

What was this thread about?   Oh yea.... Cherry... Yea, just go with the bright orange stuff in the rattle can... :)

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