wdwerker Posted August 24, 2015 Report Share Posted August 24, 2015 2 or 3 days is usually fine if the wood is kiln dried. Your just letting it adjust to the temperature and humidity of your shop. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TPirson Posted September 3, 2015 Author Report Share Posted September 3, 2015 (edited) Had a longer than expected delay in getting started. Last Saturday, I got most of the day in the shop, most of the morning was cleaning up and making room for the new project. Anyway, I got all the parts cut to length and squared up and before turning off for the night got to legs glued up.They've been sitting in the clamps since Saturday, just ran over during lunch and pulled them out. I've got a lot of sanding to do since I forgot to switch from the crosscut to rip blade on the RAS when I cut these widths, so I've got a lot of blade marks to clean up.I think I'm still going to put the QS veneer on these faces, but I think I did a pretty good job of matching the faces and grain for my first try. (Ask me again in 5 years...)This project is already driving home that I need to purchase a reliable table saw if I'm to continue. Edited September 3, 2015 by TPirson Add photos Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wtnhighlander Posted September 4, 2015 Report Share Posted September 4, 2015 Nice job! Grain matching legs that way is not easy to do. The Schwarz demonstrated a method some time ago, in which two face-grain boards were glued together, then the legs were sawn out, tilted 45* to the face, so that the glue lines ran down 2 of the corners. This gives 4 faces of rift sawn grain, and makes the joint disappear, if the glue up is tight. You need to start with fairly thick stock, though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TPirson Posted September 4, 2015 Author Report Share Posted September 4, 2015 Thanks, that technique sounds like it needs equipment that's quite a bit more accurate than mine. My luck, I'd end up with the joint an eight from the corner and cause some huge problem...I had always figured I would be using veneer to get the quartersawn face, but wanted to see how close I could get the grain as practice.One thing I noticed with the glueup was that the Titebond had some reaction with my pipe clamps, at each of the points where the wood touched the pipe and the glue squeezed out onto the clamp, the glue turned black. Is there some titebond/iron reaction I should know about? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Strasberry Posted September 5, 2015 Report Share Posted September 5, 2015 Thanks, that technique sounds like it needs equipment that's quite a bit more accurate than mine. My luck, I'd end up with the joint an eight from the corner and cause some huge problem...I had always figured I would be using veneer to get the quartersawn face, but wanted to see how close I could get the grain as practice.One thing I noticed with the glueup was that the Titebond had some reaction with my pipe clamps, at each of the points where the wood touched the pipe and the glue squeezed out onto the clamp, the glue turned black. Is there some titebond/iron reaction I should know about?Its been my experience that any water based glue will leave those dark marks. Its like oxidising the metal and leeching into the wood! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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