klousiajp@gmail.com Posted December 10, 2010 Report Share Posted December 10, 2010 I have a picture frame I made of cherry and bubinga and wanted to see what suggestions you guys had for a finish. I'm looking to preserve the wood rather than cover it, despite my wife's wishes. Is there anything that I need to be careful of regarding the bubinga? I've never worked with it. I'm open to just about anything, but I don't have a spray system. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sac Posted December 10, 2010 Report Share Posted December 10, 2010 Since it is a picture frame, it doesnt really need a lot of protection. I personally, would use an oil finish like Boiled Linseed Oil (BLO). and then maybe use a little wax to make it look real nice. Oil will really bring out the nice color, especially from that Bubinga. Do you hae any pics of the frame? would love to see it.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TxSawdust Posted December 10, 2010 Report Share Posted December 10, 2010 Sac, I would use the linseed oil also, but what kind of wax would you put on something like that? I've never added that to a finish before. J.P., get a picture out here for us, man. I'd really like to see the combination of those woods. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sac Posted December 10, 2010 Report Share Posted December 10, 2010 Sac, I would use the linseed oil also, but what kind of wax would you put on something like that? I've never added that to a finish before. J.P., get a picture out here for us, man. I'd really like to see the combination of those woods. I have heard of a lot of people using Renaissance Wax. I have not used wax on a finish yet. Just what I have heard other having good success with. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Bennett Posted December 10, 2010 Report Share Posted December 10, 2010 Making your own wax polish is almost too easy. Just get some pure beeswax( I have a friend who has 130 hives so I just ask and he gives, great aint it.) I expect most bee keepers would be willing to let you have some. Once you've got it get a shallow tin and shred the wax into it. You don't need to do this but it makes the next stage so much quicker. After you've shredded it pour over it some pure Turpentine just enough to cover, you're better at this stage to not use enough because once its all melted you can add as much as you want. Place the tin over a very gentle heat, electric is much safer that a gas ring. stir it up now and again and there you have it. You're trying to obtain a soft paste a little thicker than extra thick double cream. If it's too soft it doesn't really matter you can brush it on if it's thin enough but usually I apply mine with a rag. Leave it to cool and then it's ready for use. It's at this stage you can add more wax or Turps to arrive at the consistency you want. A little experience will soon tell you what's best for you. Spread a good thin layer in circular motions followed by larger sweeps and finish off by running with long even strokes the full length of the piece. Once satisfied it's reasonably flat and evenly coated. Put it to one side and leave until the surface feels dry, but, it may still feel slightly tacky, don't worry. If you don't have one of these wonderful buffing brushes that I recently posted for Dryhter then you'll need a good coarse piece of cloth to begin the buffing process. Once you've got a good even sheen and no obvious lumps of wax on the surface you can change to a smooth cloth and give a final polish. Elbow grease my mentor used to tell me, was all that it took. I prefer my drill driven buffer these days. It is also very easy to colour these wax polishes if you should ever need to. I usually have a slab about 10" in diameter by 4" thick This will more than fill my 12" square by 4" deep biscuit tin once mixed and will last me at least a year but then I do an awful lot of wax finished Oak furniture. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AceHoleInOne Posted December 11, 2010 Report Share Posted December 11, 2010 Try wiping a little mineral spirits on the woods, will sorta give you what an oil finish may look like. I have seen bubinga and cherry wood mixed, but only the cherry was stained with a honey pine color and looked very nice, then a top-coat with satin Arm-R-Seal. Test on some scraps... -Ace- Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
klousiajp@gmail.com Posted December 11, 2010 Author Report Share Posted December 11, 2010 BLO and Wax it is then. I'll have to try and find myself a little wax some place. I assume that cherry doesn't have the same yellowing issue with BLO that maple does? Will it preserve the lighter color or will the cherry still turn redder with time? I'm curious to see how the cherry and bubinga work together. Right now, I really like the contrast but I'm guessing that as the cherry gets redder the look of the frame will really change. I'll take a couple of pictures and put them up shortly. Right now it's all clamped up. It's pretty simple so don't get your hopes up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iSawitFirst Posted December 11, 2010 Report Share Posted December 11, 2010 BLO and other oils will tend to color the wood, although, the yellow that maple turns is because it doesn't have any brown in it. Bubinga and Cherry do so it shouldn't yellow. To get a clear finish use water based poly, but I'd go with the oil on Bubinga. Be aware that BLO takes a loooooong time to cure. Tung oil usually is sold with additives that cure faster. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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