Table Saw Kerf

[Mikpohl]

Hello -

Does it makes sense to have Thin Kerf vs Standard 1/8 Inch kerf in Table saw Blade? Advantages/disadvantages? Also do I need a larger round plate to hold blade with Thin Kerf? Thanks a Bunch. Appreciate it

Mike

[knotscott]

Tastes Great, Less Filling!

There are pros and cons to each, and times when each is the most beneficial depending on your saw, the blade, and what you're cutting.

Which kerf width to choose can be as easy as following manufacturer’s recommendations of using thin kerf blades for saws under 3hp (ie: most compact, jobsite, contractor, or hybrid saws fall in the 1hp to 2hp range), and full kerf blades for saws with motors 3hp and up (ie: industrial cabinet saws), but that’s where the simplicity ends and the debates begin. As with many choices, it’ll boil down to a matter of preference and your particular situation. There are legitimate arguments for both kerf widths. To some folks, it’s just a matter of the math being simpler with a 1/8” blade than a 3/32” blade. It can also be a matter of not knowing any better, or what was available on sale at the time of purchase. Both kerf widths will work with most saws, but note that changing kerf width can skew the zero reference on the measuring tape on a left tilt saw, so you’ll need to address that if you change widths.

Even though the width differences appear very small, a full kerf blade is typically 33% thicker than it’s TK counterpart. A wider kerf blade makes a wider cut, thus taking more wood and requiring more power to make the cut at the same speed…a similar principle to a lawn mower’s width of cut. Slowing down the feed rate can help compensate somewhat for the additional power requirements, but slower cutting means more of a tendency to burn the wood, and less ability to cut efficiently in thick materials. There will also be a proportionately higher amount of sawdust with a full kerf blade, more wood consumed in the process, and even somewhat higher noise levels. Wood savings can be a consideration, though a minor one for most hobbyists. That consideration may become more significant if you handle a lot of expensive wood.

Full kerf blades tend to be more stable than their TK counterparts due to the increased steel thickness and body mass, but require more power to spin. The heavier mass of a full kerf plate will handle the stresses of heat better than a TK blade, so is often a more suitable choice for high volume applications. If you’re using a saw that’s under 3hp, a TK blade will pose less resistance to your saw. A high quality thin kerf blade with proper tensioning of the body during manufacturing will rival the cut quality and performance of a high quality full kerf blade, and can be a very suitable choice for a home shop, smaller saws, and even in many commercial settings where wood consumption is a concern. Your splitter or riving knife width should also be part of the consideration. Choosing a blade that’s thinner than the splitter blade can cause the board to stop mid cut if the board binds on the splitter. There are legitimate arguments for both kerf widths, and the choice will come down to your personal preference and circumstances.

FWIW, I've used several excellent examples of both. My 2hp contractor saw and 1-3/4hp hybrid has a noticeably easier time spinning TK blades, and I gotten great cutting results with several of them. Now that I've got a 3hp cabinet saw, I tend to buy only full kerf blades for it, but I've not noticed any improvement in cut quality when I switched.

[WoodClips]

My experience has been consistent with everything Scott says above. I have a 1 1/2 HP contractor saw and have used both thin and full kerf blades in it. In the past I've used thin kerf blades with a blade stabilizer, and my observation is that the thin kerf blades do tend to flex a little bit (as evidenced by the kerf in my zero-clearance insert and miter gauge widening over time), but this hasn't really caused me any problems in practice. I've since switched to a full kerf blade and can confirm that it is a bit slower at ripping, although once again, in practice this hasn't been a problem. Either way, I don't think the disadvantages of either type are significant enough to spend much time worrying about it. If you have a lower horsepower saw like mine and want the best of both worlds, you could get a full kerf combo blade for cross-cuts (where deflection is more likely to be a problem) and the odd rip, and a thin kerf blade with fewer teeth if you have a big batch of ripping to do.

Rory

[Mikpohl]

Thank you for the time you spent here. I really appreciate it. A wealth of information. based on what you said, next blade will be a thin Kerf. Thanks a Bunch..

[Mikpohl]

I really appreciate the answer and time you spent with it, great info. Thin it is for my next blade. Appreciate it !!

Mike

[Mikpohl]

Tastes Great, Less Filling!

There are pros and cons to each, and times when each is the most beneficial depending on your saw, the blade, and what you're cutting.

Which kerf width to choose can be as easy as following manufacturer’s recommendations of using thin kerf blades for saws under 3hp (ie: most compact, jobsite, contractor, or hybrid saws fall in the 1hp to 2hp range), and full kerf blades for saws with motors 3hp and up (ie: industrial cabinet saws), but that’s where the simplicity ends and the debates begin. As with many choices, it’ll boil down to a matter of preference and your particular situation. There are legitimate arguments for both kerf widths. To some folks, it’s just a matter of the math being simpler with a 1/8” blade than a 3/32” blade. It can also be a matter of not knowing any better, or what was available on sale at the time of purchase. Both kerf widths will work with most saws, but note that changing kerf width can skew the zero reference on the measuring tape on a left tilt saw, so you’ll need to address that if you change widths.

Even though the width differences appear very small, a full kerf blade is typically 33% thicker than it’s TK counterpart. A wider kerf blade makes a wider cut, thus taking more wood and requiring more power to make the cut at the same speed…a similar principle to a lawn mower’s width of cut. Slowing down the feed rate can help compensate somewhat for the additional power requirements, but slower cutting means more of a tendency to burn the wood, and less ability to cut efficiently in thick materials. There will also be a proportionately higher amount of sawdust with a full kerf blade, more wood consumed in the process, and even somewhat higher noise levels. Wood savings can be a consideration, though a minor one for most hobbyists. That consideration may become more significant if you handle a lot of expensive wood.

Full kerf blades tend to be more stable than their TK counterparts due to the increased steel thickness and body mass, but require more power to spin. The heavier mass of a full kerf plate will handle the stresses of heat better than a TK blade, so is often a more suitable choice for high volume applications. If you’re using a saw that’s under 3hp, a TK blade will pose less resistance to your saw. A high quality thin kerf blade with proper tensioning of the body during manufacturing will rival the cut quality and performance of a high quality full kerf blade, and can be a very suitable choice for a home shop, smaller saws, and even in many commercial settings where wood consumption is a concern. Your splitter or riving knife width should also be part of the consideration. Choosing a blade that’s thinner than the splitter blade can cause the board to stop mid cut if the board binds on the splitter. There are legitimate arguments for both kerf widths, and the choice will come down to your personal preference and circumstances.

FWIW, I've used several excellent examples of both. My 2hp contractor saw and 1-3/4hp hybrid has a noticeably easier time spinning TK blades, and I gotten great cutting results with several of them. Now that I've got a 3hp cabinet saw, I tend to buy only full kerf blades for it, but I've not noticed any improvement in cut quality when I switched.

Thanks so Much. Great Information!! Going for thin!!