gardnesd Posted January 3, 2011 Report Share Posted January 3, 2011 Making some built ins for the wife. She wants an off-white finish. Recently bought a gravity HVLP. The manual says that it works with "most oil based paints and finishes". Called the manufacturer and they said not to use latex. Did say water based and oil based paints. I thought latex was a water based paint. What is the easiest thing to do here? Would like to use the sprayer but can paint by hand if necessary. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jimmykx250 Posted January 3, 2011 Report Share Posted January 3, 2011 How many stages does your hvlp have. I believe you need a pretty decent ( 3 or 4 stage) unit to push water base paint. Although I would think it's all a matter of thinning the paint properly. If it's thin enough it will spray. Read the paint maunfacturers specs on thinning Oh and latex is water as far as i know. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PaulMarcel Posted January 3, 2011 Report Share Posted January 3, 2011 Is it a conversion HVLP (i.e., connects to a compressor) or a turbine? You'd have to check your turbine to know if it can do latex. Latex is thick. With a conversion HVLP like I use, you need a big nozzle and wide-open flow, although admittedly my gun tends to need a larger nozzle and flow than most other people's for the same fluid (mine's categorized as LVLP so it runs on a smaller compressor). You can thin the paint a bit, within reason. Floetrol helps, too, but can affect the sheen depending on the paint's original sheen and color. There are a lot of stains that are whitewash or other variants of off-white. Maybe do that, which would let the grain show through, and clearcoat it. Probably more durable, too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gardnesd Posted January 3, 2011 Author Report Share Posted January 3, 2011 What about a traditianal oil based white paint. And it is a compressor driven sprayer. Is it a conversion HVLP (i.e., connects to a compressor) or a turbine? You'd have to check your turbine to know if it can do latex. Latex is thick. With a conversion HVLP like I use, you need a big nozzle and wide-open flow, although admittedly my gun tends to need a larger nozzle and flow than most other people's for the same fluid (mine's categorized as LVLP so it runs on a smaller compressor). You can thin the paint a bit, within reason. Floetrol helps, too, but can affect the sheen depending on the paint's original sheen and color. There are a lot of stains that are whitewash or other variants of off-white. Maybe do that, which would let the grain show through, and clearcoat it. Probably more durable, too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PaulMarcel Posted January 3, 2011 Report Share Posted January 3, 2011 With a compressor, I'd guess you can get the umph needed to push the paint through, but you'd still need a bigger nozzle. I've never worked with oil-based paint other than rattle-can stuff, and you don't want to do that Here's a viscosity chart from Jeff Jewitt. The viscosity numbers would be helpful if you have a viscosity cups. I don't have one so usually there's some testing (hmm, might be why I stick to the same stuff ) If you go off the touchy-feely names, "thick" requires a 2.2mm nozzle, which is what I need for Latex. So Floetrol won't work in an oil-based paint, but Flood does make an oil-based version called Penetrol. If you don't have some of the paint, see if you can go get a small pint of it so you can try it out in the gun. That's the best way. You might get lucky and find a pint of the same paint base in those clearance shelves of wrong-colored paint. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AceHoleInOne Posted January 3, 2011 Report Share Posted January 3, 2011 Latex wall paint and wood paints are 2 different animals, not saying one is better than the other, it just has different features for different jobs. Wood paint typically will stick to just about anything and most have some exterior durability. If your going to “paint” use something like a General Finishes Milk Paint and topcoat with the water-based General Finishes High Performance. If your going to spray try the General Finishes pigmented acrylic is formulated for cabinet work and is made to spray. For added protection, some guys like to apply a topcoat over it. -Ace- Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gardnesd Posted January 3, 2011 Author Report Share Posted January 3, 2011 Thanks guys, this helps. I think the biggest thing I learned from asking a few questions(called local ben moore store) is there is a big difference between paint drying and paint curing. That little tidbit right there is an eye opener. For some of you pros you might be laughing at me, but I'm rather new to the hobby. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PaulMarcel Posted January 3, 2011 Report Share Posted January 3, 2011 I think I learnt the dry vs cure of paint as a kid when my dad painted my closet shelf and we put books on after they dried the next day I still have a few of those books; easy to tell by looking at the bottom of the covers I recently painted a shelf in my closet; I had a flash-back. While I gave it about a week to 'cure', I still gave it a shot of shellac on the top. Whether it works or not will take a couple months to figure out Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jim Heinbuch Posted January 4, 2011 Report Share Posted January 4, 2011 Thanks guys, this helps. I think the biggest thing I learned from asking a few questions(called local ben moore store) is there is a big difference between paint drying and paint curing. That little tidbit right there is an eye opener. For some of you pros you might be laughing at me, but I'm rather new to the hobby. Most of us aren't laughing, we're too busy saying "I never knew that before." Thanks for asking -Jim Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Bennett Posted January 4, 2011 Report Share Posted January 4, 2011 Hi I have a Fuji 4 stage HVLP and last year had a client supply their own colour mix latex paint. It was mixed by a company called Dulux in the UK and was especially for kitchens and bathrooms and guaranteed washable etc. I thinned it gently through a viscosity cup until it timed out the same as cellulose car paint. Worked a treat using a 1mm nozzle and was definitely washable after a few weeks to be sure it had cured. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gardnesd Posted January 5, 2011 Author Report Share Posted January 5, 2011 Sounds like rocket science to me. I don't think viscosity cups are allowed in South Carolina. Hi I have a Fuji 4 stage HVLP and last year had a client supply their own colour mix latex paint. It was mixed by a company called Dulux in the UK and was especially for kitchens and bathrooms and guaranteed washable etc. I thinned it gently through a viscosity cup until it timed out the same as cellulose car paint. Worked a treat using a 1mm nozzle and was definitely washable after a few weeks to be sure it had cured. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Bennett Posted January 5, 2011 Report Share Posted January 5, 2011 Sounds like rocket science to me. I don't think viscosity cups are allowed in South Carolina. Try a 36" double D with just a pin prick in the front. You'll be fine Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gardnesd Posted January 6, 2011 Author Report Share Posted January 6, 2011 We're not ready to get pregnant again, but thanks. Try a 36" double D with just a pin prick in the front. You'll be fine Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr. Mc Jones Posted January 17, 2011 Report Share Posted January 17, 2011 You might also get a hold of the manufacturer and ask if they sell a different needle/nozzle set up for water base products. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr. Mc Jones Posted January 17, 2011 Report Share Posted January 17, 2011 Latex wall paint and wood paints are 2 different animals, not saying one is better than the other, it just has different features for different jobs. Wood paint typically will stick to just about anything and most have some exterior durability. If your going to “paint” use something like a General Finishes Milk Paint and topcoat with the water-based General Finishes High Performance. If your going to spray try the General Finishes pigmented acrylic is formulated for cabinet work and is made to spray. For added protection, some guys like to apply a topcoat over it. -Ace- Do you have to thin it or use a undercoater? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AceHoleInOne Posted January 17, 2011 Report Share Posted January 17, 2011 Do you have to thin it or use a undercoater? Nope you don't have to thin. Nope you don't have to undercoat....but,....but,....its recommended by General Finishes you do or use a sanding sealer for better performance. -Ace- Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr. Mc Jones Posted January 17, 2011 Report Share Posted January 17, 2011 Thanks, Im gonna try it in a week or so. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr. Mc Jones Posted January 21, 2011 Report Share Posted January 21, 2011 Maybe I should start another thread but its pretty much the same topic. I am going to bid on a job for some built in book cases/shelving units. I like the enduro/ GF W/B finishes. The customer wants them in black. I havent spray the black GF/Enduro before. Is it the same as the white as far as technique and thinning N&N set up? Anyone fooled with the black finish before? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
maxomatic Posted April 1, 2011 Report Share Posted April 1, 2011 Ace - I'm following this thread, also trying to spray cabinets white, and I can't find the GF Enduro White Acrylic for sale ANYWHERE. do you know where to buy it? I can't even find it on the usual websites: amazon, rockler, woodcraft... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AceHoleInOne Posted April 1, 2011 Report Share Posted April 1, 2011 Well.....to my knowledge, you need to have a business account for some of the Enduro line products, or go the their website www.generalfinishes.com and look for a local "retail" distributor who may be able to get you the Enduro. If that fails. Call 800-783-6050 and deal direct with General Finishes. I'm sure something can be work out! -Ace- Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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