TMFoughty Posted January 11, 2011 Report Share Posted January 11, 2011 In your opinion, what is the best blade to cut hard maple / walnut? Looking for a finish blade. What blades hold up? Which ones are junk? I have a craftsman 10" saw. Thanks for any input.... Todd Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sac Posted January 11, 2011 Report Share Posted January 11, 2011 Are you ripping or crosscutting? Ideally, if you are ripping, would be to use a rip blade with about 24 teeth. If you are cross cutting, a crosscut blade with about 60-80 teeth. For the crosscut blade I would also recommend that you use a blade that has an ATB grind. this is Alternating Tooth Bevel. Also, when crosscutting, it is good to have a piece of scrap behind the workpiece to prevent tear out. ANd always use a zero clearance insert. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave's Not Here Posted January 11, 2011 Report Share Posted January 11, 2011 On the lines of what Sac said, I don't think that any one blade can be the ideal blade for all situations. Dedicated rip and crosscut blades would be the best way to go but a good quality general purpose blade will do both jobs just not as well. Most of the time a Ridge Carbide TS2000 is mounted to my saw but I also have dedicated rip and crosscut blades on hand if the need arises. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Beechwood Chip Posted January 11, 2011 Report Share Posted January 11, 2011 Also, how powerful is your saw (HP)? For a low powered saw I'd recommend thin kerf, for a higher powered saw full kerf. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Danny Hellyar Posted January 11, 2011 Report Share Posted January 11, 2011 Todd, Every saw blade comparison article I've read in the last 25 years has almost always put the Forest Woodworker II blade as the smoothest and best cutting blade on the market. I've used a No. one different blades over the years and I haven't found one yet that cuts any better. They are pricey but you won't have to do any edge sanding with this blade, provided your fence and miter slot alignment are dialed in properly. And your previous poster is correct in saying that with your Craftsman saw you should only use the thin kerf model. If you don't want to spend that much money then for a little less Freud makes some nice cutting blades as well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jab73180 Posted January 11, 2011 Report Share Posted January 11, 2011 freud does make a good blade. i bought my friend the fusion blade and it cuts like buddah. i beleive they make a thin kerf version of that too. i am tempted to try that on my lil ridgid TS. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
samhell Posted January 12, 2011 Report Share Posted January 12, 2011 freud does make a good blade. i bought my friend the fusion blade and it cuts like buddah. i beleive they make a thin kerf version of that too. i am tempted to try that on my lil ridgid TS. I use a 50 tooth fusion for my "general purpose" blade. I have an 80 tooth for cutting stuff I don't want to sand later Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jim DaddyO Posted January 12, 2011 Report Share Posted January 12, 2011 I bought 2 Freud thin kerfs last year and they have converted me. I am now a fan. They breathed new life into my low powered Craftsman TS. Also, they are 1/2 to 1/4 the price of a Forrest blade. I bought the ones with the anti kickback design (not the red ones) and I am very happy with them. One is a 24 tooth ripping, the other is a 40 tooth gen purpose. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
knotscott Posted January 12, 2011 Report Share Posted January 12, 2011 I have two blogs for you to read thru that might have some useful info: 1) Tips for picking a saw blade 2) My 2007 Table Saw Blade Comparison Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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