Making a corner desk - first major project.


Lucas Purpleheart

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On 1/30/2019 at 11:33 PM, drzaius said:

Many sliding miter saws do have a depth stop, but any I have tried have a lot of up/down flex against the stop. One could use it to cut dados or rabbits in theory, but they's certainly need to be tuned with a router plane to get consistent depth of cut.

And for that reason I don't think I could properly utilize mine to make the rabbets I want for this desk or boxes.

 

In any case, I have revised my plans. The left is the new, the right is the original. Now I am just trying to decide where to drill. Though, without the extra 2x4 supports, 4x4 solo instead of 2x4 in the revised plan might still be a viable option? I don't have a jointer or planer to smoothen them out.

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On 1/30/2019 at 7:36 PM, wtnhighlander said:

@drzaius is right, a miter saw is a poor (unsafe) choice for making grooves in small box parts.

That saw does appear to have an adjustable depth stop. The use I suggested is for cutting across the width of the vertical parts to form dadoes for the shelves. Set the stop so that the blade cuts about 1/4" deep, then nibble away the material, 1 kerf at a time, to make the dado.

I have never done dadoes so I am worried I am going to screw it up.

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Just butting the shelves up to the legs, glue has almost zero strength. Add pocket screws, and it is stonger, but not strong enough for durability. Housing the shelf in a dado, plus glue, plus screws, makes it tremendously stronger. Short of a shaped joint that uses wedging action to prevent the pieces from pulling apart, that's about as strong as you can get.

This makes a lot of sense. What would be the easiest way to make pocket screws? A jig?

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Regarding your last question: in your place, relying primarily on the miter saw, I would probably make the entire thing from S4S (surfaced 4 sides) stock, buying 1x4 material and gluing layers together for 4" thickness. Glue sections edge to edge to form the top and shelf panels. The layer forming the side of each leg that needs a dado can have sections cut out before glueing, spaced to form a dado as deep as the material is thick.

This seems like a better idea than mine of using 2x4's and 1x4x48 planks. I won't be able to joint and plane, only sand with an orbital.

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I assume you have a drill & screwdriver for assembly. The handsaw can help if you need to make a notch around any corners.

Yes I have a drill (plus kit with bits) and screwdriver. What do you mean about notches?

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Got clamps? If not, get a few extra 2x4s to place across the panel, perpendicular to the edge-glued joints. Then use a rope (550 paracord is good) to tie around the 2x4s and around the panel. Twist a stick through one of the loops of rope to wind it tight. Check youtube for examples. Japanese craftsmen have used stick and rope clamps for ages.

 

Yes, I have about 7 clamps or so. That is a good trick as well.

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On 2/3/2019 at 11:56 PM, Lucas Purpleheart said:

Yes:

  • There are four common board thickness settings built into the jig: 1/2”, 3/4” 1” and 1-1/2” (12, 19, 27, 38mm)

You need different length screws depending on the material thickness.

https://www.kregtool.com/about-us/news/kreg-tool-tips-joining/choose-the-correct-screw-length.aspx

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21 hours ago, JohnG said:

Yes:

  • There are four common board thickness settings built into the jig: 1/2”, 3/4” 1” and 1-1/2” (12, 19, 27, 38mm)

You need different length screws depending on the material thickness.

https://www.kregtool.com/about-us/news/kreg-tool-tips-joining/choose-the-correct-screw-length.aspx

Can you make a screw pocket on the side of a 2x4? Or is it recommended to only do it on the wide side

 

Also, I just made the calculations for how much lumber I will need, since I am doing S4S I should probably buy from Menards or Home Depot?

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