Glue buffet leg pieces back together, replace portion, or all?

[Vonda Clark Youngkin]

Looking for advice, suggestions, and recommendations.  Not an expert wood crafter, but can follow directions.   I have considered gluing, but I know a good glue would hold up longer than the wood, which, has obviously shown it's weakness.  I then considered cutting off the "block" at the top of the leg, but wasn't sure the best way to re-attach a new one - hence the dowel in the last picture.  It looks like that is how the blocks were attached to the top of the legs - am I mistaken?

I had picked up a Pressure-Treated Square Classic Out-Door Deck Spindle from home depot (pictured leaning against opposite side of chest in second picture) as possible replacement for block, as the size was "almost" the same - but it's probably not the best way to go.)

I am open to any suggestion and options, and they're sincerely appreciated.  Respectfully request type of tool required to perform any action suggested.  Obviously, I would like to keep as much original as possible, but not for cost reasons.  I have a table saw, miter saw, and drill but no drill press.  Thanks!  Vonda

Picked up this piece, as you can see, some of the legs need help.  The picture below is from a back-middle legs.  But the others that are broken or cracked also have screws through where previous owner attempted to "help."

 

The leg below is a corner piece, and was designed to be attached via tongue and groove.  As you can tell bu the tongue picture, a piece of the leg is still attached via glue, while another piece is broken from the leg, resting in front of it.

 

Below is how the above corner leg and tongue of the buffet should look.

[wtnhighlander]

It appears that these legs broke because they used a 'cheating' form of mortice and tenon, where the mortice is cut with a router from the end of the leg. Simple machine operation than a proper closed mortice, but leaves the leg weakened against splitting, as you discovered.

The ideal repair would be to ruen replacement legs from solid timber, and use closed mortices for the apron attachment. Barring that, I would try making new upper "blocks" and dowel them into the turned leg as the originals appear to be. But your blocks should have closed mortices, with at least 1/4" of wood at each end. Since you aren't experienced at this, I'll suggest a simpler method.

Purchase a "flush trim" saw from you local home center. Cuts on the pull stroke and is very flexible. Use it to remove the existing tenons from the apron pieces. Or use an was if you can remove the apron from the case. Make the cut flush with the apron shoulder, then use dowels to attach it to the new upper blocks.

I would also suggest NOT drilling the center dowel for attachment of the turning all the way through the block. That just leaves it easier to split again.

[drzaius]

Doing a good long lasting repair that respects the original piece is a complex job. It looks like those aprons are secured with screws, so hopefully they can be removed. You could do as @wtnhighlander suggested & cut off the tenons & replace with dowels, or you could cut back the tops & bottoms of the tenons to give them a shoulder of 3/8" or so.

Please, please, please, do not use the pressure treated turning from HD. It is not an appropriate wood, it will not be strong enough for this application, and it will be ugly. A new turning, all out of one piece, complete with the block will be best. But if you can't get a replacement turned, then cut off the block & attach a new one with a dowel. Cutting mortises in the new block is certainly doable with few tools, a couple of youtubes, and some practice. I would keep the end of the mortise back at least 1/2" to 3/4" from the bottom (leg end) of the block because there is a lot going on there with the dowel through the middle & the mortises.

If your joints end up a little loose, then use epoxy to glue it all together. It has much better gap filling properties than wood glue. Do not use polyurethane glue if there are gaps. You'll see some say that because it foams up a bit while curing it will fill the gaps. It will fill the gaps alright, but that foamy glue has little strength. Empirical testing has proved this.

Good luck with this & please let us know how things turn out.

[Dave H]

Watch some of this guys videos he knows his trade https://www.youtube.com/user/johnsonrestoration