Cabinet doors and drawer fronts direction


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It was solid without any kick back. During the first tests the stock would move so i added another clamp and if you look closely i was using a couple of wedges between the clamp and the board to hold the board super tight to the fence.  the cut off piece just moved out of the way when I would slide in the next board (some of the time) I added the blade guard too much spinning blade to close to my fingers. 2 screws and it comes off.  I also glues a strip of sandpaper to the fence during one of the revisions. Over the holidays I  had purchased a a Freud P410 Next gen Fusion blade. Very happy with it. Very very little blow out if any even in the plywood i am using for the panels. Which i started cutting today.

What I can think of as to why there isn't any binding or kick-back. There isn't any pressure into the blade, the stock lif firmly locked down onto the sled and onto the fence allowing no movement.  When loading the stock its pressed against the block but not forced. The block is firmly attached to the sled and not applying a loaded pressure back towards the blade. until I had the stock firmly in place the top of the stock always wanted to move down and to the right and the bottom up  As the blade removed material there was nothing to bind with. The cut off piece moved verily little. I would push the stock through the cut pull the sled back flip the stock to cut the other side, pull the sled back load my next piece never turning off the saw.

The jigs took an enormous amount of time to get right compared to doing the cut through all the pieces. I went through a great deal of trial and error think about it repeat but once it was right a few hours of easy time to get through all the pieces. There is a great deal of satisfaction of going through this journey.

Back to cutting panels and thinking about what's next. Which is since i always have and issue with gluing a frame together i already slotted all the boards for biscuits and glued up left stile to top rail and right stile to bottom rail. The panels will be maple and I put 5 coats of brushing lacquer then sanded out most of it then sprayed 3 coats rubbed it out then another 3  coats  of sprayed lacquer onto the sheets that i and cutting into the panels. Oh i have to make a jig for the hinges....





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Here is the bottoms. I drilled for the hinges and mounted everything up - since it my first time I wanted to see how everything fit. The center door overlapped each other too wide is better than too narrow but one is 3/16" shorter than the other. I was able to cut the rails out with a jig saw and not damage the panel or stiles. the door on the left  had an opening of 8" and had to make some adjustment to get slide out organizer installed. At that time i gave no thought about the door and as soon as i started to mount the door I knew they were not going to slide out. However the company make and door mount for the cabinet / trash can tray which don't have the wrap around aluminum (which budges a bit at the corner's so i busted the welds on the front mount bars and  and bent the them to fit between the two mounts and you reall cdant see because its up against the door (I'll need to post pictures). the mounts have an bunch of extra holes so i was able to tie the into the mounts and problem solved . so now i need to take everything apart and finish it or do I.  Is finishing wax a real option for cabinet doors in a kitchen?


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