gardnesd Posted March 27, 2011 Report Share Posted March 27, 2011 However, I need some advice replacing the motor. I can buy a new one from dewalt or other places for $350-500. Or could fit it with a different make. Any ideas on a quality motor that would be best for the situation? 1.75hp is what came on the saw. Could I safely go to 2hp??? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SawSucker Posted March 28, 2011 Report Share Posted March 28, 2011 Are you talking about one of those plastic and aluminum Jobsite table saws ? $300-$500 for a motor ? Whats the model number of the saw ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gardnesd Posted March 28, 2011 Author Report Share Posted March 28, 2011 Dw 746. May not make them anymore. Its a heavy hybrid I guess? Are you talking about one of those plastic and aluminum Jobsite table saws ? $300-$500 for a motor ? Whats the model number of the saw ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
soonerdg Posted March 28, 2011 Report Share Posted March 28, 2011 When the motor on my contractor saw quit I replaced it with one from Northern Tool. I've been very happy with it. They have many so just make sure you get the one that meets your specs. Specifically the Max RPM. Many of theirs don't spin as fast as your table saw motor. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
harryangel69 Posted March 28, 2011 Report Share Posted March 28, 2011 The horsepower should not matter as long as the motor pulley is still inline with the blade pulley and the motor speed is in the same range(within a hundred). Odds are you won't know the difference in induction motor brands unless you are using it all day everyday. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gardnesd Posted March 28, 2011 Author Report Share Posted March 28, 2011 Does NT keep them in stock. So I could go look at and compare the old motor to what I'm buying???? When the motor on my contractor saw quit I replaced it with one from Northern Tool. I've been very happy with it. They have many so just make sure you get the one that meets your specs. Specifically the Max RPM. Many of theirs don't spin as fast as your table saw motor. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SawSucker Posted March 28, 2011 Report Share Posted March 28, 2011 I think that you need to also make sure that if your thinking about an aftermarket motor that you also verify the frame type ( mount ), which is usually displayed on the Spec label on the motor. Then worry about HP, RPM, and arbor size. Baldor, Marathon, and Dayton are good brands to look for. Have you takein the motor to a local electric motor shop ? It might just be something simple, like the dust needs to be blown out of it, or a bad Capacitor. I don't know what your electrical situation is, but running the saw on an outlet that has other things on that same circuit, and or an inadequate extension cord are things that are hard on motors. A table saw of that size should really be on a dedicated circuit, meaning a breaker with only one outlet on it and nothing else. I think that alot of people fail to consider these things and think that they need a larger saw because their current Contractor's saw, or Hybrid saw doesn't have enough torque to get through some stuff. If the saw is wired correctly, and the fence is adjusted, plus a good sharp blade, you should be able to cut just about anything with ease, if not, then maybe the bandsaw is what you should be useing for those types of deep cuts, such as resawing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gardnesd Posted March 28, 2011 Author Report Share Posted March 28, 2011 Friend was attempting to switch from 110 to 220. Dedicated circuit. Motor smoked and then quit. Don't knowif that helps. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BenMinshall Posted March 28, 2011 Report Share Posted March 28, 2011 The best thing to do would be to check your yellow pages for a local repair motor shop. It's usually not worth it to repair a motor that size, but those guys often have a backroom full of used motors and they can probably find one to fit no problem. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SawSucker Posted March 28, 2011 Report Share Posted March 28, 2011 Friend was attempting to switch from 110 to 220. Dedicated circuit. Motor smoked and then quit. Don't knowif that helps. He must of done something wrong. It doesn't really matter if you use 115V or 230V. The key is that it's a dedicated circuit, or atleast a circuit that can handle the load. If I remember right, the saw draws about 13 amps, on startup and during a heavy load as a guess it's probably pulling 16 amps. If your running it on a circuit that is also running lights, radio, fan, dust collector, air filtration machine, etc, a 20 amp circuit isn't enough. I eventually had an electrician wire a panel box in the shop and split everything up there. I'm guessing that there is about eight breakers in the box, and three of them are 230V dedicated. Before I had the shop rewired when I would turn on the table saw, the lights would dim, and if I run something pretty tough through the table saw sometimes it would trip the breaker in the house running to the garage/shop, it wouldn't happen alot, but I did learn how to baby boards through. Now I don't have those worries, I've never tripped a breaker since, the saw powers up immediately, and I don't have to baby boards through. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Beechwood Chip Posted March 29, 2011 Report Share Posted March 29, 2011 It doesn't really matter if you use 115V or 230V. ... If I remember right, the saw draws about 13 amps, on startup and during a heavy load as a guess it's probably pulling 16 amps. If I understand correctly, if it draws 16 amps at 115V, then it draws 8 amps at 230V. That's the big advantage of 230V - it reduces the amps so the motor isn't as likely to be restricted by the wire gauge, length of runs, etc. Do I have that right? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SawSucker Posted March 29, 2011 Report Share Posted March 29, 2011 If I understand correctly, if it draws 16 amps at 115V, then it draws 8 amps at 230V. That's the big advantage of 230V - it reduces the amps so the motor isn't as likely to be restricted by the wire gauge, length of runs, etc. Do I have that right? Thats possible Beech. All I know is that I asked the electrician what the advantage is and he didn't really think there was much other then the saveings in copper on long runs, so your probably on to something there. If I'm not mistakein though both voltages provide the same amount of electricity, it's just that with 230V the amps are split. I've also noticed that 1 1/2 hp seems to be the cutoff for 115V / 230V, at 2 hp you start running into 230V only motors. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PaulMarcel Posted March 29, 2011 Report Share Posted March 29, 2011 The whole power equation is voltage times amperes. If you double the voltage, you half the amperes. Usually the motor labels will indicate the maximum current draw for the selected voltage. You'll notice the amperes are half for the 220V configuration. In a garage shop, like mine, the 110V configuration was a nuisance since the startup surge would often trip the breaker (my garage breakers were 15A; new local code is 20A); even if it was the only thing on the circuit; my bandsaw never got used because of this. On a 220V circuit, a 15A breaker is double the stated maximum; plenty of room. Slow-trip ("motor") breakers help, but don't eliminate the problem. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BenMinshall Posted April 1, 2011 Report Share Posted April 1, 2011 didn't really think there was much other then the saveings in copper on long runs Motors are slightly more efficient at higher voltages, but it is not a huge amount. Probably well within a single-digit percentage improvement. The motor will also start a little easier and tend to bog less on higher voltage. both voltages provide the same amount of electricity, it's just that with 230V the amps are split. Both voltages can deliver the same power (watts). 240V circuits use half the amps to deliver the same power as a 120V circuit. One horsepower motor rating is roughly equivalent to 1000 watts in a typical motor (accounting for inefficiency), you have a 1.5HP motor it should draw approximately 1500 watts. If wired for 120V: 120 volts * x amps = 1500 watts; x = 12.5 amps. The same motor wired for 240V: 240V * x amps = 1500 watts; x = 6.25 amps. Note that these are approximate values, always use the manufacturer nameplating rating as the construction of the motor can cause these numbers to vary. I've also noticed that 1 1/2 hp seems to be the cutoff for 115V / 230V, at 2 hp you start running into 230V only motors. At 2HP you would be approaching 20A on a 120V circuit. As most existing homes only have 15A circuits, and few newer homes have 20A circuits a dedicated circuit would need to be installed for that tool anyway. So, if you're going to the trouble of installing a dedicated circuit, it might as well be 240V which is the most efficient option in a residential setting. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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