tim0625 Posted April 13, 2011 Report Share Posted April 13, 2011 I'm considering a purchase of another table saw that the guy has stored under his shed. It's been there a while and the cast iron table has a lot of light surface rust. What's the best way to take this table to shiny before the Johnson's Paste Wax? Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TimV Posted April 13, 2011 Report Share Posted April 13, 2011 I've restored several cast iron surfaces using a straight razor blade successfully. Use one with a holder like this one: Razor Scraper It really saves your hands. Use it at a fairly high angle but not too high or you'll catch. Flip the blades over and change blades frequently for the best results. Then after all the rust is scraped off, I'll sand 120, 220 with a random orbital sander, then 220 and 500 by hand. Finally use an abrasive, green scotch-brite pad on it. And top coat it with wax as you mentioned. Tim Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tim0625 Posted April 13, 2011 Author Report Share Posted April 13, 2011 I've restored several cast iron surfaces using a straight razor blade successfully. Use one with a holder like this one: Razor Scraper It really saves your hands. Use it at a fairly high angle but not too high or you'll catch. Flip the blades over and change blades frequently for the best results. Then after all the rust is scraped off, I'll sand 120, 220 with a random orbital sander, then 220 and 500 by hand. Finally use an abrasive, green scotch-brite pad on it. And top coat it with wax as you mentioned. Tim Pretty straight forward...but when you say "use an abrasive"...are you referring to (at that stage) using only the scotch-brite pad or a metal polisher type substance ON/WITH the scotch-brite pad? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rick LoDico Posted April 13, 2011 Report Share Posted April 13, 2011 I attach some 600 grit wet/dry sandpaper to a block of wood and spray some WD-40 on the surface. Cleans things up real nice. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tim0625 Posted April 13, 2011 Author Report Share Posted April 13, 2011 I attach some 600 grit wet/dry sandpaper to a block of wood and spray some WD-40 on the surface. Cleans things up real nice. 600G will get us to shiny? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Don Z. Posted April 14, 2011 Report Share Posted April 14, 2011 I've used TopSaver in the past. I thought it worked well... http://www.amazon.com/Empire-Manufacturing-TSS-8D-Complete-TopSaver/dp/B0000EI96N/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&s=hi&qid=1302755641&sr=1-2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
harryangel69 Posted April 14, 2011 Report Share Posted April 14, 2011 What I have always done is use a fine wet/dry sandpaper on a large block with an oil based "wet" like wd40. You have to think of like a car finish. If you make one stroke you make the same stroke across the whole table. It also depends on your definition of light rust. If it is really light just use a scotch bright pad and a little lube. Spend some time working the top. It is not a ten minute job. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rick LoDico Posted April 15, 2011 Report Share Posted April 15, 2011 600G will get us to shiny? What do you mean shiny? You'll never get a TS top to look like a PM66 but 600 and WD40 will get you an excellent surface. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TimV Posted April 15, 2011 Report Share Posted April 15, 2011 Pretty straight forward...but when you say "use an abrasive"...are you referring to (at that stage) using only the scotch-brite pad or a metal polisher type substance ON/WITH the scotch-brite pad? No compound with the pad. I use just the scotch brite pad. I've even cut one into a circle the same size of my 5" random orbital sandpaper and it sticks fairly well onto the hook and loop on the sander. It stays pretty well for a while until it finally lets go. Then I use one by hand going in the direction of the grinding marks if you can see them. Usually the tops are blanchard ground which leaves an arcing pattern so I use the scotch brite pad in circles along those arcs. And my opinon about using the sandpaper. You don't continue to use the sandpaper to remove large quantities of steel. You should only use it to remove the remnants of rust. And switch to the finer grit to remove the larger grit marks. You're hardly removing any metal, in fact over such a large surface area, you'll never notice it. Unless of course you goof and dig an edge into the steel. Tim Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
harryangel69 Posted April 15, 2011 Report Share Posted April 15, 2011 The other thing I have done is get the diamond stones from Harbor freight. They are not glued to the plastic very well. One little bend and it will pop off the backing. Take the finest grit and a honing lube a go to town. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nateswoodworks Posted April 17, 2011 Report Share Posted April 17, 2011 Here is a PowrKraft 8 inch Table Saw that I restored recently, the top feels as smooth as glass now. Link to Saw Nice job on your TS. I agree with the wd40 and fine sandpaper moving up through the grits. Several yrs ago my dad got his hands on a small jointer (he likes to tinker in woodworking) and asked me to get it brought back to life. It was in very rough shape so I actually started off with honing oil and my oil stones. It worked great, got the surface of the jointer real nice and flattened the little bit of a dish out of the center of one of my stones at the same time. Just a thought. I have also heard guys here talk about evaporust and naval jelly, have never used them but others swear by it. Good luck. Nate Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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