First Hand Plane


Renzo

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Hi

Im pretty new to woodworking and have gotten setup with power tools, but i'm interested in hand tools as well.

I'm looking at getting my first block hand plane.

Just trying to decide if I should get a standard Stanley Block Plane from Lee Valley for $37 http://www.leevalley.com/en/wood/page.aspx?p=41227&cat=1,230,41182,41188

Or spend the money and get the Veritas Standard Block Plane ($145). http://www.leevalley.com/en/wood/page.aspx?p=47881&cat=1,230,41182,41188

Suggestions?

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I have no doubt the Veritas is a nicer plane, but it's a lot of money for something you're just getting into. I've been using hand planes for a few years now and am getting by nicely with an older Record 09-1/2, Record 60-1/2 and my grandfather's Stanley 220. You might even consider grabbing a vintage used plane. Like anything else, setup and quality of the cutter are the determining factors in final performance.

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I would highly advise avoiding the newer Stanley planes most have manufacturing problems that are going to require work to fix. The Veritas block plane is more expensive, but it is extremely nice and would last you a lifetime. I might also suggest looking at the Veritas Apron plane it is only $81 (USD) and would be a good place to start. In addition, Lie-Nielsen also makes an apron plane that is a little more expensive at $95 (USD) for iron and $115 (USD) for brass, but would work equally as well.

If the newer planes are a bit too much then have a look into the antiques. I would advise and antique Stanley 60 1/2 low angle block plane. Walt at Brass City should be able to hook you up, in fact he has one listed for $40 (USD) right now.

A caveat, if you by an antique plane or a new Stanley you are going to need to learn how to sharpen right away. If you buy one of the newer planes it will come with a suitable edge that you can use it for a while (one maybe two projects) before it needs to be honed. Sharpening supplies are another post in and of itself.

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I agree with Josh and Knotscott. I have a couple of those stanley blocks and they took a lot to get them working well. They are now banished to my tool bags for when I'm going to go fix something at my parent's house. If your budget allows the Veritas then I would go that route. And, I would go with the low angle block - it will be more useful in the long run. If you can't afford the Veritas (and when you're starting out, there are so many tools to buy that it's easy to choke on that price tag), then I would suggest going with a old, used block instead of the new stanleys. If you want to try your hand at buying and tuning an old, used block, then shoot me a message and I'll get you on the right track.

You know, as I'm typing this I'm forgetting the Anants. I have a few Anant planes that were surprisingly good when I got them and the irons were pretty sharp right out of the box. They aren't the quality of the Veritas or Lie Nielson blocks, but their castings are solid, they tune up easily, and their irons hold a decent edge. That's another option for the same price as the cheap Stanleys.

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HI

Yeah honestly that was my thinking. The bigger investment up front isn't a huge deal when you consider it will outlast me :)

I'll take a look at the apron plane. What's the advantage over the standard block plane? Just cheaper, smaller and lighter?

While i was in lee valley drooling yesterady I picked up a 4 pack of their scrapers and i was impressed at how well they worked right out of the package.

Im doing a very simple project: A raised dog bowl feeder, and the two boards didn't glue up perfectly (one was maybe 1/32" slightly proud of the other) and the scrapers did a fine job of evening them out.

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The plane I use in my shop more than any other is an old Stanley 60 1/2. Half its japanning is gone but it works like a champ. I once bought a new Stanley to replace it. It was so bad I gave it away with a warning of its poor quality and went back to my old plane. I'd second the recommendation for the Veritas apron plane. I find the higher-priced Veritas block planes to simply be too large but I suppose that comes from my experience with the 60 1/2. If I ever buy another adjustable mouth block plane it'll be the LN but it's pricey.

Cheers --- Larry "Woodnbits"

http://www.woodnbits.com/blog

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I bought a 60 1/2 on ebay for around 20.00, a week rebuilding it and it's like a new, old plane B) Like most, I can't drop two bills on a block plane.

Matter of fact, I've got a rusty old sweetheart block plane I plan on rebuilding this winter.

If you decide to go that route, shoot me a message. I can help with the rebuild process. Not hard, just chems and elbow grease! :P

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I have recently been trying to work with hand planes. Is there a site anywhere, or can anyone supply me with a quick tutorial, to explain how to use and sharpen hand planes. I can't seem to get that nice curl of planed wood and I'm fairly certain it is because my plane(s) are either not sharp enough or I am using them improperly, or both.

Thank you.

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Excellent choice for your first hand plane. I bought one of the English made Stanley block planes from Lowe's before they stopped stocking them, and I really couldn't be happier with it. It had it's rough areas, but it has yet to let me down. If you've got the cash, absolutely grab a premium block plane. But ultimately, even a crusty but trusty 60 1/2 off of eBay will cut like a champ if it's not in too bad of shape.

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