scottie56005 Posted May 9, 2011 Report Share Posted May 9, 2011 I have screwed the fixed base to the top and everything is fine there. I have used the router before on the table with "regular" bits and no problems of falling. I just did some passes with a 3/8" upcut mortise bit and noticed that the motor was falling every pass. I do have a make shift brace so the motor would never fall to the ground but it is not in a lift or any other type of component. The motor is in the fixed base and locked in as it would be if it was used in the upright position. My guess is that the upcut bit is somehow causing the motor to move around in the base and it is walking down the teeth. It dropped three different times on me and at about 1/4" per shot! Not cool! Using routers is something totally new to me and would appreciate any input that I can get. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rmac Posted May 9, 2011 Report Share Posted May 9, 2011 Are you sure it's the motor falling and not just the bit slipping in the chuck? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scottie56005 Posted May 9, 2011 Author Report Share Posted May 9, 2011 Are you sure it's the motor falling and not just the bit slipping in the chuck? Yes. The bit could only fall about 1/8" at the most if that was the case. It is a 1/2" shank, 3/8" cut, by 1 1/4" depth. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rmac Posted May 9, 2011 Report Share Posted May 9, 2011 I dunno, then. I don't have that particular router. Hopefully somebody who does can help. -- Russ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scottie56005 Posted May 9, 2011 Author Report Share Posted May 9, 2011 I dunno, then. I don't have that particular router. Hopefully somebody who does can help. -- Russ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rmason Posted May 9, 2011 Report Share Posted May 9, 2011 Take your router apart and clean it between the motor and the base. Then lightly sand both surfaces w/ 180 grit sandpaper. Did I say lightly sand it? Yes, lightly that is all that is needed, do not lubricate it in any way. It should then grab and work like it is supposed to when you tighten it. On Porter Cable routers the tightening nut is kind of hard to finger tighten enough to keep it from slipping, especially in the tight confines of a router table. Some people replace the wing nut w/ something larger. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
flairwoodworks Posted May 9, 2011 Report Share Posted May 9, 2011 I have screwed the fixed base to the top and everything is fine there. I have used the router before on the table with "regular" bits and no problems of falling. I just did some passes with a 3/8" upcut mortise bit and noticed that the motor was falling every pass. I do have a make shift brace so the motor would never fall to the ground but it is not in a lift or any other type of component. The motor is in the fixed base and locked in as it would be if it was used in the upright position. My guess is that the upcut bit is somehow causing the motor to move around in the base and it is walking down the teeth. It dropped three different times on me and at about 1/4" per shot! Not cool! Using routers is something totally new to me and would appreciate any input that I can get. I've experienced the same thing with a Bosch plunge router. The plunge lock in unable to lock it securely enough. You should be able to adjust the pressure that the clamping lever puts on the motor. I have the same router but I haven't used it in a router table. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mikem Posted May 9, 2011 Report Share Posted May 9, 2011 This sounds really scary to me, as it sounds like it is a setup to potential injury. Something is loose and slipping when it definitely should not be. As RedOak pointed out, clean up the router base as best as possible. Also, you may need to take several small passes. If you are doing the full 1.25" depth in one pass, that is a lot of stress on the bit. With a 3/8" bit, I would do it in four 3/8" deep passes. However, is more likely that the bit will break (still a dangerous situation) versus pushing the router down. It makes me wonder if the threads on the adjustment knob have been stripped. Before running the router again in your fixed base, thoroughly inspect it to make sure everything is as it should be. If it is not, I would look into replacing the fixed base on your router. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
usacomp2k3 Posted May 9, 2011 Report Share Posted May 9, 2011 I found my Craftsman to slip about .25" over the course of 15 minutes of usage. Mounted to a fixed table, and going to see if that helps. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
joestyles Posted May 10, 2011 Report Share Posted May 10, 2011 My craftsman router is mounted in a bench top table and I only use it for round over it used to do the same thing. I used the sanding method and replaced the wing nut with a regular nut the combo keeps it in place now. Some fixed base routers were not well thought out for use in a table. The first time I had the motor drop out was a bit scary but the bench kept the motor from going too far (thank god). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vic Posted May 10, 2011 Report Share Posted May 10, 2011 It sounds like you just need to tighten the body that holds the router motor. All the routers I have can get loose if they aren't tightened well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scottie56005 Posted May 10, 2011 Author Report Share Posted May 10, 2011 Well I have come to conclusions that I got what I paid for.....kinda :/ Just to kind of touch on everyones information above, The base clamp has a simple torx screw that I ended up turning in 2 rotations. That was all I could do because anymore and the motor would not fit back into the housing. There really are no threads on the micro depth adjustment. Its a plastic over sized screw that runs up and down on the notched step plate on the motor. Looking back I guess this was a common sense thing but this is my first router so I really didn't know exactly what to look for and why. When I was shopping for my router I read a story about one dropping out of the table. So after I got my top built and installed I made a movable security/safety brace under the motor so IF it ever did fall out of the base it would not go anywhere or cause any damage. I guess I will just have to keep an eye on the fit every time I put it in there to make sure it is super snug. And here I thought I could not go wrong with my first router being PC. On a side note, I am taking the router back to Rockler Wednesday to get it swapped out because the two part on/off switch was faulty from the get go. There is a red plastic tab that the switch is connected to and that fits around the pin that goes into the shaft. Well that tab was formed funny and not flat to the pin so the bottom switch is useless most of the time and pressing in the pin to change bits is not a job for one finger. It takes a light tap with the wrench to free it up. So with these two issues already on the table should I just look for a new router and dump the one I have? The swap out is free since this one is only two weeks old but you guys know better than I do. Any advise as to sticking with PC or perhaps a different brand I should look into? I like the plunge base option but at times it seems super duper pooper scooper top heavy. Live and learn comes into play here Sorry no Festool routers in this shop yet. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rmason Posted May 10, 2011 Report Share Posted May 10, 2011 Well I have come to conclusions that I got what I paid for.....kinda :/ Just to kind of touch on everyones information above, The base clamp has a simple torx screw that I ended up turning in 2 rotations. That was all I could do because anymore and the motor would not fit back into the housing. There really are no threads on the micro depth adjustment. Its a plastic over sized screw that runs up and down on the notched step plate on the motor. Looking back I guess this was a common sense thing but this is my first router so I really didn't know exactly what to look for and why. When I was shopping for my router I read a story about one dropping out of the table. So after I got my top built and installed I made a movable security/safety brace under the motor so IF it ever did fall out of the base it would not go anywhere or cause any damage. I guess I will just have to keep an eye on the fit every time I put it in there to make sure it is super snug. And here I thought I could not go wrong with my first router being PC. On a side note, I am taking the router back to Rockler Wednesday to get it swapped out because the two part on/off switch was faulty from the get go. There is a red plastic tab that the switch is connected to and that fits around the pin that goes into the shaft. Well that tab was formed funny and not flat to the pin so the bottom switch is useless most of the time and pressing in the pin to change bits is not a job for one finger. It takes a light tap with the wrench to free it up. So with these two issues already on the table should I just look for a new router and dump the one I have? The swap out is free since this one is only two weeks old but you guys know better than I do. Any advise as to sticking with PC or perhaps a different brand I should look into? I like the plunge base option but at times it seems super duper pooper scooper top heavy. Live and learn comes into play here Sorry no Festool routers in this shop yet. For a router table I would not use a plunge router. Save your money to buy a separate plunge router, that way you can leave the fixed base in the table full time. I have Freud fixed base router in my table and so far it works great. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scottie56005 Posted May 10, 2011 Author Report Share Posted May 10, 2011 For a router table I would not use a plunge router. Save your money to buy a separate plunge router, that way you can leave the fixed base in the table full time. I have Freud fixed base router in my table and so far it works great. Yeah I tried putting the plunge base in the first go round and it didn't work out so hot but thanks for the heads up. I also looked at Freud routers (not in person) and decided to pass on them simply because I thought they were to gimiky or what ever you want to call it. I will do some research now and look into them. Thanks again! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mikem Posted May 10, 2011 Report Share Posted May 10, 2011 As for a recommendation, I have two Bosch 1617 routers, and love them. The fixed based is meant to be used in a router table (even has a real basic above the table adjustment) The first one I have had for nearly 6 years now, and have never had an issue with it slipping in the router table. I bought a second one last year so I could fully dedicate the first one for the router table. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scottie56005 Posted May 11, 2011 Author Report Share Posted May 11, 2011 As for a recommendation, I have two Bosch 1617 routers, and love them. The fixed based is meant to be used in a router table (even has a real basic above the table adjustment) The first one I have had for nearly 6 years now, and have never had an issue with it slipping in the router table. I bought a second one last year so I could fully dedicate the first one for the router table. 10 4. Thanks for the info! I was leaning towards a Bosch unit before this but didnt like how low the wood handles were to the working surface, but I will look into your model and see if that holds true. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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