ediazf Posted June 13, 2011 Report Share Posted June 13, 2011 Hi guys, I build some multifunctional entertainment center.. it was nothing big, just a simple project for my room. I had laying some spar varnish so I fugured i use the rest of it for the project. I finished the cabinet just enough to build protection, and on the top I used 5 layers, nice sanded in between coats to get smooth kind of mirror finish (not looking for an absolutely lacquer mirror anyway). It came out beautifully, shiny, red oak colorish... great. Well one day later the finish was solid, I buffed it with some furniture cleaning abrasive cream and worked even better. The night I finally put my tv, my scanner/printer. Well today I lifted my tv to clean the top and the rubber feet were sticked to it and when lifted, the feets left a real ugly mark, the scanner also. what was the problem? spar varnish was a bad choice? maybe it felt solid but it hasn't cured? What do you recommend i do? thanks! I am leaving a picture of the tv marks... Edit: if it is a cure problem, I think it still hasn't, if I leave my wallet on it, in a matter of minutes it will lightly stick, not leave a mark of any kind, but still u can notice it sticked to it a little. Last hand of varnish was applied last friday 10th at 8 pm. The tv was installed saturday, like 8 pm (24 hrs later). Today when I lifted the tv, realized the problem, I put the tv back on a different spot, and the picture I took was taken couple of hours, and u can see that it left a mark on a spot that should be 2/3 days dry without contact. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
areynoldsre Posted June 13, 2011 Report Share Posted June 13, 2011 I've had problems with rubber feet on my desk which I finished with lacquer (deft). Curing time is likely one of your problems. I usually let my finishes cure for a week or two before putting anything on them. Even then I often end up putting a cloth down before putting anything heavy or anything with rubber feet. I'd wait till next week and see if it is any better. Your other choice is to refinish with something other than spar varnish. I wouldn't have used spar varnish but only because I've been told it is mostly for outdoor use. I am sure other have a better idea what might be better. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ediazf Posted June 13, 2011 Author Report Share Posted June 13, 2011 I've had problems with rubber feet on my desk which I finished with lacquer (deft). Curing time is likely one of your problems. I usually let my finishes cure for a week or two before putting anything on them. Even then I often end up putting a cloth down before putting anything heavy or anything with rubber feet. I'd wait till next week and see if it is any better. Your other choice is to refinish with something other than spar varnish. I wouldn't have used spar varnish but only because I've been told it is mostly for outdoor use. I am sure other have a better idea what might be better. my bad, I know it is recommended for exterior use, but I though i wouldn't be a big problem. Anyway, I will let it cure for a week and leave the tv where it is, no help on getting it out now :S In a week I will test in other place and see if it still sticks, it is easily tested, u leave it there 1 minute and it sticks, not enough to leave a mark, but sticks. If it still does, I will go and get another feet, I have saw ones that have like cotton or some kind of felt so that shouldn't be a big deal... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jhl.verona Posted June 13, 2011 Report Share Posted June 13, 2011 Be a little more generous - and patient. Most varnishes are hard enough to apply a new coat in 12/24 hours. But it takes 2/3 weeks for them to fully cure. I allowed a week for my Micro sleds, but it took another 5 days to arrive in the post. Fortunately no one used them for a further 3 weeks. Then the varnish was hard enough to run on ice without damage. John Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ediazf Posted June 13, 2011 Author Report Share Posted June 13, 2011 Be a little more generous - and patient. Most varnishes are hard enough to apply a new coat in 12/24 hours. But it takes 2/3 weeks for them to fully cure. I allowed a week for my Micro sleds, but it took another 5 days to arrive in the post. Fortunately no one used them for a further 3 weeks. Then the varnish was hard enough to run on ice without damage. John Well, learning about finishes the hard way... hahaha what I did was to fold down some cotton shirts under the the tv and printer. I will give it 2/3 weeks and test it. I wouldn't mind buying cotton feet or something, but still I want to know about varnish finish, using it and get it right for future projects. I did put it in a 15% mineral spirits mixture so thats how I was able to get 2 coats a day. One question I have, nothing to do with this topic itself, i am from chile, and here every product seems to be lacquer, or varnish. Many varnishes, poliurethane varnish, spar varnish, etc etc. If I want to use poly, for example the one that Marc uses on his shellac under poly, how do I look for it? it is some kind of just poly? or a poly varnish (barniz de poliuretano in spanish)is the same? haha it may seem stupid question but am not clear on that. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jhl.verona Posted June 13, 2011 Report Share Posted June 13, 2011 Well, learning about finishes the hard way... hahaha Me too. If we learn by our mistakes, then I'm really smart - or should be by now. One question I have, nothing to do with this topic itself, i am from chile, and here every product seems to be lacquer, or varnish. Many varnishes, poliurethane varnish, spar varnish, etc etc. If I want to use poly, for example the one that Marc uses on his shellac under poly, how do I look for it? it is some kind of just poly? or a poly varnish (barniz de poliuretano in spanish)is the same? haha it may seem stupid question but am not clear on that. I think there is simply a much greater variety of choice in the US. Or perhaps just more brand names. As far as I can see (about 1m on a good day) poly is poly. If they add more UV blockers, then it becomes 'flatting' in Italian (boat varnish or spar varnish). Some are tougher, and get called floor varnish (as in dance floor) - vernice per parquet. There are also bicomponent varnishes which I think are a relative of epoxy, though still polyurethane, but I've only found them in boat yards, and are thus usually more expensive. It's vernice poliuretanico here. Add 50% thinners and you get wiping varnish - which I've never seen sold as such in Italy. I always go for the flatting (as you did), an extra bit of UV protection won't harm - maybe I just get fooled by the name, thinking it will produce a flatter finish . Water based varnishes are good, too. Vernice ad acqua here. They are also less smelly. Here I still go for the flatting, but I've experimented by adding about 10% demineralised water, which makes it into a reasonable wiping varnish. The tin warns against doing this, but I've had good results to date. Don't be fooled by the milky colour, that's because the varnish is suspended in the water, it soon goes clear on the wood. John Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Don Z. Posted June 13, 2011 Report Share Posted June 13, 2011 The fact is that the oils in the varnish will take several weeks to fully cure. There's not much you can do to change that. Yes, you can get a second coat on fairly quickly, but if you want to put weight (like a TV on it), then patience is required... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hayashiox Posted June 14, 2011 Report Share Posted June 14, 2011 One question I have, nothing to do with this topic itself, i am from chile, and here every product seems to be lacquer, or varnish. Many varnishes, poliurethane varnish, spar varnish, etc etc. If I want to use poly, for example the one that Marc uses on his shellac under poly, how do I look for it? it is some kind of just poly? or a poly varnish (barniz de poliuretano in spanish)is the same? haha it may seem stupid question but am not clear on that. I don't know what brands you have in Chile. I've been to Argentina where they import some US products. Common hardware centers,or big box stores sell varnish called Polyurethane. They are the most durable finish,not hardest. They are also water and heat resistant. They are perfect for floors and dinning tables. Or any abuse. Now the labels are usually labeled with Bold titles" Polyurethane" Im guessing they called it barniz de poliuretano as the product title? Marc used the Minwax Polyurethane varnish as shown in the picture. Again I dont know what brands you have their. Spar varnish Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hayashiox Posted June 14, 2011 Report Share Posted June 14, 2011 To the OP Scuff sand the surface and apply another coat. THIS TIME DO NOT PUT anything on top for at least 2 weeks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AceHoleInOne Posted June 14, 2011 Report Share Posted June 14, 2011 Oil finishes have to gas off through the surface to dry. Depending on wood types, how many coats that are applied and the drying conditions at your shop, such as, temperature/ humidity even air movement. Porous woods take longer than non porous wood to gas off because the finish is pulled deeper into the wood. Spar varnish isn't the hardest of finishes. Its formulated for outdoor use and is an elastic finish (softer) that expands and contracts with outdoor woods seasonal changes. Do not apply any wax or abrasive creams (polishing compounds) to a fresh finish. It must be fully cured first. Finishes start to dry as soon as you put then on. Finishes can take 7 to 10 days to fully cure, maybe even up too 30 days in humid cool conditions. It just depends. Time is your friend longer the better. The only finish I know of that is fully cured in say 7 days or less, are probably UV forced cured finishes. I agree with SteveH. First let your finish cure. Then clean the surface with mineral spirits or naphtha to remove any of your polishing compound you buffed with. Give your surface a sand then wipe the surface clean with mineral spirits or naphtha. Let dry, then apply another coat. -Ace- Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ediazf Posted June 14, 2011 Author Report Share Posted June 14, 2011 here some examples of the products I mention... MINWAX POLY VARNISH ANOTHER ONE, WATER BASED this one says its for exterior use, but it is poly varnish anyway. Should those be just fine? Could I get very glossy finish with those? maybe not mirror like lacquer, but very glossy, like the finish on electric guitar for instance?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hayashiox Posted June 14, 2011 Report Share Posted June 14, 2011 Are you going to use it for outdoor applications? Or for guitars? You can achieve the guitar gloss, by applying at least 4 coats of gloss. Water based technology has slowly improved, but they does not comes close to oil based yet. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ediazf Posted June 15, 2011 Author Report Share Posted June 15, 2011 Are you going to use it for outdoor applications? Or for guitars? You can achieve the guitar gloss, by applying at least 4 coats of gloss. Water based technology has slowly improved, but they does not comes close to oil based yet. I built a cajon drum some time ago, and it works beautifully so I think I am making 3 or 4 for me and some friends and I want to get them beautifully finished, like you would see on a wooden drum snare or an electric guitar. Really glossy and protected. I know at least 4 coats, but, would a poly varnish works just as well as what mark uses as "just" poly? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hayashiox Posted June 15, 2011 Report Share Posted June 15, 2011 Polyurethane varnish will work fine for this. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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