Robb-n-Wood Posted September 10, 2011 Report Share Posted September 10, 2011 I just up graded my 1975 Craftman table saw to a new Powermatic PM2000. My question is; I have ordered a 10 inch Woodworker II 40 tooth thin kerf blade. I am woundering what rising knife others our using? The low profile or the standard profile. and if you are using the standard are you using the blade guard?. Do you find that you need blade stablisers on the thin kerf Woodworker II? Any other advice from other owner of the PM2000 to a new owner of the PM2000? Thanks, Robb-n-Wood Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sw1 Posted September 10, 2011 Report Share Posted September 10, 2011 I do not use thin kerf blades on my PM2000. You will not be able to use them without having a thin riving knife. I am not sure if the factory knive/blade guard will work either. I hate to admit it, but I use the low profile riving knife all the time and no guards. The only time it gets removed is when I put in a dado stack. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onboard Posted September 10, 2011 Report Share Posted September 10, 2011 Robb-n-Wood, this would also make a good post in the Normite City sub-forum. Just a thought. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike M Posted September 10, 2011 Report Share Posted September 10, 2011 There are riving knives and guard supports available for use with thin kerf blades. See the Powermatic web site for part numbers then google for a source selling them. You will also find the part number for the standard thickness riving knife on the site Personally, I use the standard riving knife with .125" kerf blades on my 2000. I don't use stabilizers and am very satisfied with the performance. Like many of us, the blade guard and splitter assembly sits on the shelf. The riving knife only comes out for dado blades or when I embed the top of the blade in a sacrificial fence for special cuts. Enjoy your new machine, it's a beauty. Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PeteJr Posted September 10, 2011 Report Share Posted September 10, 2011 Look at the Shark Guard, (Leeway Workshop) he has some great items for the PM2000. I have the standard .120 kerf on my saw. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
knotscott Posted September 10, 2011 Report Share Posted September 10, 2011 The PM 2000 is plenty stout and will have no issue spinning the full kerf WWII, which is less prone to flexing, so there's really little incentive to use the TK on that saw, unless the wood savings amounts to something to you. There will also be no issues with riving knife thickness using the full kerf. Blade stabilizers are often unncessary....I'd only get if there's an obvious runout issue, and even then, it's a bandaid not a cure of the root cause. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Robb-n-Wood Posted September 11, 2011 Author Report Share Posted September 11, 2011 Thanks for you ideas and thoughts, Terry Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dwacker Posted September 11, 2011 Report Share Posted September 11, 2011 Fwiw you get one more sharpening out of the full kerf v thin if the service does it right. Don Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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