Dust Collector Remote


Renzo

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I recently picked up an iVac dust collector vac switch.

Seems that my 1 1/2hp General Int Dust Collector draws too much power.With nothing but the DC and my bandsaw connected it blows the circuit breaker on the iVac everytime. I'm using both plugs on the iVac plugged into plugs on two separate breakers.I guess the DC when wired for 110 is actually 14 amps. The iVac seems rated for 12amp DCs.I was hoping to use this with my stationary tools using a power bar (only running one at a time of course)My DC is in an awkward place to turn on (the switch faces the back of the wall)

Does anyone have any experience with the Rocker dust collector remote? (i asked about this in a previous thread, but just wondering if it can handle the amps of my DC), as the info for it doesn't really say. It just states that it's good for 110v 1 1/2hp Dust collectors. I'd be ordering this from Canada so i'll have to pay shipping plus duty plus brokerage fees totaling probably $25 in addition to the rockler shipping charges. Just want to make sure it'll actually work when i get it.

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In that other thread, I recommended the Long Ranger; they have a 120V version and 220V version. I have no problem with the 2hp DC on it here, though hp ratings are often fudged. I think I'd get that remote over this one. The above link is to the manufacturers retail site. If they don't ship to Canada reasonably, maybe use the Contact Us page to find a Canadian retailer.

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You can go with generic solutions like X10 or Insteon. X10 uses a simple command and it can interpret "noise" as a signal and turn on when it shouldn't. I use X10 with my DC and I unplug it when I'm not in the shop. Insteon has a real "protocol" so it is much more reliable. I'm thinking of upgrading. I already have Insteon controlled lights in my house, so I'd just need the DC switch and remote (I already have base-stations). Still, it's pricey.

The above solutions don't say what protocol they use, so I would be concerned that they would have the same problem as my X10. They may work fine in a less urban environment, I don't know.

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You can go with generic solutions like X10 or Insteon. X10 uses a simple command and it can interpret "noise" as a signal and turn on when it shouldn't. I use X10 with my DC and I unplug it when I'm not in the shop. Insteon has a real "protocol" so it is much more reliable. I'm thinking of upgrading. I already have Insteon controlled lights in my house, so I'd just need the DC switch and remote (I already have base-stations). Still, it's pricey.

The above solutions don't say what protocol they use, so I would be concerned that they would have the same problem as my X10. They may work fine in a less urban environment, I don't know.

I'm pretty sure the standard X10 stuff isn't going to work. We talked about that in the other thread.

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I have the "Lone Ranger" kit on my PSI DC. The remotes are NOT heavy duty by any means. Look at the amp rating of the motor, not HP, those HP are always bloated. Kinda like wattage of speakers and amps. ;)

If the amperage numbers match up, the Shop Fox will work fine.

EDIT*

According to this the shop fox will work UP TO 20a. Most homes circuits on 110v do not exceed 20a. Hell, a lot of them are 15a.

The easy way to look and tell if you have an 20amp plug is to look at the two vertical lines of the plug, depending on which way it's mounted (meaning hole on top or bottom) there will be a small horizontal line off one of the two vertical slots. Typically it's on the left side, with the hole on the bottom. If you have said small slot, it's a 20amp plug. However, this does not mean it's a 20amp breaker or 12awg wire. If the breaker is 20, and the plug is 20. There is a very good chance the wire is 12awg (the minimum wire size for 20 amp).

If you are still unsure, snap a pic and sent it to me, I'll try to determine the size from the picture.

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I have the "Lone Ranger" kit on my PSI DC. The remotes are NOT heavy duty by any means. Look at the amp rating of the motor, not HP, those HP are always bloated. Kinda like wattage of speakers and amps. ;)

If the amperage numbers match up, the Shop Fox will work fine.

EDIT*

According to this the shop fox will work UP TO 20a. Most homes circuits on 110v do not exceed 20a. Hell, a lot of them are 15a.

The easy way to look and tell if you have an 20amp plug is to look at the two vertical lines of the plug, depending on which way it's mounted (meaning hole on top or bottom) there will be a small horizontal line off one of the two vertical slots. Typically it's on the left side, with the hole on the bottom. If you have said small slot, it's a 20amp plug. However, this does not mean it's a 20amp breaker or 12awg wire. If the breaker is 20, and the plug is 20. There is a very good chance the wire is 12awg (the minimum wire size for 20 amp).

If you are still unsure, snap a pic and sent it to me, I'll try to determine the size from the picture.

Hi Thanks, I'm certain the breaker and plug are 15a. Im not entirely sure whey the iVac blows the circuit to be honest.

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Hah yeah, but upon closer inspection the iVac is supposed to support up to 15a for both the DC and tool (so 30amp with it plugged into two switches on two separate breakers.

You more than likely answered your own questions. 15a.

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Hah yeah, but upon closer inspection the iVac is supposed to support up to 15a for both the DC and tool (so 30amp with it plugged into two switches on two separate breakers.

Not sure how you are using two 15 amp breakers, but if they are not on the same leg of your service you could be getting 220 volts and not 110. If this is the case be glad it tripped as it probably saved your tools.

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I have and use a Remote Control Transmitter by Advantage, it is 220/volts and up to a 3HP motor can be run from it.

I run my dust collection vac @ 2HP/220vac. The company does have units for 110 vac also but I can not tell you how many amps it will opperate safely.

I also run another for the air compressor in the storage of the attic @ 2hp 220vac, so I dont have to run any specal switches for the compressor, that remote is a differant frequancy than the dust collection system.

I have had no issues with the systems they work great and the remore for either controler has a belt loop clip that you can carry or put it near the tool yoy need the dust collector ot work.

On Edit:

I found these on the remote and other so just tag the stuff below.

tag here

Sorry I forgot to tell who had this add. Eagle Americia 1-800-872-2511 or eagleamerica.com

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  • 4 weeks later...

You asked about the iVAC, and people gave you answers about remote controls. Of course both do the same thing - turn on and off the DC. The iVAC does it automagically. If that is important to you, and you have the iVAC, I would get a contactor (AC Relay) big enough to switch your DC and let the iVAC turn the contactor on and off, with the contactor turning the DC on and off. Also would let you run the DC on a different circuit than your bandsaw.

Now, doing this requires finding a contactor and wiring AC, but it would be a pretty easy task.

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  • 3 months later...
  • 4 weeks later...

Older topic, but I figured I'd throw in my solution.  I was using x-10. Was nice cuz I had all my lights hooked to modules as well.  Your right though noise CAN interfere with it in RF ranges.  Neighbor called me at work once that it was running.  So I pulled it out and now use 'The Clapper'. Works good but occasionally the old lady needs a new case of Ensure or some denture cream.  But we make it work.  It's a pretty cheap solution considering.  You can check it out here. 

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-XUOhjW2AXM&feature=youtube_gdata_player

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