Vic Posted June 26, 2012 Report Share Posted June 26, 2012 I searched and could not find a slick solution for this. I'm in the process of moving my tablesaw area. In doing so, I noticed my fence is not square to the table top. I'm not talking about parallel to the blade. There IS an adjustment for that. Having the fence square to the table has obviously never bothered me, but what can I say. Now that I know it's not, it does! Has anyone come up with a slick solution? For now, I'm just shimming my subfence, but would like input, if anyone has some. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CessnaPilotBarry Posted June 26, 2012 Report Share Posted June 26, 2012 My current clone version (Sawstop), and the previous clone version (General) I owned on another saw, has two nylon screws on each side of the mount, that ride on the top of the fence rail. In other words, there are four adjusters. Two are inside the rail and adjust to and from blade parallelism, the more easily seen screw heads adjust "float" above the rail, and face tilt in relation to the blade. See Page 7 here-> http://www.sawstop.com/documents/Industrial%20T-Glide%20Fence%20System%20Owner%27s%20Manual%20%28Oct%2008%29.pdf Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vic Posted June 26, 2012 Author Report Share Posted June 26, 2012 I was surprised that the Biesemeyer doesn't have that squaring adjustment. Kind of bizarre. I have the fence out of parallel by .005 away from the blade. Good enough, I think. I muss with it more, if I notice anything. I planed my fence square to the table. It isn't dead on, but I always measure from the blade anyway and, as I said, it's been this way for years and I hadn't noticed. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Trip Posted June 26, 2012 Report Share Posted June 26, 2012 Assume you have blade parallel to miter slot (4 table bolts). Slot is parallel to table (mfg tolerance). Fence is parallel to blade (within the .005) using the fence / rail adjustment... So why would fence not be parallel to top (within the .005) all mfg tolerances being equal? I must be missing something... On my old TS, my Biesemeyer had the guide/blade adjustment screws... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vic Posted June 26, 2012 Author Report Share Posted June 26, 2012 I'll take a photo for you, hhh. Not a question of reference across the table, but to the table. As in put a square against the blade side of the fence, perpendicular to the fence and it is not square. Like I said..close enough. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vic Posted June 26, 2012 Author Report Share Posted June 26, 2012 Luckily I have a sub fence, so I squared that up a bit. It's worse on the fence itself. Bugger that I can't directly load from my iphone, but here it is. (null) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PaulMarcel Posted June 26, 2012 Report Share Posted June 26, 2012 I need to do the same thing to mine although apparently it hasn't bothered me since I got this saw (3 years? haha) For me the fence bows in a bit; someone at the factory was jacked up on caffeine and overtightened the middle screws holding the sacrificial fence. Bugs me when I see it. Maybe I'll do that tonight Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mikem Posted June 26, 2012 Report Share Posted June 26, 2012 one thought is loosening the rails screws a bit and adjusting the rail to bring it into square, though that maybe more trouble then its worth Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vic Posted June 26, 2012 Author Report Share Posted June 26, 2012 one thought is loosening the rails screws a bit and adjusting the rail to bring it into square, though that maybe more trouble then its worth The main fence rail is parallel to the top. At least the front is. I would have to drill some new holes to get the back dead on. Anyway, as I wrote earlier, I have it very close to square and I used it out of square for quite a few years with no problems. I just thought it odd that a fence, like Biesemeyer, would not have adjustment for that. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CessnaPilotBarry Posted June 26, 2012 Report Share Posted June 26, 2012 Vic, Drilling and tapping for the two nylon screws your version is missing would not be difficult. You could also attach UMHW shims in the same spots. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vic Posted June 26, 2012 Author Report Share Posted June 26, 2012 Vic, Drilling and tapping for the two nylon screws your version is missing would not be difficult. You could also attach UMHW shims in the same spots. I hadn't even thought of that! Good idea. It's fine for now, but I'll probably do that down the line. Thanks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Trip Posted June 26, 2012 Report Share Posted June 26, 2012 It looks like your fence already has the holes for the nylon set screws. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onboard Posted June 26, 2012 Report Share Posted June 26, 2012 Vic, this forum post seems to be discussing your problem, but it’s a lot of reading. If it is not discussing the problem your having, then my apology. The guy who started the post eventually got Biesemeyer to replace the fence. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nateswoodworks Posted June 30, 2012 Report Share Posted June 30, 2012 I would drill/tap/ and put nylon set screws in like was already mentioned, that's the way mine is and it works great. Unless you do tenons and such by running your stock vertically against your fence I am sure your fine but I know what you mean about it bothering you tooI was wondering one thing though, I see in your pic that the angle iron that holds your front rail has a small notch in it, is that in line with the blade or something? Just caught my eye and made me curious. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vic Posted July 1, 2012 Author Report Share Posted July 1, 2012 I'll check the little notch. I've never really paid attention to it. For tenon, I use the big miter fence, doing them flat. I have a tenoning jig for cheek cuts. (null) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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