Wood Shop Flooring Options


thewoodwhisperer

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You've been busy of late but do you remember me sending you pictures and details on the plywood floor I installed in my shop? Take a look at it again, it may help make up your mind on whether or not to go with plywood flooring or not.

So far the floor has been great. I can already tell the difference standing on the plywood versus concrete and I'm sure this winter it will be nice standing on an insullated floor too.

The only thing I would change is maybe not sanding between coats or at least use a heavier grit becasue once the saw dust starts flying the floor becomes slipery. I think this will become less of an issue the more I use the floor and especially once I get a dust collector.

Dave

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  • 4 weeks later...

One method that is used in basements and is relatively inexpensive AND keeps the wood from touching the concrete AND is cushy for walking on is.....put down a layer of 1" foam insulation on the concrete, cover with 5/8 (or 3/4) T&G plywood. Use tapcons (concrete screws) to attach the ply to the concrete floor. You now have a great floor as is, or, you can attach whatever you like to it as a finished floor (it's a shop, I would leave it as is, maybe some varathane).

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  • 2 weeks later...

My shop has a slab on grade. I used Delta-FL http://www.cosella-dorken.com/bvf-ca-en/products/foundation_residential/floor/products/fl.php for moisture barrier, insulation, and slight cushioning below the Pergo flooring. You should not seal a slab on grade. Moisture always moves from the ground through concrete. If you seal the concrete, then the moisture will eventually collect and damage the floor.

You can order Delta-FL through Home Depot. It is a snap to install. Just cut and tape the editions together. I used small pieces to level before installing the Pergo.

Pergo is overkill, but I only had a 20x24 floor and Lowes had the Pergo on sale.

The result is a floor that stays comfortable year round here in Colorado. It also has just enough give to be comfortable to stand on all day - no need for the pads I used to have on my hard garage floor.

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My shop has a slab on grade. I used Delta-FL http://www.cosella-d...products/fl.php for moisture barrier, insulation, and slight cushioning below the Pergo flooring. You should not seal a slab on grade. Moisture always moves from the ground through concrete. If you seal the concrete, then the moisture will eventually collect and damage the floor.

You can order Delta-FL through Home Depot. It is a snap to install. Just cut and tape the editions together. I used small pieces to level before installing the Pergo.

Pergo is overkill, but I only had a 20x24 floor and Lowes had the Pergo on sale.

The result is a floor that stays comfortable year round here in Colorado. It also has just enough give to be comfortable to stand on all day - no need for the pads I used to have on my hard garage floor.

This looks like a good product. Was it expensive?

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Pergo can be a little more expensive than other brands of better quality. They have a lot of name recognition and they seem to use that to put out a lesser quality product, other manufacturers in the same price range will usually be a better quality.

Uni-click ,Shaw, Mannigton and Mohawk all make nicer laminates. And are typically less money for similar quality

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  • 3 years later...

Vic, I realize this is a really old post but I like the look of your lauan floor. It looks great. How did you fasten it?

 

 

I just built a shop and I'm planning on a wood floor over concrete. The main reason is just for warmth and leg and back comfort. 2" foam, then 3/4" sleepers over the top of the foam. The sleepers will allow air movement underneath, account for issues in height differences in the concrete and provide a nailing surface. Then 3/4" t&g, but I haven't decided on the final finished floor over the OSB.   Lauan is lower cost, thinner, and seems to look good.  Possibly just paint the OSB but I am worried about it chipping. I'm also not sure if I should tapcon the sleepers through the foam into the concrete or just let everything float. Any thoughts on this project before I get going on it?

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  • 1 year later...
On ‎7‎/‎14‎/‎2012 at 0:52 PM, Vic said:

Mark, I used 1/4 Luan ply for my finished floor. You can be the judge of how it looks. Personally, I think plywood finished with a butt load of shellac is a good way to go. It's repairable for all the glue, stains etc. and shellac is not nearly as slick, after you've got a little sawdust on it. Ask me how I know this!

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@Vic - love the floor!  I can't believe that is plywood.  Can you tell me more about what is underneath, how you attached, how many coats of shellac, etc...

 

Thanks,

 

Carl

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