..Kev Posted December 17, 2014 Report Share Posted December 17, 2014 I took up Sketchup due to woodworking. I've been using the free resources that are out there plus I got Joe Zeh's series... Yep.. a napkin, chunk of wood, scrap paper, what ever is my sketchup.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eric. Posted December 17, 2014 Report Share Posted December 17, 2014 I guess the biggest thing stopping me from learning sketchup is that I've never found limitations in a pad of paper and a pencil. I know woodworkers tend to live by the mantra, "If it ain't broken, fix it until it is," but I'm drawing the line...no pun intended. It's just not something I need. I'd rather start milling my lumber than agonize over some digital rendering of what I have envisioned. I prefer organic building. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bill Tarbell Posted December 17, 2014 Report Share Posted December 17, 2014 I need sketchup to come up with the measurements prior to milling boards. Without any experience i'd struggle with uncertainty if i didn't have things pre-built in sketchup. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post Eric. Posted December 17, 2014 Popular Post Report Share Posted December 17, 2014 The only measurements you need are the for the first board you cut. Everything else is relative. 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
..Kev Posted December 17, 2014 Report Share Posted December 17, 2014 I need sketchup to come up with the measurements prior to milling boards. Without any experience i'd struggle with uncertainty if i didn't have things pre-built in sketchup. Frankly, once you've cut the first board, all the other measurements are taken from the piece, not the drawing. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bill Tarbell Posted December 17, 2014 Report Share Posted December 17, 2014 but i can't know what ratio to make the other boards at unless i have visualized it via sketchup I guess as a computer programmer i tend to over-analyze things a bit. Making sure i have everything planned out makes me feel more at ease. In programming i can easily refactor something if i see a flaw or change my mind.. in woodworking i have to cut a replacement piece.. or pieces in order to change up the plan. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wdwerker Posted December 17, 2014 Report Share Posted December 17, 2014 I gotta give Eric his due, a grumpy old guy that is far younger than I am ! The best way to explore a design is draw it full size ! A 4x8 sheet of MDF is your paper and full size lets you see all the proportions. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wouldwurker Posted December 17, 2014 Report Share Posted December 17, 2014 So MDF IS useful for something! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vyrolan Posted December 17, 2014 Report Share Posted December 17, 2014 So MDF IS useful for something! MDF is useful for covering up the walnut end grain on a project because then when you paint it the painted MDF will match the painted walnut long grain. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AstroDave Posted December 19, 2014 Author Report Share Posted December 19, 2014 So I finally managed to get back in the shop to get some work done on the beer totes. The biggest challenge I am facing is cutting the curved sides. Ultimately I think I will be cutting them well over-sized and sanding to the find size. Here's a closer shot of the curved side that obviously doesn't work but I will use as a basic template I didn't have anything handy to make a curve and ended up using of my cats toys Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
..Kev Posted December 19, 2014 Report Share Posted December 19, 2014 Creative way to make a drawing bow there! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eric. Posted December 19, 2014 Report Share Posted December 19, 2014 The biggest challenge I am facing is cutting the curved sides. Ultimately I think I will be cutting them well over-sized and sanding to the find size. Use your router table and a template with a big pattern bit. You should be able to rout at least half the height with it. Then remove the template, flip it over, and use a long flush trim bit to copy the part you routed with the pattern bit. These operations should be done with some kind of jig to hold the piece so your hot dogs are far away and safe. Far less sanding to be done and you'll be left with fair curves. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AstroDave Posted December 19, 2014 Author Report Share Posted December 19, 2014 Thanks Eric...first problem...no bits and no experience on the router table yet... However what you say makes sense and I will see if I can figure it out...safely of course. I have a basic set of bits waiting for me at WoodCraft so it's time to go pick them up. Time to take the router table for a spin. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
..Kev Posted December 19, 2014 Report Share Posted December 19, 2014 That's a tall order on the router table.. I might consider the band saw to get close and then sand. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AstroDave Posted December 19, 2014 Author Report Share Posted December 19, 2014 I used my bandsaw initially and my plan was to do it until I perfected that method. However it's always good to have a plan B... The challenge I had with the bandsaw was getting the blade to stay co-planer with the board face. I am able to stick proud of the mark on top but the blade drifts off on the bottom. I am sure it's all a matter of practice and technique...that's why the lumber yard guy smiles when he sees me... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
..Kev Posted December 19, 2014 Report Share Posted December 19, 2014 Slower feed rate should help with that.. You can also mark your cuts on both sides and cut from both sides. Just keep the blade in the waste at all times.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Raefco Posted December 19, 2014 Report Share Posted December 19, 2014 For cutting that curve on the bandsaw, you might try clamping a square block to the.end of the board your holding on to help keep it plumb and perpendicular to the blade it is hard to keep something with such a narrow base straight up and down while Making a curve Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom Cancelleri Posted December 19, 2014 Report Share Posted December 19, 2014 For cutting that curve on the bandsaw, you might try clamping a square block to the.end of the board your holding on to help keep it plumb and perpendicular to the blade it is hard to keep something with such a narrow base straight up and down while Making a curve Raefco is 100% right on this one. It's possible you are tipping the wood ever so slightly since it's fairly thin to begin with. Also make sure your blade guard is just high enough that you can pass the board under it, and check that your table is 90 degrees to your blade. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eric. Posted December 19, 2014 Report Share Posted December 19, 2014 I was on my way to drunk last night so my post was a little convoluted. What I was suggesting is doing something similar to what I did for my contemplation bench... With a piece as small as the sides for your boxes, you should be able to just flip it over and get both sides with the pattern bit...forget the flush trim bit altogether. Building a jig like this will be necessary...don't even attempt it without one. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wdwerker Posted December 19, 2014 Report Share Posted December 19, 2014 Double face tape the board to a perfectly squared up block so it doesn't tip and it gives you something to hold onto while cutting. I have learned to use the least amount of tape to do the job, otherwise it's time consuming to pry off the block. A very thin flat crowbar is handy. When the holes won't show a couple of carefully placed screws thru the block may be much faster but be very careful not to drive them too deep or miscut and hit the metal with your bandsaw blade. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AstroDave Posted December 19, 2014 Author Report Share Posted December 19, 2014 Thanks for all of the excellent advice and options provided. I will try the bandsaw route first and if I have time to whip up a jig I will do that. Also found this little do-dad when looking for options... may pick one up.. http://www.amazon.com/CMT-TMP-1000-Flexible-Template-Routing/dp/B008AXQJRC/ref=cm_cr_pr_sims_t Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom Cancelleri Posted December 19, 2014 Report Share Posted December 19, 2014 Double face tape the board to a perfectly squared up block so it doesn't tip and it gives you something to hold onto while cutting. I have learned to use the least amount of tape to do the job, otherwise it's time consuming to pry off the block. A very thin flat crowbar is handy. When the holes won't show a couple of carefully placed screws thru the block may be much faster but be very careful not to drive them too deep or miscut and hit the metal with your bandsaw blade. I do that with a Pin nailed on the bottom or backs of a piece of wood. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
..Kev Posted December 19, 2014 Report Share Posted December 19, 2014 Thanks for all of the excellent advice and options provided. I will try the bandsaw route first and if I have time to whip up a jig I will do that. Also found this little do-dad when looking for options... may pick one up.. http://www.amazon.com/CMT-TMP-1000-Flexible-Template-Routing/dp/B008AXQJRC/ref=cm_cr_pr_sims_t If you're going to build multiples of these, then the router jig is a good thing to have in the shop. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eric. Posted December 19, 2014 Report Share Posted December 19, 2014 I just don't know why you guys would bother doing this on the bandsaw when you could get perfect curves on the router table in a fraction of the time with a fraction of the labor. Of course you'd rough out the shape and hog off most of the meat at the bandsaw first...but then slap that puppy on the RT and be done. Guess it's just me. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wouldwurker Posted December 19, 2014 Report Share Posted December 19, 2014 Less pucker factor? Dave mentioned he doesn't have lots of RT experience. I know that if my first RT project involved the ft bit and a pattern bit switcharoo, I'd probably opt for the jigsaw/bandsaw and spindle sander method too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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