mrrhode04

You can either use Titebond 3 with some of the sawdust as a home made filler or epoxy. All my cutting boards I use epoxy because it gets further in to the crack and completely fills it.

Thank you, it was my first table so it was kinda a learning experience but that is the best woodworking. My grandparents really like it.

This is a table that I made my Grandma with a couple pictures of the one it replaced (about 45 years old). As you can see the old table was very warped and cupped.

Thank you. It does have a stain on it but it isn't as dark as I originally talked about. I like the color and I think it will go good in her house. That would be a small Rube Goldberg machine that a group of us have to make for our statics class.

I know it has been a long time since the original post but I am finally getting work done on the table. Here are a few pictures on the progress. The first ones are dry fitting and the other two are with the first coat of poly on.

I use the many different things. One is the same that Brendon uses, I also use Solidworks mainly because I am using it all day long so it doesn't take much to draw something up in my free time. A lot of my designs come from my head, I have a idea of a finished product in my head and then just start cutting wood to make it look the way I want.

Thank you. The corner is a standard miter joint and I used two Tite joint fasteners to pull it together. http://www.rockler.com/tite-joint-fastener

Well I know this is a old thread but I got the little table top thing done and installed, makes everything look nice. Also no need for the crowd funding anymore the dish washer has been replaced.

My thoughts on wooden cutting boards has already been covered, so I will talk about the original question. I make a lot of cutting boards for people and primary stick with Walnut, Hard maple, Cherry and Purple heart. People really like the Purple heart because it is naturally purple. Instead of change the wood that I use I change the design to keep things different. Don't be afraid of sap wood it can make a really cool design without trying. Here are a few boards that I have recently made.

Yep the white thing at the end of the island is going away. He wants one that is pretty close to the same thing but cut straight across from where the outer chamfers are. So the only angle cuts will be what go back to the island. There is two large supports under the table top right now that should be enough to hold it up.

Well they decided they want to keep the little table that is on the island, so I went over to measure for that and got a few better looking pictures.

I switch between juicing and green smoothies. Once I get tired of one I switch to the other one for a while. My primary diet is low carb as much as possible.

Well got this picture from him at 10:30 last night. All the counter tops are in. Sorry for the crappy cell phone picture, I didn't take it.

So I picked it up last night. This thing has seriously never been used, it was setup up but never used. Everything is in perfect condition just like out of the box. I can't wait to make something with it.

So I have been looking at getting a dovetail jig for a while now and I am in the process of saving up to get one new. Then I was online a ran across this one, I think I already now the answer but I would like to hear from some of you guys on if this is a good deal or not. Also for the people that own Leigh would you buy another one? I was looking on Leigh's website and I can buy a kit for $30 to convert this to a D4R pro. Liegh DR4 Dovetail Jig - $375 condition: new make / manufacturer: Leigh model name / number: DR4 I learned to cut dovetails by hand, so I just never used this jig. It has a 24" width capacity, dovetail bits (8° and 14°), straight bit 5/16" x 1" (all 8mm shanks), a 1/2" to 8mm collet reducer, an eccentric guide bushing, User's Manual, and DVD. With stand, locking casters. Brand new (never used), $375