tonydem Posted February 26, 2013 Report Share Posted February 26, 2013 thoughts? is it necessary? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eric. Posted February 26, 2013 Report Share Posted February 26, 2013 What species? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CessnaPilotBarry Posted February 26, 2013 Report Share Posted February 26, 2013 I wouldn't... The main idea of Danish Oil is an "in the wood" finish. A sanding sealer might prevent the oil from penetrating and drying properly. Sanding sealers are great for sealing off a surface for final sanding before a film finish. Most folks trying to build a Danish Oil finish wet sand with more oil during later coats, making the oil self-sealing. A sample board is always the safest option. Grab a decent sized scrap from your project, prepare it, as in sand / scrape / plane, exactly the same as your project, zip a shallow table saw kerf down the middle, and apply sanding sealer to 1/2 of the board. Once it's dry, apply oil to both sides. Keep track of which side is which, and all steps, by writing them on the back. See if you you like the look or if weird things happen... If you really like one of the samples, follow the steps you've written on the back of the sample on the actual project. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wdwerker Posted February 27, 2013 Report Share Posted February 27, 2013 "zip a shallow table saw kerf down the middle". !!! Great idea! I have made many sample boards and tape doesn't really do the trick. Consider this adopted at my shop. Thanks Barry! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tonydem Posted February 27, 2013 Author Report Share Posted February 27, 2013 it is Red Oak... i cant tell much, if any difference.. so i think ill save the time and money and just do the D.O. i will however be using the arm-r-seal top coat from general finishes so should i do anything between the 2nd D.O. coat and first arm-r? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wdwerker Posted February 27, 2013 Report Share Posted February 27, 2013 Wait a few days for the oil to completely dry before you top coat with anything. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tonydem Posted February 27, 2013 Author Report Share Posted February 27, 2013 Wait a few days for the oil to completely dry before you top coat with anything. no sanding though? i saw one guy on youtube wet sand with 600 and D.O. before the top coat... didnt seem necessary Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CessnaPilotBarry Posted February 27, 2013 Report Share Posted February 27, 2013 The wet sanding with oil creates a slurry that fills pores. It's a judgement call, based on the preferred final look, completely subjective and up to the end user. Remember, Danish Oil is basically a low viscosity mixture of oil and varnish. Top coating it simply allows you to save many steps building ultra-thin coat. I've done sample boards with one side getting 10-12 coats of oil, wetsanding the early applications, and a coat or two of oil followed by a good oil varnish, and the end result looked identical. The real difference was that the varnished side was finished weeks earlier... Steve, I'm glad you like the "gutter" technique! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TRBaker Posted February 28, 2013 Report Share Posted February 28, 2013 Tony, I've found that following the drying time recommendation on the label is best. Watco says to wait 72 hrs. before top-coating. I've tried to short-cut that and ended up with a gummy finish. No sense in taking a chance at this stage of the game. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AceHoleInOne Posted February 28, 2013 Report Share Posted February 28, 2013 As the others have suggested, no sanding between coats unless your trying to grain fill. I agree with TRBaker, In my opinion 72 hours is a little soon for Danish Oil to dry and ready for a topcoat. Oak has deep grain pockets and will hold the Danish Oil like a swimming pool to water. I would advise at least a good week. If not, the Danish Oil will try to gas off up through the armrseal and take it forever to dry. No to the sanding sealer, as mentioned above, the goal is to have a rich oil looking finish so the sanding sealer would restrict some of the oil traveling down into the wood, also we don't need to worry about blotching, because oaks aren't blotching woods. Hope this helps. -Ace- Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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