Staining poplar

[AceHoleInOne]

http://rustoleum.com/CBGProduct.asp?pid=246 is and has been for 100 years.

 

 

Sealcoat as a "sanding sealer" it really isn't. It’s a marketing term. Like the word lacquer, is it water-based or solvent-based? Same holds true as to milk-paint, only marketing terms. True sanding sealers are used in the production world to build a finish rapidly. Thus, they have lots of soft solids that fill surface and build a film and sands without a ton of effort. . Sealcoat has very little in the way of solids. Therefore, it takes lots of coats to fill surface in woods like an oak. So it's not a very useful product as a "sanding sealer."

 

-Ace-

[mds2]

I got my new woodsmith in the mail today and it just happens to have an article about using gel stains, and the used poplar as an example. Looks like a very simple process.

Bob I ordered some of the dye you mentioned too. It was fairly inexpensive.

[Tkf530]

I got my new woodsmith in the mail today and it just happens to have an article about using gel stains, and the used poplar as an example. Looks like a very simple process.

Bob I ordered some of the dye you mentioned too. It was fairly inexpensive.

Which issue is this? I'd like to read it? The latest which is #205 doesn't mention gel stain. Unless I missed it?

http://rustoleum.com/CBGProduct.asp?pid=246 is and has been for 100 years.

I rarely use shellac though. However I do prefer mixing my own with flakes and methanol then buying premixed. Perhaps I didn't let it dry long enough.

[mds2]

#206. Pages 46 and 47.

I'm going try gel stain tomorrow and compare it to the dye that is coming. I will post pictures when I start making samples.

[dwacker]

Sealcoat as a "sanding sealer" it really isn't. It’s a marketing term. Like the word lacquer, is it water-based or solvent-based? Same holds true as to milk-paint, only marketing terms. True sanding sealers are used in the production world to build a finish rapidly. Thus, they have lots of soft solids that fill surface and build a film and sands without a ton of effort. . Sealcoat has very little in the way of solids. Therefore, it takes lots of coats to fill surface in woods like an oak. So it's not a very useful product as a "sanding sealer."

 

-Ace-

A true standing sealer is a stearate sealer which is generally used only with lacquer. Shellac is used for incompatible finishes. Sanding sealers are used for more than one reason. Of course one is for lacquer building. The others are straight sealing as with oily woods. I do agree that it has become a more generic term just like "stain". Makes it difficult for those splitting hairs.

[mds2]

I was hoping to get to this last weekend, but I had to run a 10K, then other stuff came up. So I did a bit of experimenting last night with Minwax gel stain.  I tried one piece with Zinsser seal coat and one without, all per the directions on the cans.  The seal coated piece ended up looking blotchier to me.  Neither piece was as dark as I want them to be, even after two coats of stain.  The dye I ordered should be here tomorrow then I will do a few more tests and post pictures. 

[AceHoleInOne]

Just a thought, you may want to hit the seal-coat board again. So 1 application of sealer, let it dry, a quick scuff with 320 paper, then do another coat. Remember poplar sapwood is very porous and will drink in the seal-coat. So basically your flat-grain is sealed more, making the sapwood stand out more. Your goal is to equalize the sapwood to the flat-grain to what looks good to the eye. Wont be perfect, but thats where the glazing helps to equalize the color.

 

-Ace-

[mds2]

I finally got the time and materials to do some tests on poplar.  I am in no way a photographer.

The control piece is pretty typical of all of the wood about 50/50 white to green.  I would have been more selective in choosing lumber but originally the plan was to make it black.

Here is what I did on each sample.

 

The wood is poplar sanded to 220 grit.

Control:

 

1. Two coats of Minwax water based ebony stain.

2. One coat xylene based ebony stain.

3.Two coats Minwax mahogany gel stain

4.Two coats Minwax mahogany gel stain, two coats Zinsser amber shellac.

5. One coat Zinsser seal coat, two coats Minwax mahogany gel stain

6. One coat Zinsser seal coat, two coats Minwax mahogany gel stain, two coats Zinsser amber shellac.

7. One coat Lockwoods standard brown mahogany dye.

8. One coat Lockwoods standard brown mahogany dye, two coats Zinsser amber shellac.

 

 

 

In the end I liked the dye the most, very easy to apply, and I found with a little practice I could control the blotchiness a bit.  I made two other samples with seal coat and dye but they looked really terrible.  Seal coat under dye doesnt work. 

 

I'll post a picture of the finished product when the glue dries.  Thank you everyone for the advice and help.

[mds2]

Here is the finished product.  Still some blotching, but it is what it is.

 

[AceHoleInOne]

MDS2

 

Poplar is tough to get it right. It takes time and your learning. Don't get discouraged. Keep working those samples.

 

Here is a pic of a solid poplar lowboy.  I used all General Finishes products. This piece has a good amount of sapwood in it. Using quality materials will stack the deck in your favor!

 

 

[mds2]

If I were to do it again I would have mixed the dye less potently.   I mixed it per the directions on the package 1oz. per 1/2 gallon.  At that strength it made it fairly dark right away.  Using a lighter mixture I think I could have eliminated most of the blotchiness without getting it too dark.  

 

 

That is a great looking piece of furniture, Ace.

[AceHoleInOne]

Hey man thanks!

 

Yes mix lighter on the dye and build up to your final color. I usually figure 2 coats of dye for even coverage. Again you need to play with your sealer on blotchy woods. As I said it may sometimes take 2 coats. And yes go light on the sealer or you can over seal.

 

You on the right track and doing the right things. Keep on keeping!

 

-Ace-