Adjusting Jet 16-32 advice

[Dave H]

Alright I'm trying to get the inboard and outboard sides of my drum parallel I loosened the four bolts, when I slid the blade of my combo square under the drum the tension rollers lifted the outboard side. So I wraped a zip tie around the case to lift the tension roller up above the drum level now the zip tie is acting as brake on the drum and, thats how I'm gaugeing the drum parallel by haveing the blade of the combo sq just kissing the drum but not spinning the drum. I guess I'm asking is there a simpler way of achieveing parallel other than what I'm doing now I'm getting frustrated and, had to walk away for awhile.

[dwacker]

Dont adjust your drum sander with measuring tools. Just take scrap squares of 3/4" mdf. With a pencil draw lines and hash marks all over the face. Run the mdf through just kissing the surface. on the right side. The pencil marks should remain but scuffed on the right side after being lightly sanded. If they are gone or not touched on the left side make the proper adjustment.

[Dave H]

I figured it out walking away and, venting did the trick I've got it dialed in now. Accually the zip ties worked great.

[Dave H]

Thanks Don I'll try the MDF trick to test the set up I have now.

[Dave H]

Oh I think I know how we got our wires crossed Don You thought I was measureing with the blade of my combo square. What I was doing is useing it as a feeler gauge I checked the width of the blade with my calipers and, the blade is consistent along the length I believe this is doing the same fuction as your MDF trick unless I'm missing something.

P.S. I checked my set up with your MDF trick it came out great, I'm going to try your way on my next adjustment session thanks.

[dwacker]

Oh I think I know how we got our wires crossed Don You thought I was measureing with the blade of my combo square. What I was doing is useing it as a feeler gauge I checked the width of the blade with my calipers and, the blade is consistent along the length I believe this is doing the same fuction as your MDF trick unless I'm missing something.

Adjust open end machines for loaded sag even wide belts. When you measure static making both sides equal your assuming the machine has no flex, not a good assumption with any open ended machine. Your always going to have more weight or pressure further away from the motor end because the machine flexes. Sanding the wide pieces with pencil marks insures you are getting the same pressure all the way across the board. You may find the right side is actually higher than the left when measure static.

Hope that makes sense.

[estesbubba]

My open end is a hair higher and I like it that way. I think the manual says to adjust the drum if you doing single pass or double pass. I found that knob adjustment doesn't work worth a crap and trying to go back and forth is frustrating. If it's critical a board < 16" has to be perfectly flat, I send the board through, rotate 180 horizontally, then send through again w/o lowering drum. Works great for me. 

[AceHoleInOne]

I just wrap some 120 paper on the drum get a length of wood that is square and flat about 2" tall. Hell a time or two, I have used my long level through the sander as a gage. Bring the table and block of wood up (I have a Delta) till it just kisses the drum and I can move the drum with my hand.  Do the left side first then the right. Then go back and make any fixes. My instructions say to pitch the open side up some so you can accommodate wider items, but I don't.

 

Never had an issue always, dead flat. Don't get discouraged, after a while when you get it figure out it becomes real easy!

 

-Ace-

[thewoodwhisperer]

I have actually been having a bear of a time adjusting my 22-44 pro. Thankfully, the machine holds its setting very well so it has been years since it has required adjustment. But the way it is designed, the pressure feed rollers are secured with the same bolts that hold the drum in position. Making matters worse is the "fine-tune adjustment works off of a cam-style action that actually tends to preferentially raise the front up. Yes, the drum is raised, but the front left side of the roller goes with it. This is actually a different system than the one used by the 16-32 but I thought I'd mention that I'm having problems too, just in case it makes anyone feel better that they aren't alone.  

[Rick LoDico]

Here's a great tutorial.  The first photo is the most important/

http://www.joewoodworker.com/performax.htm

[croessler]

Wow... Thanks for that link Rick. I actually like that method. I have an background in electronics and was thinking if you own a multimeter you can use the continuity function to accomplish the same thing. You would receive an audible tone when there was contact (aka a short).

[CessnaPilotBarry]

I do my 22/44 with striped MDF, as previously mentioned by Don.  If I set it to feed slowly, I can nail it with one pass.  Fortunately, I don't have to do it often.

 

You have to be aware that these machines will flex if too big a bite is taken.  What's worked for me is adjust so the last, very light, pass comes out as flat as it can.  When I'm taking heavier passes, I accept some error, and reverse the stock like Estes mentioned.  I do not change the setting between passes when rotating the work.  Everything will work it's way to flat.

[Tom35]

On 3/29/2013 at 4:55 PM, Rick LoDico said:

Here's a great tutorial.  The first photo is the most important/

http://www.joewoodworker.com/performax.htm

I realize this is an old thread, hoping anyone is still watching it. I like this idea about removing the spring and adding the lock nuts, seems to make sense - can anyone tell my what purpose the spring serves? I have read in other sites that this sander will "flex" when in use and I am wondering if that spring was designed to handle that flex? Has anyone else tried this method of removing the spring, are you happy with results (being parallel making boards flat) and performance (no issues with spring removed)

Thank you!

Tom