Die Grinders


Eric.

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This is a little off the die grinder topic, but if I build I'll probably look into a jig that will let me use a router to make the column. To cut the sliding dovetails in the base of the column will already require a similar jig, so I was just going to add a way to rotate the column while the router is running to get a home brew version of a legacy mill.

Aaron,

 

Did you ever come up with a jig to allow us to mill the column without a lathe?

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Walter, life got in the way so I haven't been able to get out to the shop much lately.  Two little girls are keeping me busy!

 

The latest video from Marc briefly shows how the router jig for this project could be used as a "poor man's lathe".  He uses the jig to straighten out the bottom of one of his columns.  The same jig should work with a slightly different technique (and a lot of patience) to do the whole column from a rough blank.  I'd use a different bit - like a bowl bottom bit that has rounded corners - to rough out the column one pass at a time.  You could figure out the plunge depth, plunge into the column, then rotate by hand.  For some decorative beads or other details you'd need to match some router bits to the desired column profiles.  It might be a lot of work, though!

 

Another idea would be to modify the standard jig and offset the router to the SIDE of the column blank.  If you could extend the bit enough, you could work on the side of the column instead of the top.  You could also incorporate a template that reproduces the shape of the column.  Almost like pattern routing with a straight bit, but in 3D.

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  • 1 month later...

Here is my column, done without a lathe.  I used a jig from WWGOA, a hardboard template, and a router with a guide bushing.

 

Can you share any more info on your setup? I watched the WWGOA video linked earlier about getting the cylinder, but curious to see how you did it with the template, etc.?

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  • 3 weeks later...

Bob,

Sorry it has taken so long to reply.  I took Aaron's suggestion and worked on this side of the column.  I put the template across the top of the jig so the guide bushing would ride along the edge while the router bit cut into the side of the blank.  I used 1/4" hardboard as a template material and cut out the curved, side profile of the post.  To support the router, I started the profile about 3" back from the edge of the hardboard so that the template would span width of the jig when the profile was in position above the blank.  I used a long, spiral carbide bit in the router with a guide bushing.  However, other bits would probably work as well.  If I had a bowl bottom bit I would have tried that as it might have left a smoother surface given its rounded bottom.

 

I changed the base plate from the video.  I removed the side wings and used only one of the wooden stops underneath to prevent the router from cutting into the side of the jig.  The guide bushing and template limited the travel on the other side and ends.  I also drilled some cutouts in the baseplate so I could see the bit when I was positioning the router and template.  Hope this helps.

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