JWM Posted January 28, 2014 Report Share Posted January 28, 2014 Wood is rift or quater sawen white oak. For years I have used Minwax Provinical stain to get something that looks like fumed oak. Was never satisfied with look. (To yellow) All the pieces I have seen that have been fumed are over 100 years old and seem yo have a grayish/brown cast not yellow. Anyone have something they use to get the fumed look without a lot of trail and error? TIA Jim Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Trip Posted January 28, 2014 Report Share Posted January 28, 2014 Of course, you could always fume it... Question: are you shooting for the dark 'mission' tone most folks associate with GS furniture or a more natural tone? Not a trick question -- or maybe it is Actual fumed GS furniture was not quite as 'dark' as one might think -- the 'dark mission' stain you get in the store is based on what the fumed pieces look like now (with about 80 years of dirt/grime/aging/etc), not how they looked in the '20s when removed from the fuming booth... As a side note, many folks who fume actually leave it longer than the original schedule to darken the piece to what they think mission 'should look like' -- it's a circle of perception (much like applying dark cherry stain to natural cherry because 'that's what cherry looks like'). But, if you fume according to the original schedule, the pieces are quite a bit lighter than the current 'mission brown' stains -- the furniture then ages/darkens over time... Background: Fumed (26%) A&C pieces have a medium-brown tone with a green cast. The longer you fume, the deeper the brown. A typical time is 8-12hrs. A Tung oil is rubbed into the surface. The result is quite a bit lighter than what is sold today as ‘mission oak’. Non-fumed A&C pieces were typically finished with a coal-tar aniline dye (now considered a carcinogen and hard to get) -- these pieces are a bit deeper in tone and closer to a 12hr fume and lack a green cast, but also lighter in tone than today's ‘mission brown’ stains. You don’t mention the level of topcoat protection required…. Most A&C pieces were delivered with a Tung oil topcoat and they've been around a century... If your piece doesn't need the abuse-protection, then maybe pass on the oil/poly blends, WB, etc… On a personal note: There are one or two decorative pieces that I just blindly applied an oil/poly topcoat out of shear habit, and then deeply regretted it later. Non-fumed A&C finish that I got from DM to simulate fuming: one thin application of TransFast ‘Mission Oak’ dye (simulates the coal-tar aniline dye from the ‘20s). If you want to go darker, apply the dye again after about an hour. Apply two coats of hand-rubbed Tung oil. If your piece needs some abuse protection, use something like Arm-R-Seal. As always, test, test, test.... 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eric. Posted January 28, 2014 Report Share Posted January 28, 2014 Finnish: Finish: H3 pretty much covered the rest. Good post, H3. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dwacker Posted January 28, 2014 Report Share Posted January 28, 2014 The fumed look is very easy. I generally dont mention lacquer stains because Im not real sure you can buy them without a license. I have an epa card and a license. At any rate this is what your looking for at Rodda. If you can get a sample that would be better. It takes one light coat to get the undertone and then a second to get the overall color. The computer will pick up the undertone and separate the top stain but will assume a Cab top coat of finish. If the guy at the keyboard knows what he/she is doing you will get an exact match. Like I said I dont know if they will sell these to the general public as they are toxic. Of the shelf stains are a different animal altogether and are just plain a pain in the ass. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AceHoleInOne Posted January 28, 2014 Report Share Posted January 28, 2014 I have not done this, but read in Charles Neil new finishing book of a baking soda and water mixture when applied to the wood will "simulate" a fumed look without all the fuming. Hope this helps. -Ace- Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dwacker Posted January 28, 2014 Report Share Posted January 28, 2014 You can also see if you like Lockwood #94 in alcohol. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Trip Posted January 28, 2014 Report Share Posted January 28, 2014 <edit> ==> Baking Soda I've heard of this, but don't know anyone who actually uses it... Not that i'd suggest experimenting on someone else's time, but maybe the OP could give it a try and report back Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dwacker Posted January 28, 2014 Report Share Posted January 28, 2014 I've heard of this, but don't know anyone who actually uses it... Not that i'd suggest experimenting on someone else's time, but maybe the OP could give it a try and report back Do you mean the #94? Pretty much every cabinet shop that does craftsman kitchens uses it. I personally think its a little bland and lacks the undertones. I think it was Robert Lang that used it on a Morris chair in one of the WW magazines. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Trip Posted January 28, 2014 Report Share Posted January 28, 2014 ==> Do you mean the #94? Sorry, I was referring to baking soda... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AceHoleInOne Posted January 28, 2014 Report Share Posted January 28, 2014 ==> Do you mean the #94? Sorry, I was referring to baking soda... I will assume this is directed towards me? Would you please kindly more fully respond. Not sure what your trying to say! -Ace- Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Charles Neil Posted January 28, 2014 Report Share Posted January 28, 2014 The baking soda/water can be tweaked by adjusting the ratio. It will appear pretty bland until a finish is applied over it. It is a reaction with the tannins in the wood, similar to steel wool/vinegar , but not as strong . Fumed white oak can also have a greenish hue to it , which I personaly don't care for . I dont see this with the soda mix , it is a little more on the brown side of the spectrum. One of the closest colorants I have found for fumed white oak is General Finishes "Antique oak", its really close, and does have the greenish hue to it . Is a water base stain, so it as well will dry bland until a topcoat is applied. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sjeff70 Posted January 28, 2014 Report Share Posted January 28, 2014 Holy crap is this the real Charles Neil, please stand up! Nice to meet you sir! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Charles Neil Posted January 29, 2014 Report Share Posted January 29, 2014 Greetings as well ... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JWM Posted January 29, 2014 Author Report Share Posted January 29, 2014 Thanks for all the info. I'll be testing some of them. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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