mtbercrash40 Posted June 27, 2014 Report Share Posted June 27, 2014 Hey guys. I removed some hard wood from the under side of a kitchen table we no longer need. I planed all my pieces down to 3/8". I am making a small box with a lid for my moms birthday. Something like a small keep sake or jewelry box. I planed, sanded, and constructed it up. Stained it with a dark walnut oil base stain. ( I think, I'll have to dig it out of the trash to make sure, but for now I'll put that) Let dry for 3 days. And last, I sprayed some satin spar varnish. And now its completely sticky. Why? And how can I salvage this? Thank you, thank you for any feedback. Meanwhile, I'll dig for the empty can. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Trip Posted June 27, 2014 Report Share Posted June 27, 2014 ==>Stained it with a dark walnut oil base stain. ( I think, I'll have to dig it out of the trash to make sure, but for now I'll put that) We need to know the stain or at least if it's Oil-based, WB, etc. The can would be great... And how old the stain is... ==>Let dry for 3 days Should be good to go... ==>I sprayed some satin spar varnish This is an interesting choice for coating and application method for said coating... Spar varnishes are a great product, but are formulated for the marine environment -- high-solids, UV inhibitors, soft/flexable long-chain polymer, etc. Not really the best choice for an indoor project, but no one says you can't use it. How old is the varnish? Did you add the purpose-made spar varnish spray/accelerator -- you know, the stuff you need to add if you're going to spray it... like is says in the product's technical datasheet PDF you downloaded from their site? There's a bunch of other questions, but let's just start with those... And before you jump on me (BTW ), yes I know you can shoot spar varnish without the accelerator, but it's going to be beyond most folk's experience and/or kit... The primary reason for spar varnishes refusing to dry is age, incompatibility with what's under it, what's under it isn't cured, environmental temp/humidity, applied too thick, plus others -- let's just start with those... BTW, it's not unusual for spar varnish coatings to take two ot three days to dry if the environmental factors or coating thickness is off. If it never dries, then it's probably the age of the product, contamination (think silicone), and/or incompatibility with what's under it.. Another issue may be your use of reclaimed stock... Silicone, cleaning agents, factory sealers, etc may be imbedded in the stock. You say you planed-down the stock... How much did you remove? Some factory sealers can penetrate to 3/16ths. Let's start with the above and see how far we get... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mtbercrash40 Posted June 27, 2014 Author Report Share Posted June 27, 2014 I found the can! I forgot to mention that I am not a beginner,...Im very novice. Seriously,.I just started tinkering around with woodworking. Especially the staining arena. Thats a whole new ball game to me now. Ok, so stained it with one coat of, "Rust-Oleum Ultimate Wood Stain" Kona is the color. And one spray coat of "Cabot Satin Spar Varnish" On the can of wood stain, it does not mention whether it is oil based or water based. I do know it was very liquidy when I used it, and not thick like paint. Both cans were less than a month sitting on my shelf when I used them. They are however all kept in my shed outside. No insulation, extreme texas heat. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wdwerker Posted June 27, 2014 Report Share Posted June 27, 2014 Stepped on a nerve did he? Whether you knew it or not a series of mistakes set up an almost unrecoverable situation. Think of it as a learning experience. We have all made major painful errors, some more expensive than others . I remember a finishing error on an expensive large custom job took me days and hundreds of dollar to fix. Now I make test boards for anything slightly unusual. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mtbercrash40 Posted June 27, 2014 Author Report Share Posted June 27, 2014 Stepped on a nerve did he? Whether you knew it or not a series of mistakes set up an almost unrecoverable situation. Think of it as a learning experience. We have all made major painful errors, some more expensive than others . I remember a finishing error on an expensive large custom job took me days and hundreds of dollar to fix. Now I make test boards for anything slightly unusual. No nerve stepped on. I appreciate any help. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wtnhighlander Posted June 27, 2014 Report Share Posted June 27, 2014 The MSDS for that product (Rustoleum kona) list a proprietary alkyd resin, which says 'varnish' to me. However, three days of dry time should be enough, given that the instructions say it can be top coated in one hour. Having recently had a similar experience with Cabot spar varnish in the spray can, I'd say that is your culprit. As Triple H stated, spar is not the best choice for an indoor finish. I used it on a sign meant for the outdoors, and after 24 hours, it was still tacky. No big deal in my application, but a real mess in yours. I would do some more research on the spray varnish and see if the instructions mention an special caveats about curing time. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.