new planer

[t-bone]

hi, well i got a ridgid planer three blade, just set it up not bad, have to try it once i get the jointer/planer set up. thats tommorw. i just hope i purched good equiment like i said iam new but i go on these forums for info. it's usally good advise.thanks and tell me with all honesty if i made right choices i have littl money all i really can aford lol

[nateswoodworks]

I don't personally have a Ridgid planer but I always hear good things about them around here. I do have a Ridgid 6" jointer that I have had for around 10yrs and have never had a problem. I think you did just fine and I am sure others will chime in as well.

Nate

[Rick LoDico]

I don't recall ever hearing anything bad about your new planer. I'm sure you'll get years of quality planing from it.

[t-bone]

I don't personally have a Ridgid planer but I always hear good things about them around here. I do have a Ridgid 6" jointer that I have had for around 10yrs and have never had a problem. I think you did just fine and I am sure others will chime in as well.

Nate

thanks for being honest with me i hope to work on the jointer today.

[t-bone]

I don't recall ever hearing anything bad about your new planer. I'm sure you'll get years of quality planing from it.

thanks, i hope to work on the jointer/planer (ridgid also) today hope all goes well lol

[petersb]

I have the Ridgid and I like it. Most have had good success with the Ridgid from what I have read.

[Alan Ambrose]

I have the Rigid 13" 3 blade planer...I believe it's model R4330, could be wrong. I received it for X-mas a couple years ago and have gone through quite a few sets of knives, thank goodness they're only $30.

I like it.

Very little snipe once you get the infeed and outfeed tables set, it's loud and some sort of dust collection is a must, but changing the knives is a snap. I use a regular 4mm allen key instead of the wrench they supplied. It's just easier to fit in the space over the cutter head, imho.

I do use the magnet they've supplied for blade changes and I like that a lot. Even a dull set of knives can have a sharp edge, trust me.

Tear out is a concern, especially with cherry and figured woods, but I think that's the norm unless you've got a spiral cutter head like a "Shelix" I think they're called.

Heh, I just picked up a gun rack for $6 at an estate auction that was made of 4/4 QS Zebrawood. I only wanted it for the wood =) Anyway, I put a brand new set of blades in before planing, and had some evil tear out. Sent it through the planer the other way, same thing. A little research later I learned that this is pretty common with this wood. Some things just are.

Light passes help and sending boards through at an angle if they're not too long both help. Angling the boards so the knives are not perpendicular to the wood fibers helps "shear" them. Though the longer the board, the less of an angle you can get. But some things are just better left to the drum sander...now to convince the wife we've got the room, and the funds =)

Save the digits!

-Al

[t-bone]

I have the Rigid 13" 3 blade planer...I believe it's model R4330, could be wrong. I received it for X-mas a couple years ago and have gone through quite a few sets of knives, thank goodness they're only $30.

I like it.

Very little snipe once you get the infeed and outfeed tables set, it's loud and some sort of dust collection is a must, but changing the knives is a snap. I use a regular 4mm allen key instead of the wrench they supplied. It's just easier to fit in the space over the cutter head, imho.

I do use the magnet they've supplied for blade changes and I like that a lot. Even a dull set of knives can have a sharp edge, trust me.

Tear out is a concern, especially with cherry and figured woods, but I think that's the norm unless you've got a spiral cutter head like a "Shelix" I think they're called.

Heh, I just picked up a gun rack for $6 at an estate auction that was made of 4/4 QS Zebrawood. I only wanted it for the wood =) Anyway, I put a brand new set of blades in before planing, and had some evil tear out. Sent it through the planer the other way, same thing. A little research later I learned that this is pretty common with this wood. Some things just are.

Light passes help and sending boards through at an angle if they're not too long both help. Angling the boards so the knives are not perpendicular to the wood fibers helps "shear" them. Though the longer the board, the less of an angle you can get. But some things are just better left to the drum sander...now to convince the wife we've got the room, and the funds =)

Save the digits!

-Al

thanks great info. what is 4/4 qs zebrawood like i said iam brandnew with this woodworking but i love a challenge by the way how are the brushers, how long do they last and can you get them at home depot or lowes, how much do they cost?

[Alan Ambrose]

thanks great info. what is 4/4 qs zebrawood like i said iam brandnew with this woodworking but i love a challenge by the way how are the brushers, how long do they last and can you get them at home depot or lowes, how much do they cost?

4/4 qs zebra wood is 1" thick (actually it's just over 3/4" but that qualifies) QS is quarter sawn. that's how the sawyer cut the log when it was cut into boards. It's a little harder to do and you get a little less board footage from your log, but the wood is more dimensionally stable and in some woods like zebra wood it gives you a little different view of the grain of the wood. Quarter sawn oak, both red and white, will yield "rays" that are typical, and desirable for "craftsman style" furniture, while in Zebra wood it gives the face of the board black and white stripes which are a result of seasonal changes as the tree grows. Quarter sawing also makes sycamore look very cool, gives it spots like a leopard that it looks a lot like Lacewood.

If you're still confused just google any of that, though I'm not guaranteeing any of the spelling

Save the digits!

-Al

[t-bone]

4/4 qs zebra wood is 1" thick (actually it's just over 3/4" but that qualifies) QS is quarter sawn. that's how the sawyer cut the log when it was cut into boards. It's a little harder to do and you get a little less board footage from your log, but the wood is more dimensionally stable and in some woods like zebra wood it gives you a little different view of the grain of the wood. Quarter sawn oak, both red and white, will yield "rays" that are typical, and desirable for "craftsman style" furniture, while in Zebra wood it gives the face of the board black and white stripes which are a result of seasonal changes as the tree grows. Quarter sawing also makes sycamore look very cool, gives it spots like a leopard that it looks a lot like Lacewood.

If you're still confused just google any of that, though I'm not guaranteeing any of the spelling

Save the digits!

-Al

ok, again great info. you should teach woodworking. do you ?