N00b-in-training Posted April 13, 2015 Report Share Posted April 13, 2015 I'm finally to the point of getting tools in place in the shop and have been stuck thinking about the position of my joiner and table saw. Thankfully I'm spent months planning and have listened to everyones advice regarding 'being mobile' in such a small space. Everything is on wheels and I'll be able to move things around easily in the future. I've been planning to layout the tablesaw, outfeed/assembly table, and jointer like this initially but mostly because it allows the dust collection ports (coming off the same 6" trunk line) to be close. The tablesaw's port is on the right side and the jointers is on the left. However, the more I think about it I might want it this way instead. I'll just have to figure out a different way to get the dust collection done. Anyone have specific advice other than "It depends on your workflow and personal feel"? haha. This is my first real shop and first round with big boy tools, just want to minimize rearranging in the future. Thanks!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Trip Posted April 13, 2015 Report Share Posted April 13, 2015 In general, you want to keep the left side of the TS free (xCut long stock)... ==>Starting shop layout thoughts The shop layout journey is sort of like the Voyage of the Beagle --- if you look at enough real-world shop layouts, you start noticing patterns… The patterns developed for a reason (sometimes even a good one).... If you keep your eyes (and mind) open, you start to figure-out why... Jointer on the right side of the tablesaw is a common pattern -- open space on the left side is also a common pattern… You can run two drops on the DC --- it's only money 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dwacker Posted April 13, 2015 Report Share Posted April 13, 2015 I think those setups are a waste of space. It makes a bunch of sense in the the big boy world when you have a slider. The RH side of a slider is just open space and a perfect spot for a jointer but makes no sense with a conventional tablesaw. I would want the left side of the saw wide open to walk around and the right side open for long cuts. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
estesbubba Posted April 13, 2015 Report Share Posted April 13, 2015 I did jointer on right and it has worked out well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Trip Posted April 13, 2015 Report Share Posted April 13, 2015 ==>I would want the left side of the saw wide open to walk around and the right side open for long cuts. Agreed... Assuming space is an issue --- so some compromise in layout is required -- otherwise, why bother with the question? Jointer on right is the lesser of two evils… My setup: jointer on the right -- but against a shop perimeter wall approximately eight feet from the end of the tablesaw... This leaves a six foot travel corridor between the saw and jointer… Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dwacker Posted April 13, 2015 Report Share Posted April 13, 2015 ==>I would want the left side of the saw wide open to walk around and the right side open for long cuts. Agreed... Assuming space is an issue --- so some compromise in layout is required -- otherwise, why bother with the question? Jointer on right is the lesser of two evils… My setup: jointer on the right -- but against a shop perimeter wall approximately eight feet from the end of the tablesaw... This leaves a six foot travel corridor between the saw and jointer… Also need to check jointer height. If its higher than the saw long boards on the right or left hit the jointer fence. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Trip Posted April 13, 2015 Report Share Posted April 13, 2015 You got me there... Yea, my J’s fence is a good 8 to 10 inches (300mm?) – way above the tablesaw table… So if it was tight to the outside right, it’d be an issue… Don’t know the height of the standard consumer jointer’s fence, but then you’ve got to add the mobile base --- so it’s still an issue… Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dwacker Posted April 13, 2015 Report Share Posted April 13, 2015 You got me there... Yea, my J’s fence is a good 8 to 10 inches (300mm?) – way above the tablesaw table… So if it was tight to the outside right, it’d be an issue… Don’t know the height of the standard consumer jointer’s fence, but then you’ve got to add the mobile base --- so it’s still an issue… Mine also about 10-12" over the saw + needs almost 30" of depth. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
N00b-in-training Posted April 13, 2015 Author Report Share Posted April 13, 2015 Thanks for all of the comments. The shop is 11.5' by 22'. Here is the layout as I'm planning it now. The outfeed/assembly table will be mobile and will be based on the Ultimate Tool Stand where I'll have one section that will be interchangeable for my "portable" tools - planer, miter saw, drill press, bench top mortiser, etc. All of the portable tools will be attached to a base plate that will also fit on the miter station in the back of the shop. and yes, the jointer is higher than the TS. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mick S Posted April 14, 2015 Report Share Posted April 14, 2015 My experience has always been that, as Trip said above, there are some recurring patterns that emerge in most shops. However, I would caution against setting anything in stone, such as electrical, air, DC pipe, etc., until you have made a few projects. It may be a pain having to mess with cords and hoses, but in the long run you'll most likely save a lot of frustration. I've rearranged my new shop at least 10 times in two months and just now have it where I can call the electrician to come set outlets. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dwacker Posted April 14, 2015 Report Share Posted April 14, 2015 My experience has always been that, as Trip said above, there are some recurring patterns that emerge in most shops. However, I would caution against setting anything in stone, such as electrical, air, DC pipe, etc., until you have made a few projects. It may be a pain having to mess with cords and hoses, but in the long run you'll most likely save a lot of frustration. I've rearranged my new shop at least 10 times in two months and just now have it where I can call the electrician to come set outlets. I'll be the contrarian. You have most every large shop piece already. Spend the time thinking it through and get it set up. I used blue tape on my floor and moved the tape outlines around a few times but other than that haven't moved a thing in my shop The dust collection, electrical and even the panel is wired for each specific machine requirement. I can understand things constantly changing if your buying things a piece at a time but not when you already have or know what will be in your shop. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Trip Posted April 14, 2015 Report Share Posted April 14, 2015 ==>I'll be the contrarian Be careful, we contrarians are on double secret probation... But also… You’ve got the experience to simply know what works, so the blue-tape technique works just fine…. The advice from micks is also spot-on: the final electric, air, DC, etc drops should remain flexible until paper layout hits real world projects… Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
estesbubba Posted April 14, 2015 Report Share Posted April 14, 2015 Here is what I did which worked out well: 1. Do an initial layout using a computer which you have done. 2. Arrange shop using that layout using machines. The blue tape will work but won't help with clearances. 3. Grab an 9' long board (or the longest you plan to work with) and simulate running it through every machine. Once you do this you'll realize everything that gets in the way. I skewed my jointer, planer, and drum sander slightly from parallel to the walls which made a big difference. Also analyze the ceiling frequently while arranging the machinery. Lights, garage door, pole for bachelor parties, etc. can cause your layout to not work well with the dust collection network. 4. Mark the machine footprints with chalk or blue tape before you move these around. Now mark your ceiling outlets and dust collection ducting and get to work. Milling boards for my Roubo top validated that my layout is pretty good. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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