Janello Posted April 14, 2015 Report Share Posted April 14, 2015 I've acquired a slightly used Jet JWP15-DX planer. I bought a Shelix cutter and bearings for it and will be doing the swap out soon. Since this machine is similar to the grizzly and PM I was wondering if I will need to replace any other seals when I rip apart the gear box. I got the gear box gasket, but don't know if I will need any other parts? Anything else to be aware of when doing the swap? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dwacker Posted April 14, 2015 Report Share Posted April 14, 2015 No just some oil and maybe a six pack of beer. Its really simple. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Janello Posted April 14, 2015 Author Report Share Posted April 14, 2015 Good news. I'm thinking you got that backwards though. Beer and maybe some oil. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eric. Posted April 14, 2015 Report Share Posted April 14, 2015 I just changed the head on my Grizzly. I didn't replace the gasket because they were out of stock for weeks to come but I did swap the bearings. It's fairly straight forward...I had an auto shop down the road press the new bearing into the gear case. Quite a few parts have to come off so keep track of them! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom Cancelleri Posted April 14, 2015 Report Share Posted April 14, 2015 Take pictures, mark things and keep track. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Janello Posted April 15, 2015 Author Report Share Posted April 15, 2015 Thanks for the heads up guys. I also printed the manual which has the exploded view of the gear box. Eric, did you need to make any adjustments to infeed/outfeed or chip breaker with the swap? One other note. I know the stock knives are dull, because they are causing slight tear out on oak, and I have only run short stock through this planer so far (maybe 18-24") but the back of the board lifts off the infeed table (rollers) about 1/8" when the first feed roller catches it, then it plops down flat before the knives catch. I turned the spring tension screws out a full turn and it eliminated it to some degree, but the tension screws are now slightly above the cast iron top surface (seemingly at the end of their usefulness). Just doesn't seem right to me to have to loosen them so much. Is that normal for a short board with this planer? Thoughts? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eric. Posted April 15, 2015 Report Share Posted April 15, 2015 I got lucky...no calibrations were required post-install. Test boards came out dead flat and even thickness end-to-end and side-to-side...aside from the usual and expected snipe. Sorry, no help there. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dwacker Posted April 15, 2015 Report Share Posted April 15, 2015 Yes you need to adjust the chip breaker. The OAD of the heads with knives are different. If you leave it wide you may get face tear out on wood that usually don't have any issues with tear out. As far as you tension screws go loosening is not the right adjustment. Sounds like you need to start from scratch and a head change would be a good time to do just that. First while your waiting to change out the head drop oil in the feed roller adjustment screws and let it wick for a few days. Change your head per the instructions before putting the cover back on adjust the chip breaker. Adjust your bed rollers (the ones in the cast iron table) level with the bed. Adjust you infeed and outfeed tables level with the bed as a starting point. Adjust your infeed and outfeed rollers screws level with the cast iron frame. Then turn them in evenly to about 5mm below the frame surface. Run a piece of semi soft wood like alder through the planer at a real light cut depth of about 1/64 or less. You should see faint serrated marks left by the feed rollers. These marks should be very faint. Now run the piece again at a normal planing depth, there should be no feed roller marks. If you don't get feed roller marks on the very light cut then drop the tension screws 1/2 a turn and try again. If you get feed roller marks on a normal depth cut then raise the screws 1/2 a turn. Now move to your infeed and outfeed. Right now they should be level from one end to another. Use a long level, jointed board or plywood ripped to check. Put a piece of cardboard or something about 3/16 thick on your planer bed then put the long straight edge back. Adjust the very end of the infeed and out feed until they just touch the straight edge, this will help with snipe. Thats it your done. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Janello Posted April 15, 2015 Author Report Share Posted April 15, 2015 Excellent tips there, thanks for sharing this. I was hoping to avoid the obvious, but the little extra time spent double checking everything is in order. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OldEdinSA Posted August 3, 2018 Report Share Posted August 3, 2018 may I ask what you paid for the JWP 15 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RichardA Posted August 3, 2018 Report Share Posted August 3, 2018 1 hour ago, OldEdinSA said: may I ask what you paid for the JWP 15 This thread is over 2 years old, and the op is not on site any more. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OldEdinSA Posted August 4, 2018 Report Share Posted August 4, 2018 thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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