Marking wood

[jimmobley]

What do you use to mark wood thats not a lead pencil. ie. grain direction, sides. Looks like some folks use something like caulk?

[mlehikoinen]

For laying out multiple pieces on a board, I use chalk to get the best use of the board (you can rub out the marks). When laying out final dimensions, I use a marking knife and an awl regardless of wood type. Pencils do get used, but usually to add graphite to my knife and awl marks to make them show up more clearly.

[jimmobley]

For laying out multiple pieces on a board, I use chalk to get the best use of the board (you can rub out the marks). When laying out final dimensions, I use a marking knife and an awl regardless of wood type. Pencils do get used, but usually to add graphite to my knife and awl marks to make them show up more clearly.

are you talking blackboard caulk?

[iSawitFirst]

I use different things according to the color of the wood. Currently I'm working with Sapele and find that a red pencil works best. Its also very easy to erase and doesn't get into the grain like carbon pencils.

[mlehikoinen]

are you talking blackboard caulk?

Yep. Blackboard chalk. I misspelled it as calk in my previous post

[PaulMarcel]

Recently, I've started using veneer tape; basically a white postage stamp that easily removes later, but you can write on it so nicely. Mostly used for labeling parts because I'm stupid and don't refresh chalk marks before they are completely faded away (I still use chalk for rough marks). Barely wet it and it comes off; scrapes off very easily, too.

[DaBear]

I like using blue masking tape, but same idea as Paul-Marcel..

[Domer]

It depends on why you are marking the wood.

I also use chalk particularly on walnut. I often use a sharpie if I can get to the mark to sand it off after making the cut. Pencil marks get lost on walnut.

I saw Sam Maloof use a sharpie for some of his work as well as chalk. I figure if it is good enough for Sam Maloof, it is good enough for me.

Domer

[Vic]

are you talking blackboard caulk?

Jim, not caulk..chalk. Caulk is for sealing gaps, chalk is the stuff teachers used to use on blackboards, before dry erase boards.

[Vic]

Up until things are down to final dimensions, I use pencil on light colored boards and found a white gel pen works great on things like black walnut. Once I get things dimensioned, I switch to writing in pen on blue tape.

[Mister Pants]

I tend to use pencil, and coloured pencils which I think are mostly wax and not graphite for darker woods. I also use blue tape and write on it if I've pre-finished a part. I'm thinking about moving to chalk for some stuff though.

BTW, graphite pencil marks clean up pretty well with acetone (just put some on a rag and rub them out) if that's a concern for using a regular pencil, and doesn't discolour the wood (at least in my experience).

[Bobby Slack]

If I am using my plunge saw from Festool with the guide rail, I use a pocket knife, so I can rest the guide rail against my mark. If I am making a line, I will use my Crown marking gauge, or a knife and then a small pencil line inside the "groove". I am about to receive my Tite Mark so that will change.

I don't trust my pencil and have plenty of pocket knives because of my backpacking and four wheel driving/camping hobby.

... Plus a Gaucho never goes to a barbecue without his own knife.

[Beechwood Chip]

Here's a question I've always wanted to ask - I'm sure there's an obvious answer.

I've seen people use special purpose marking knives... why not use a utility knife? Is it the 0.25 mm distance between the side of the knife and the cutting edge? Or is there some other reason?

[Mister Pants]

Here's a question I've always wanted to ask - I'm sure there's an obvious answer.

I've seen people use special purpose marking knives... why not use a utility knife? Is it the 0.25 mm distance between the side of the knife and the cutting edge? Or is there some other reason?

I think its a blade stiffness thing. I generally use an x-acto knife for a lot of that work, but the blade can wander a little with too much pressure. I think actual marking knives are a little stiffer and don't have that issue. Some are also only beveled one side so it can run right against your straight edge that a utility knife can't do.

I've heard good things about folk using a chip carving knife as a marking knife too though I've never used one.