Wood Vanity Top

[reepss]

We are in the process of renovating our master bathroom and really like the idea of wood counter tops. We have been considering Ipe, Jatoba, Cumaru, Teak. Are there any suggestions on the wood species, as well as the finish? My first thought on the finish was a couple of coats of Epiphanes. Here is a view of the bathroom plan.

[Bobby Slack]

Ipe is great wood and your tools will hate it. Jatoba is very similar to teak, almost the same performance at 25% the cost. On finishing, I am a freak about an exterior stain called "Sikkens" is used in log cabins and boats, so that tells you how good it performs with water.

My fater in law just gave me a wood and boat magazine issue and I noticed that in the back cover they are promoting sikkens. The main company is Akzo Nobel.

One last thing. If the end grain will not be seen, I would seal as best possible because that is where your water will get in the wood. Here is my latest. On all doors and gates I build, in the bottom stiles, I started using epoxy, this really seals it. (West Systems and I buy it from Jamestown Distributors).

[PaulMarcel]

The wood vanities I've made were water-proofed with CPES (clear penetrating epoxy sealer). Two coats and it is water-proof. The second coat will show a lot of brush marks, but don't sweat it. Let it cure then hit it with a P400 ROS. It'll then be ready for your final topcoat that you use to set the sheen. I've always used Arm-R-Seal Satin over it with success. It won't look like bar-top epoxy; not even close.

[reepss]

Does it result in a close to the wood finish? I like the look of Oiled wood, but I know that it will need more protection than that.

The wood vanities I've made were water-proofed with CPES (clear penetrating epoxy sealer). Two coats and it is water-proof. The second coat will show a lot of brush marks, but don't sweat it. Let it cure then hit it with a P400 ROS. It'll then be ready for your final topcoat that you use to set the sheen. I've always used Arm-R-Seal Satin over it with success. It won't look like bar-top epoxy; not even close.

[PaulMarcel]

Here's the latest one in Sapele. To me it is very close to the wood; it penetrates it. The sanding part is to get rid of brush marks that happen with somewhat gummy epoxy , but you get to the wood. In the picture you can't tell, but if you run your hand on it, you feel the surface of the wood, not glass.

[reepss]

Thanks. Do you have any other words of wisdom about building wood counter tops/vanity tops. The sinks and tub are planned to be undermount.

[Bobby Slack]

This looks fantastic. What do you say about using this for exterior applications as stain? How does it do with UV?

I am thinking of a bullet proof stain/finish easy to maintain for exterior. That is why I love Sikkens.

At the same time, I need to LISTEN for alternatives. During my sales years I met prospects who would never consider good alternatives and I try not to be too much that way.

The wood vanities I've made were water-proofed with CPES (clear penetrating epoxy sealer). Two coats and it is water-proof. The second coat will show a lot of brush marks, but don't sweat it. Let it cure then hit it with a P400 ROS. It'll then be ready for your final topcoat that you use to set the sheen. I've always used Arm-R-Seal Satin over it with success. It won't look like bar-top epoxy; not even close.

[PaulMarcel]

Sikkens is just a stain, correct? So it isn't a protective topcoat. You could still use Sikkens for color and CPES for waterproofing. It has no inherent UV protection so make your topcoat UV protective. Now it shouldn't breakdown due to UV, but since it isn't UV protective, your stain/wood may suffer. The stuff is predominately used on boats, which are typically in high-UV environments. It's also used to stabilize concrete, but that's another thread

For the vanity, mine's a Chinabowl (in onyx ) so the undermount wasn't a consideration. But sinks full of water are heavy so I'd add bracing to the underside of the vanity top around the sink. I added a lot of bracing to mine since, if you notice, the pie-shaped wedges are all basically end-grain to end-grain joints. Small pile of Dominos helps that. Naturally you need to do both sides of the vanity top. When you drill the holes for the faucets, hit the inside of those holes with CPES, too; slow once-in-awhile drips under the faucet mount can do damage if it soaks into the wood via the grain in the hole. For my Chinabowl, I had a hole additionally for the drain so I super sealed the inside since drops trapped in there between the bowl and the flange would never dry fast enough.

Really, not much to it. Since you have an undermount, make the sink cutout before you finish so you can seal those edges very well. Use a silicone sealer between the undermount sink and the vanity top. Oh, and post pictures

Meanwhile I found another picture loitering in my picasa account. This was during installation, but is a bit better at showing you the surface:

[Bobby Slack]

Paul-Marcel ... I am starting an exterior finish thread to discuss Sikkens.

[Mike John]

Currently I don’t have wood counter top in my bathroom, if I would intend to install this then I will follow the following: Seal by CPES (clean penetrating Epoxy sealer), then put a coat of varnish such as Epifanes. That process keep the wood sealed and protected very well, without any thick film.

Maryland wood floors