Making Loose Tenons for outdoor gate


Bobby Slack

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I've been toying with the idea of getting this variable width 3/8" roundover bit from Lee-Valley. I use a 3/8" spiral bit to make mortises so this would be perfect to make the sides of the tenon exactly match the mortise. It would work for tenons thicker than 3/8" as you'd just dial in the width and the top/bottom roundovers would be applied with the same radius as the mortising bit. Not that flipping a board when routing those tenons is all that difficult, but I don't have a real 3/8" roundover yet to do this so I've used either other radii or the 3/8"-ish radii of a multi-profile bit; both awkward.

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Paul-Marcel. I use a 1/2" up-spiral bit from CMT. The process is to drill with the router a big hole, full depth at one end, then creep in and drill a couple more. Repeat the process at the other end.

Next I get the router and route the whole length one way, go deeper ... come back ... and so on.

I use a 1/2" shank so the router bit has a higher success of staying true.

I could not understand the rest of your message. I am just dumb. I ripped the board to length, then cut 45 degrees on four corners and finished rounding the board with a block plane (of course Lie-Nielsen) and the tenon is round enough.

Did I get it closer to the ballpark?

I've been toying with the idea of getting this variable width 3/8" roundover bit from Lee-Valley. I use a 3/8" spiral bit to make mortises so this would be perfect to make the sides of the tenon exactly match the mortise. It would work for tenons thicker than 3/8" as you'd just dial in the width and the top/bottom roundovers would be applied with the same radius as the mortising bit. Not that flipping a board when routing those tenons is all that difficult, but I don't have a real 3/8" roundover yet to do this so I've used either other radii or the 3/8"-ish radii of a multi-profile bit; both awkward.

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In the bit Paul is citing. 3/8 should equal round over should equal a 3/8 bit. Normally, when you're using 1/4 inch bit, the round over to use is half that..3/8. At least, that's my understanding from DIY Woodworks. It's been a long time since I used a floating tenon for something and my memory is very unreliable.

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Actually, what I was saying is that I am really stupid when I get over-hungry. Basically disregard that reply; it's beyond jacked up. Note to self: while putting up conduit, don't use the top of the freezer as a storage place cuz later you'll put off eating too long cuz "well, the freezer is covered, I'll eat after I uncover it". Going inside for food :)

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  • 2 weeks later...

I looked at the beadlock website and probably if I would not have my setup this would be an approach to give a serious look.

When I first started Marc did not have this forum so is all his fault.

To come for a solution I consulted with the good folks of Festool and they set me up with a solution for mortise locks which I adapted for this application.

My approach was to use the Festool plexiglass template which I also use for mortise locks. and a 1/2" up-spiral router bit. The loose tenons were mad of quarter sawn white oak resawed on my table saw from 5/4 stock and finished of on my metabo benchtop 13" planer.

To round the edges of the loose tenons I cut a 45 degree cut with my table saw on all corners and finished the rounding with a block plane.

So there was my method. I think that this is the method I will stick for a while since I have the machines and accessories for a while.

To glue the gates together I am using West System epoxy and the filler is ... I think 404 or 405 which was the toughest one.

I like the Beadlock jig for such things. I don't care for Rockler, for various reasons, but I do like that little gadget. You can buy the premade sticks of mortise cheaper than you can spend time setting up and making your own.

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Hey guys,

There is a difference between radius and diameter. If you cut your mortises with a 3/8" diameter bit, the radius of the corners is only 3/16". If you want to make loose tenons to fit, you need to use a 3/16" roundover bit to make the tenons.

Think of it this way -- The diameter of the mortising bit is twice the radius of the roundover bit to match the mortise.

Mike

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Thank you Ronnie. Yes the Festool brand is dear ... in more ways than one. My approach was because it is flexible and can use this for many other things. I have one router permanently attached to this jig (OF 2000) and works like a champ.

I considered using a 3/8" bit and take two passes so I would have a tighter radius but this works fine since I am joining this with epoxy.

That is some nice work...

That jig makes some nice motises...But any thing with the name festtool on it cost a good chunk of change.

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I have done my share of mortise and tension work and I will tell you that, That is some clean cuts...

It looks real professional. And the 3/8s bit works well too. But my question about the bit......? Why didnt you just buy a round over bit. But since you arent going to be able to see the tenion part, I guess It really doesnt matter.

Nice project work......................... :):):)

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Ronnie. Thank you for your compliments. This was my first try.

I don't understand your comment about the round over bit. These loose tenons will be hidden, they are my "monster dominos"

I would consider running the tenon stock on the router table and cut to size. This was my first try. I also figured out that if I use 5/4 stock and resaw this on my table saw there is less waste.

My preference is to use 1/2" router bits with 1/2" shanks because of deflection and that is where the 3/8" router bit with a 1/2" shank could "give" ... may be not.

I have done my share of mortise and tension work and I will tell you that, That is some clean cuts...

It looks real professional. And the 3/8s bit works well too. But my question about the bit......? Why didnt you just buy a round over bit. But since you arent going to be able to see the tenion part, I guess It really doesnt matter.

Nice project work......................... :):):)

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  • 1 month later...

Oh boy! Long time since my last update on this. I stained the slats and machined dominos to install them to the rails (lower to middle) and ... Middle to top. So far so good. After the dry fit I will stain inside the dominos holes because the slats will be unglued to allow for movement across the grain.

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This looks awesome. I can't wait to see the finished product. Those tenons look huge to me, but I guess at 5' wide they need to be pretty structural.

For my 4' wide gate I just used standard large dominos and the epoxy like you... the thing looks as good as last year when I first glued it up.

http://iamwill.com/gate/

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Ready to glue up the stiles. This gate so far is perfectly square. I can't believe I did it. Material is cypress. All dominos in the vertical slats are unglued. I will glue the stiles to the rails with loose tenons (made of quarter sawn white oak) and use West Systems. On the dominos (vertical slats) I sealed the mortises and also the mahogany (for outdoor use) dominos with Sikkens (some of you know I use this all the time). My neighbor chose a different stain to match their home.

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post-1482-0-29926900-1297613685_thumb.jp

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Will. That is a fantastic gate you made.

This looks awesome. I can't wait to see the finished product. Those tenons look huge to me, but I guess at 5' wide they need to be pretty structural.

For my 4' wide gate I just used standard large dominos and the epoxy like you... the thing looks as good as last year when I first glued it up.

http://iamwill.com/gate/

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