Preferred Tool for Roundovers

[Eric.]

The one thing I haven't seen addressed is what kind of router bit you're using.  If it's a HF piece of junk, it was dull just about the instant it touched wood...if not before.  Dull bits will want to grab material much more than sharp ones.  Cheap router bits are more dangerous than people think.

Also I see difficult grain direction on the rounded over piece you pictured...you were going against the grain the entire time especially where you transition into the curve.  You can see evidence of that by the chatter marks...your bit was not happy.

A climb cut is certainly a more advanced technique and needs to be understood and done correctly to be done safely...but it's not difficult and that piece is definitely a candidate for a climb cut...with light passes...and a sharp, quality bit.

[Al Capwn]

5 hours ago, Eric. said:

The one thing I haven't seen addressed is what kind of router bit you're using.  If it's a HF piece of junk, it was dull just about the instant it touched wood...if not before.  Dull bits will want to grab material much more than sharp ones.  Cheap router bits are more dangerous than people think.

Also I see difficult grain direction on the rounded over piece you pictured...you were going against the grain the entire time especially where you transition into the curve.  You can see evidence of that by the chatter marks...your bit was not happy.

A climb cut is certainly a more advanced technique and needs to be understood and done correctly to be done safely...but it's not difficult and that piece is definitely a candidate for a climb cut...with light passes...and a sharp, quality bit.

Router in the table is a Ridgid somethin-er-other. Picked it up based on one of the wood magazine's "Best Value" award. However, the bit is indeed an inexpensive 1/4" shank Ryobi bit that I picked up in a set. So with the wacky grain direction, should this be more of a climb-cut operation? I.e. buy a nice Freud round over bit, chuck it in a small trim router, clamp the piece down and then take a bunch of very light passes in a climb cut?

[Eric.]

Yeah the type of router doesn't make any difference as long as it spins a bit at appropriate speed.  But those Ryobi bits are junk...I used to own some a long time ago so I speak with experience.  Try a better bit, first going the normal direction, and if you still get catching and tearout, try with a climb cut.  Multiple shallow passes are always better.

I would probably be more comfortable using the table with push blocks on small parts like that, but a small handheld would be okay too as long as the workpiece was nice and secure.

Sharp is the key...I have a feeling most of your issues are due to the cheap bit.

[Al Capwn]

1 minute ago, Eric. said:

Yeah the type of router doesn't make any difference as long as it spins a bit at appropriate speed.  But those Ryobi bits are junk...I used to own some a long time ago so I speak with experience.  Try a better bit, first going the normal direction, and if you still get catching and tearout, try with a climb cut.  Multiple shallow passes are always better.

I would probably be more comfortable using the table with push blocks on small parts like that, but a small handheld would be okay too as long as the workpiece was nice and secure.

Sharp is the key...I have a feeling most of your issues are due to the cheap bit.

Fair enough - I might give that a go. Any particular brand suggestions? Whiteside/Freud/other? So far I've seen a vote up for the Freud Quadra cut.

[Eric.]

Either of those, Whiteside or Freud.  Eagle America makes nice bits too.  Even MLCS would be better than those Ryobi's.  Ryobi bits are basically on par with HF bits.  Garbage.

[Al Capwn]

8 minutes ago, Eric. said:

Either of those, Whiteside or Freud.  Eagle America makes nice bits too.  Even MLCS would be better than those Ryobi's.  Ryobi bits are basically on par with HF bits.  Garbage.

Ok, good to know - final thought: What radius do you use most commonly and/or what would be most appropriate for a trim router?

[Guest]

10 minutes ago, Eric. said:

Either of those, Whiteside or Freud.  Eagle America makes nice bits too.  Even MLCS would be better than those Ryobi's.  Ryobi bits are basically on par with HF bits.  Garbage.

I own bits from whiteside, frued, eagle america and CMT and they all seem similar to me.  the quadracut are nice.  

[Eric.]

4 minutes ago, Al Capwn said:

Ok, good to know - final thought: What radius do you use most commonly and/or what would be most appropriate for a trim router?

I keep an 1/8" roundover and a chamfer bit permanently in a pair of trim routers just to break edges.  Aside from those two...it depends.  I don't tend to like heavy roundovers on finished pieces...I don't use the other sizes much unless it's part of a sculpting process.

[Tom King]

Whiteside is always my first choice. Whiteside makes the hign end bits for Eagle America, so those are good too.  The largest roundover bit I use on a trim router is 5/16", or at least the five I keep roundover bits on run from 1/16 to 5/16.  Anything larger I use in larger routers up to a 3/4" (usually for barn work) in a 7518.

[Al Capwn]

1 hour ago, Eric. said:

I keep an 1/8" roundover and a chamfer bit permanently in a pair of trim routers just to break edges.  Aside from those two...it depends.  I don't tend to like heavy roundovers on finished pieces...I don't use the other sizes much unless it's part of a sculpting process.

Ok...last question...I promise...maybe...Would 1/4" be too much bit for the wee trim router?

Looking at: http://www.woodcraft.com/product/828708/freud-34110-roundover-router-bit-14r-14sh.aspx for thicker material and http://www.woodcraft.com/product/24B92/whiteside-2000c-roundover-router-bit-14-sh-18-r-x-34-d-x-12-cl.aspx for easing edges.

8 minutes ago, Tom King said:

Whiteside is always my first choice. Whiteside makes the hign end bits for Eagle America, so those are good too.  The largest roundover bit I use on a trim router is 5/16", or at least the five I keep roundover bits on run from 1/16 to 5/16.  Anything larger I use in larger routers up to a 3/4" (usually for barn work) in a 7518.

I suppose that answers my first question - I presume that 1/4" wouldn't be too much trouble?

[Tom King]

1/4" is fine.  Just ease into the cut.  That Whiteside bit is like all of mine.  It will do just fine.  You can send it back to them for sharpening too, if it ever needs it.

[jerkface42one]

+1 for Whiteside router bits. I started picking some of them up at the beginning of the year for the bench build and some other shop projects and have been really impressed. The 1/2" spiral upcut bit has seen a TON of use and still seems as sharp as they day that I put it in the router. I've also had very good results with Freud and CMT bits as others have mentioned, but the CMT bits do seem to dull faster than the Whiteside bits. I haven't put enough time into the Freuds to really speak to those yet.

[wdwerker]

Keep your router bits clean and they will stay sharp much longer. Resin builds up on the bit and it gets hot which dulls it faster. I just use commercial saw blade cleaner and a stiff plastic brush. Remove bearings & clean them too, then give them a drop of oil ( I use Bostic bearing lube, it's Teflon based)

If I change a saw blade or router bit it gets checked for resin and cleaned at the first sign of it. Some of my bits are 25 -30 years old and still sharp.

[Al Capwn]

I will be sure to keep the bits clean. Here is the rasp putting in the rough profiles of the roundover. Then need to refine with some sandpaper. I still plan on picking up the router bits, but the rasp will do just fine on a small project like this.