Just Bob Posted May 31, 2016 Report Share Posted May 31, 2016 I am pretty sure I know the answer but thought I would ask. Has anybody successfully blended a new poly finish with an old? My wife wanted me to add a kitchen cabinet and make the butcher block counter grow. That part was easy, but now I have to refinish the counter top. My thought was to feather out the old poly then use a thinned coat for the first new finish. Google says no, but thought I would ask here. I think I am just trying to delay the inevitable, which is pulling the sink and refinish 23ft of counter. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trialbyfire Posted June 1, 2016 Report Share Posted June 1, 2016 I have never been able to do it with out seeing the transition. I've gone as far as trying 25% poly 75% mineral spirits for a few coats to try and blend it (oil based poly). I too tried to defy Google... It didn't work for me maybe someone else has successfully done this. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wtnhighlander Posted June 1, 2016 Report Share Posted June 1, 2016 I would probably install a decorative transition of contrasting wood before pulling the entire counter for a refinish. But I'm lazy. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
drzaius Posted June 1, 2016 Report Share Posted June 1, 2016 Rather than undo all the plumbing to pull the sink, could you just loosen things to raise the sink & faucet just enough to finish under the flange? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
toddclippinger Posted June 1, 2016 Report Share Posted June 1, 2016 It will always show unless you sand the whole thing. This is similar to trying to find a break point in refinishing a hardwood floor. It always looks different, even if the flooring isn't very old. If I was doing this for a client, the only way I would do it to make it look right is sand off the whole thing and finish it all together. Removing the sink and re-installing it would be easier than trying to tediously work around it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post Just Bob Posted June 1, 2016 Author Popular Post Report Share Posted June 1, 2016 I decided I didn't have much to loose so I gave I a shot. I feathered the old poly back a couple of inches with a 500 grit pad. I sanded until I could not feel the transition. Then took it back a couple of inches further with a 1000 grit. I thinned the poly 50/50 for the 1st coat. The transition line disappeared. I was able to get a total of 3 coats on it yesterday, and will do the final coat today. Pretty sure this was just dumb luck, but I don't care. I really did not want to pull that sink. I really hated putting it in, did not want to do it again. 21 minutes ago, Mike. said: Agreed. How did you join the new part to the old? A simple butt joint or did you weave it in somehow? With out replacing the entire section of counter, there was no way I was going to be able to match the top so I just bought a 4' piece, cut it to size and half lapped both pieces, mixed some epoxy, and called it a day. The joint is obvious but not horrible, If she's happy I am happy. @toddclippinger I completely agree. But right now I cannot find the transition line. That may change as the poly continues to cure. I will see what happens. Everybody, thanks for all the help! 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
toddclippinger Posted June 1, 2016 Report Share Posted June 1, 2016 I like your moxie! Certainly it was worth a shot and it worked out for you, that is pretty awesome! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rathi Posted March 23, 2022 Report Share Posted March 23, 2022 I know this is an old thread but wondering if you used thinned poly or not after the first coat. I recently messed up my newly refinished wood floor and I'm trying to do something like this so I don't have to recoat the whole thing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wtnhighlander Posted March 23, 2022 Report Share Posted March 23, 2022 @Just Bob still comes 'round pretty often. Maybe he will catch this Bat Signal and stop in with an answer. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rathi Posted March 23, 2022 Report Share Posted March 23, 2022 I hope so. There is remarkably little information about this particular problem that I was able to locate on Google. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Just Bob Posted March 23, 2022 Author Report Share Posted March 23, 2022 2 hours ago, rathi said: I know this is an old thread but wondering if you used thinned poly or not after the first coat. I recently messed up my newly refinished wood floor and I'm trying to do something like this so I don't have to recoat the whole thing. You do realize that this was 6yrs ago? I have trouble remembering yesterday! That said I am 95% sure that after the first coat I went to full strength. One caveat, I installed and finished the original counter top so I was able to use the exact same brand name and type of poly. Hopefully you will be able to do the same. If it matters I still can't find the transition line and the counter looks pretty darn good today. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rathi Posted March 26, 2022 Report Share Posted March 26, 2022 On 3/23/2022 at 12:14 AM, Just Bob said: You do realize that this was 6yrs ago? I have trouble remembering yesterday! That said I am 95% sure that after the first coat I went to full strength. One caveat, I installed and finished the original counter top so I was able to use the exact same brand name and type of poly. Hopefully you will be able to do the same. If it matters I still can't find the transition line and the counter looks pretty darn good today. Thanks Bob. Appreciate the input. Before looking into the right way of doing things I just sanded down the initial blemish and poly'd over it - feathering over the old poly adjacent to it. I don't have a seam line so much as a hazy area where there is now 6 coats of poly compared to the 3 coats surrounding it. Would rather have seam lines than this haze. So I'm going to try a modified version of what you did. I don't want to feather out too far because if it doesn't work it will just be a larger imperfection. So on on the side parallel to the planks I will not feather and just hope the space between the planks hides the seam. On the other sides where the seam would be perpendicular to the planks I will feather maybe an inch at 500 and see how that works. Will report back how it works out. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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