midtnwoodworker Posted July 7, 2016 Report Share Posted July 7, 2016 I know this has been covered before, but I need some assistance from those who know more about it than I do. My shop is a metal building on the outside and I have metal walls on the inside. There is about 6" of open space between the outside metal and the inside metal walls. I am at the point where I am ready to insulate it. I live in Tennessee and have heard that I should put vapor barrier between the inside wall and insulation? I will be building a new shop within the next few years, but I am tired of the heat and cold in my current shop. I really don't want to take the metal walls down on the inside and put vapor barrier or stud the walls to put batt insulation. I would like to just blow insulation between the two metal walls. The metal walls on the inside only go up about 9 ft and the rest is just going to get bubble radiant barrier. I know this is not the best way to do it, but I am lazy and want to get it done. Will this be ok for the short term? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tpt life Posted July 7, 2016 Report Share Posted July 7, 2016 Vapor barriers help keep condensation from saturating any of your building materials as humid heated air meets a cool surface. It is not likely to affect your metal siding in the short term. Are you planning on removing the interior metal? If yes, the Kraft facing on bats is a vapor barrier. If no, blown fiber is used in many homes that are ancient balloon frames. It will settle over time as some saturation occurs and a couple of things happen. As it compresses it is less efficient. As it compresses it settles away from the top of the wall and can use an occasional topping off. The metal itself can be a barrier if you want to loosen the laps and caulk the joint. It can be a little trickier at the top and bottom of the wall. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
estesbubba Posted July 7, 2016 Report Share Posted July 7, 2016 I insulated mine in no time using R-19 5'x41' rolls. I assembled a 10'x10' section on the floor and 2 people can lift it and attached to the posts in minutes. Put a poly vapor barrier over it then OSB and you have a nicely insulated shop with sturdy walls. Pics here: https://goo.gl/photos/PKMXJ2YF7WMCaAYn6 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
midtnwoodworker Posted July 7, 2016 Author Report Share Posted July 7, 2016 47 minutes ago, estesbubba said: I insulated mine in no time using R-19 5'x41' rolls. I assembled a 10'x10' section on the floor and 2 people can lift it and attached to the posts in minutes. Put a poly vapor barrier over it then OSB and you have a nicely insulated shop with sturdy walls. Pics here: https://goo.gl/photos/PKMXJ2YF7WMCaAYn6 I probably should do it this way, but it would mean taking the siding down on the inside and I just don't have the time to do that. If I had been smart I would have done this before the metal went up on the inside. 54 minutes ago, C Shaffer said: Are you planning on removing the interior metal? If yes, the Kraft facing on bats is a vapor barrier. If no, blown fiber is used in many homes that are ancient balloon frames. It will settle over time as some saturation occurs and a couple of things happen. As it compresses it is less efficient. As it compresses it settles away from the top of the wall and can use an occasional topping off. The metal itself can be a barrier if you want to loosen the laps and caulk the joint. It can be a little trickier at the top and bottom of the wall. I don't plan on removing the interior metal. What is a balloon frame? Will the condensation from lack of a vapor barrier be enough to ruin the insulation? So if I caulk the seam where each piece overlaps that will act as a barrier? Thank you for the information! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tpt life Posted July 7, 2016 Report Share Posted July 7, 2016 I lack the science to know exactly how ruined compacted insulation is. Balloon frames were sheeted inside and out with studs often running from basement to attic. My 1860 had 24' full 2"x4" studs. Newer construction styles require some fire break framing. In my old home a fire could "chimney" from basement to attic. This is dealt with often by blowing in fire resistant media. I am not sure how you plan to insulate without removing metal. Blowing in requires access usually gained by drilling holes. I'm not wanting to insult you, but think that removing the metal may feel like a big job just because of the intimidation of the project not started. If removal of the metal is necessary, Mikes way is certainly the most common no works well. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
midtnwoodworker Posted July 7, 2016 Author Report Share Posted July 7, 2016 I have access from the top. The metal only goes up 9 ft and the roof is 5-6 ft above that. I will have access from the top to just blow straight down. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
drzaius Posted July 7, 2016 Report Share Posted July 7, 2016 The metal will act as a great vapor barrier. As you said, just caulk the seems. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
midtnwoodworker Posted July 7, 2016 Author Report Share Posted July 7, 2016 Here is a basic layout of what I am working with. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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