JohnDi Posted January 1, 2017 Report Share Posted January 1, 2017 Building the bookcase and just finished the side panels. Even though I watched the videos numerous times, just realized Marc uses plywood for the tops because of wood movement concerns. I don't have the ply but do have plenty of hardwood (Sapele) that I could use. since the pieces are only about 5" wide, is it an absolute no no to use solid wood? Would pocket screws with no glue solve the problem? Walnut ply not in the budget at the moment☹️ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chet Posted January 1, 2017 Report Share Posted January 1, 2017 Are you referring to the tops of each section or the actual top of the whole bookcase. The actual top was made of solid wood and attached with two row of three screws each, one row was slotted (elongated) for wood movement. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JohnDi Posted January 2, 2017 Author Report Share Posted January 2, 2017 Sorry should have been more clear. I meant the tops of the individual units. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JosephThomas Posted January 2, 2017 Report Share Posted January 2, 2017 Solid wood for the individual tops in the same orientation as the design would move too much and cause problems. The best thing I can think of for getting around this would be a lot of trouble... you'd have to make each individual top a frame/panel assembly like the sides. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chet Posted January 2, 2017 Report Share Posted January 2, 2017 I don't know what kind of can of worms you would be opening using the sapele in place of the ply. Your top box has, by the plans one solid piece of ply and the other two have two 5 inch +/- strips one in the front and one in the back and then the interlocking piece mounted to the top of the box below. You need the interlock to be fairly snug or you boxes will slide back and forth on each other. If you use solid wood you are going to have to allow for movement which means that part of the year your boxes will have to much room to slide and the other part of the year they will fit properly. I don't know the situation in Philly but here I would have to leave a 1/16 inch gap in each interlock seam to allow for movement,thats an 1/8 inch total of slop. If it were me, I think I would play it safe and just wait until I can put the money away for the ply. Hopefully someone here can give you some ideas to use the material you have. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Coop Posted January 2, 2017 Report Share Posted January 2, 2017 Chet, could he not use the Sapele for the front and back pieces and use 2 small 1x2's as the male center strips, thus less movement? And attach the 5" front and back pieces as Mike suggested? That 3/4" walnut ply IS expensive! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JohnDi Posted January 2, 2017 Author Report Share Posted January 2, 2017 Thanks. I'll wait until I can get the ply. Really don't want to risk problems down the road. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chet Posted January 2, 2017 Report Share Posted January 2, 2017 14 hours ago, K Cooper said: Chet, could he not use the Sapele for the front and back pieces and use 2 small 1x2's as the male center strips, thus less movement? And attach the 5" front and back pieces as Mike suggested? That 3/4" walnut ply IS expensive! I would think it might. My problem is I am too big of chicken to try something that goes against traditional wisdom structurally. But that is just me, hopefully some one with more experience will chime in. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.